raycn

I just swapped my ftont Dana 30 for a Dana 44 out of a Rubicon. A guy asked me if I swapped the front driveshaft as well because the Rubi was much better. Is there a difference? Should I swap?

Runewolf1973

As far as I'm aware (I'm not an expert though, lol) the driveshafts on the different models are the same and they are all plagued with the same problems. The only real upgrade as far as driveshafts would be going aftermarket.

suicideking

x2

It is the same on both models. If you lift to 2.5"+, may want to consider aftermarket. If not lifting, not necessary to change it unless you break it.

wxgs

Then there are the hundreds of threads of issues with driveline vibrations with aftermarket driveshafts and low gear ratios. Who wins

otservice

The people who get adjustable control arms to dial in their pinion angle win The problem is people think buying an aftermarket DS will fix the problem, but fail to realize now they HAVE to adjust the pinion angle. It's not just plug and play and because they don't do this they end up with vibrations or breaking a brand new DS, which is their own fault. The stock front DS has lasted us for almost 2 years now on a 4-5" lift with 35s getting beat up hard by my fiancee who 4x4s like she's racing a sports car hahaha The rear shaft failed by breaking apart at the tranny mount. Have a Coast driveshaft with rear upper adjustable control arms and everything is perfect now

wxgs

Honestly, all the people I have seen complaining about vibrations have full adjustable control arms, most 3.5+ lift. I've also seen articles where the writer usually says something, its either flightly steering with proper angle and no vibration, or stable-tight steering with vibration from the driveshaft. Can't post links since I never saved them, just what I remember.

I don't have either adjustable arms or an aftermarket driveshaft as I'm only in 2.5 lift. But i've stumbled upon people with these issues that can't seem to get both good steering and no vibrations. Its always one or the other with ratios like 5.13 or 5.38.
If you have first hand experience with low gear ratio and aftermarket driveshaft with adjustable arms with not flightly or loose steering then I guess its just people that can't dial the proper caster, or there is something else going on.

JohnnyQuik

The issue is that the aftermarket double cardan shafts are more sensitive to pinion angle than the stock rzeppa joint shafts. This means you have to dial back your caster angle to avoid vibrations which leads to flighty steering for some. The only solution is a Pro Rock 60 with the correct caster built in or at least that's what I'm telling the wife.

wxgs

Does it only apply to the dynatrac's 60s? I think I recall seeing a few with what I believe lift height requirements, one of them from teraflex.

otservice

Here in lies the problem. Everybody is told to get adj control arms to fix their castor, but if you put your castor back to stock then your pinion angle is out and you'll get vibrations. The only way to dial it in on a lifted vehicle so you have perfectly stable steering and perfect drive-line angles is to cut and re-weld the C's and control arms mounts in new positions. Most people don't do this unless they are really into custom vehicles though. The aftermarket axles ProRock etc are built with the lift in mind therefore all the mounts and C's are in the perfect or near perfect position so there is good steering with no vibrations due to pinion angle.

Too many people get the adj arms and dial in their castor and don't even think about their pinion angle. I see lots of bad info given out on the forums, it's no wonder people have bad vibrations and steering because they expect everything to be solved with one part and ride perfect afterwards

JohnnyQuik

No, pretty much any aftermarket axle has options for caster set up for 4"+ llift. It's really just moving control arm bracket and inner C mounting locations which some people do when building the stock axle or a junkyard axle build.