Rubicon Express 4.5" long arm......
04-07-2008, 09:08 AM
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Rubicon Express 4.5" long arm......
I am starting to install my long arm kit tomorrow and I was wondering how many guys installed this kit and aprox. how long did it take you?
04-07-2008, 10:55 AM
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It took me almost a week from start to finish working on it a little here and there after work and one of those days I spent about 8 hours on it.
Its definitely not a bang it out lift kit install.
You'll more then likely run into little issues during the install like I did.
Example....when I removed my stock trans cross member, the frame spread apart about 1/4", just enough that it was a pain in the a@$ to get the new one to line up with the bolt holes. I ended up using 3" heavy duty car tie down ratchet straps to pull the frame back together, so I could get the holes to line up.
Then there are the tedious things like cutting off the stock control arm mounts, I removed both upper and lower in the rear, and the front lowers, but I left the front uppers on since you cant see them and they dont get in the way.
You'll need a reamer to install the new drag link, and those reamers are NOT cheap! I ended up paying $60 for mine
Drilling all the holes in the frame for the rear brackets is pretty tricky, you have to remove the gas tank and the exhaust, and then they want you to weld two spacers into the frame so you dont crush the frame when tightening the bolts for the brackets. Needless to say, I ended up only using four through bolts per side and then I also welded the brackets to the frame, much easier IMO
I also relocated my rear shock mounts, beefed up the rear track bar bracket and modified my FT track bar, all during the install, so that took some time too.
Overall I couldnt be happier though, I LOVE the RE LA kit, it rides much nicer then the short arm kit I had before, and performs great offroad
Its definitely not a bang it out lift kit install.
You'll more then likely run into little issues during the install like I did.
Example....when I removed my stock trans cross member, the frame spread apart about 1/4", just enough that it was a pain in the a@$ to get the new one to line up with the bolt holes. I ended up using 3" heavy duty car tie down ratchet straps to pull the frame back together, so I could get the holes to line up.
Then there are the tedious things like cutting off the stock control arm mounts, I removed both upper and lower in the rear, and the front lowers, but I left the front uppers on since you cant see them and they dont get in the way.
You'll need a reamer to install the new drag link, and those reamers are NOT cheap! I ended up paying $60 for mine
Drilling all the holes in the frame for the rear brackets is pretty tricky, you have to remove the gas tank and the exhaust, and then they want you to weld two spacers into the frame so you dont crush the frame when tightening the bolts for the brackets. Needless to say, I ended up only using four through bolts per side and then I also welded the brackets to the frame, much easier IMO
I also relocated my rear shock mounts, beefed up the rear track bar bracket and modified my FT track bar, all during the install, so that took some time too.
Overall I couldnt be happier though, I LOVE the RE LA kit, it rides much nicer then the short arm kit I had before, and performs great offroad
04-07-2008, 03:15 PM
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Mine took about a week as well, working on it only a few hours at a time and every other day or so. If you're really motivated I think you could finish it in a weekend.
Eracer76 gave a great overall summary. The crossmember is a pain, I had the same problem and had to use a couple heavy duty ratchet straps to get the bolt holes to line up. This is typical, a shop I spoke with runs into this problem each time they install this lift.
Drilling the holes in the frame is the other pain in the ass. Make sure you have a nice drill and bits, then you should be ok. The frame rail is 2 layers thick where the rear holes are placed. Like Eracer, I also cheated a little bit by not drilling the holes in the bottom of the frame rails and added some welds. I personally think the rear arm brackets should have been completey designed to weld on.
I cursed the lift during the install, but now that it's on I'm really glad I did it myself. So far I'm very pleased with it. I was hesitant to purchase it because the Full Traction long arm was coming out, but now that I've seen pictures of the Full Traction kit I'm sure glad I went with the RE.
If you run into any problems during install feel free to shoot me an email!
Eracer76 gave a great overall summary. The crossmember is a pain, I had the same problem and had to use a couple heavy duty ratchet straps to get the bolt holes to line up. This is typical, a shop I spoke with runs into this problem each time they install this lift.
Drilling the holes in the frame is the other pain in the ass. Make sure you have a nice drill and bits, then you should be ok. The frame rail is 2 layers thick where the rear holes are placed. Like Eracer, I also cheated a little bit by not drilling the holes in the bottom of the frame rails and added some welds. I personally think the rear arm brackets should have been completey designed to weld on.
I cursed the lift during the install, but now that it's on I'm really glad I did it myself. So far I'm very pleased with it. I was hesitant to purchase it because the Full Traction long arm was coming out, but now that I've seen pictures of the Full Traction kit I'm sure glad I went with the RE.
If you run into any problems during install feel free to shoot me an email!
04-11-2008, 09:12 PM
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well....... the lift is in....... I kept my 2" spacers in for a little rake thinking that the kit will settle abit after some driving.
has anyone done this? and then maybe remove them for a ride comparison?
I figured with the bumper and winch I needed the spacers on the factory setup to get a level rake, but as you can see the front is a little higher.
do you rhink It would ride softer without?
Also is anyone running 37's with factory stabilizer?....... I notice alot of feedback on theSteering Wheel from factory stabilizer shock, at least I hope that is what the wheel feedback is from.
.
has anyone done this? and then maybe remove them for a ride comparison?
I figured with the bumper and winch I needed the spacers on the factory setup to get a level rake, but as you can see the front is a little higher.
do you rhink It would ride softer without?
Also is anyone running 37's with factory stabilizer?....... I notice alot of feedback on theSteering Wheel from factory stabilizer shock, at least I hope that is what the wheel feedback is from.
.
Last edited by o|||||||o EDMONTONTRADER; 04-11-2008 at 09:15 PM.
04-11-2008, 10:06 PM
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That....looks...killer. Well done. When I had a R.E. long arm on my TJ I replaced the stock stabilizer, you will probably want to do the same since you are running 37's Keep us updated as you put more miles on him.
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04-12-2008, 05:30 AM
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