I'd pick up the springs if the price is right, but instead of those Rubi shocks...pick up some Rancho 9000's. They're perfect for you; You'll be able to adjust them to a stiffer setting like 6 or 7 for the logging roads, but also keep the wife happy by turning the knobs back down to 3 or 4 for ride comfort (obviously you'll need to play around with the settings and see what you like best). Rancho runs a rebate on them most of the time, and they have a 90 day risk-free satisfaction guarantee. Don't like them? Send em back.

 

Most people have to lift to accommodate larger tires. Are you wanting to do so just for the looks? Are you going to increase your tire size? If not, lifting it higher might look bit funny with factory tires (just my opinion). Is the factory set up enough to get you where you're going?

Here are some things to think about:
- if you lift it, even 2", you might want to consider some control arm brackets which will allow you to correct your caster....especially if it's your wife's DD.
- if you decide to add larger tires along the lines, then you start affecting your gearing performance and fuel economy.....and that is what usually starts you down the longer rabbit hole that builds tend to take.

A couple simple things that might help you out and not cost much:
- maybe look at some quick disconnects for your front sway bar which could help with some articulation which is useful even for the kind of wheelin you described.
- get some simple tire deflators as airing down on washboard type or pothole filled back roads will provide a more comfortable ride, and get you better traction when leaving the pavement.
- figure out some way to air those tires back up....even if just a small/cheap portable air compressor that clips to the battery.

If you do end up lifting it some, I agree that the Rancho 9000's would be a much better/appropriate option than factory recon shocks.

 

Thanks everyone for the help, really appreciate the responses so far. I think if I could swing it i would just go with the rancho shocks and suspension - that's probably the best long term move. That said, something has definitely changed over the past year with my ride quality and so I'd probably just be in the market right now for some cheaper take off parts to freshen it up as the shocks don't look like they are in great shape after 6 New England winters. Since I'm looking to eventually transition it to a more overland style vehicle than rock crawler, the opportunity to get better springs and a bit of a lift seems like it might be a good middle ground - though my guess is about a year from now i upgrade the shocks.

Since there is no such thing as a stupid question - what is a caster? Happy to do what i need to make sure it drives well for my wife.

Part of the reason I've avoided doing anything to my JKUS is that I didnt want to go down the rabbit hole - but I'm really interested in learning how to do the mechanical work myself (have a jack and jack stands) and finally have a garage. My JKUS did great up in Maine last summer, but I'm looking go deeper into the woods chasing brookies and salmon and would love a mild upgrade in the process.

Long term I would probably go with 33's, thinking about saving up to pick up a set of JKUR or even JLUR takeoffs as more hit the market, but probably wouldn't want to go any bigger due to the need to regear. I'll probably end up regearing eventually as the 3.21 feels pretty anemic after driving my wk2 trailhawk for the past 3 months (3.45s and zf 8 speed, but effectively the same engine). The pentastar actually has a lot of power if its set up properly - at least enough for me (thanks Daimler/MB).

I looked into doing disconnects last year, and while I think I can manage it, I'm going to wait a bit longer as I really don't have a ton of need for them yet (but I hope to).

 

Caster – in simplest explanation…..is the angle which the C’s are oriented. Your axle has 6* of caster built in to it, meaning that with the pinion angle at 0* (represented by green line on the picture), the C’s are angled backwards 6* from being perpendicular (caster being represented by the red line and perpendicular being the yellow line). This relationship is fixed, because the C’s are welded to the tubes in that manner. The blue arrow points to the caster....the difference between straight up/down and how much the C is angled backwards.




Now, the pinion is never going to be flat (that would be really hard on your front drive shaft), but the relationship is fixed. For every 1* the pinion is raised, caster is decreased by the same amount. From the factory, your jeep came with 4.2* caster (the pinion was angled up 1.8*, so caster was therefore 6* - 1.8* = 4.2*). As you lift a jeep, you are raising the pinion, which consequently is lowering the caster (the whole axle is rotating and the C’s on are becoming more and more perpendicular to the ground in the process). Lower caster will result in flightier steering and “bumpsteer” (or the feedback you get in the steering wheel when you hit bumps and pot holes). If you lift the jeep 2”, and you do nothing to correct the caster (rotate the axle back again), I’d guestimate your caster drops from 4.2* to 3.8* or so…give or take. This is a reading that you get when you get a vehicle aligned. Small changed in caster can have noticeable real world effects.

Anyhow, hopefully that was clear as mud. There are a few ways to change the caster, $100 control arm brackets being one of the most economical and efficient ways. If anyone mentions “cam bolts” or “camber bolts” to you, stop listening and forget about them. Technically they are a method, but not something you should consider on the jeep.

In regards to doing mechanical work. These things are easy to work on, and with simple tools. Besides a good jack and jack stands (safety first), and a place to work, you can do most work with the following:

- ½” drive torque wrench up to at least 150 ft lbs (several bolts you have are 125ft lb torque)
- Decent set of sockets, socket wrench, and extensions
- 24” breaker bar (comes in handy)
- Decent size crescent wrench
- Cheap harbor freight electric impact gun makes many jobs easier, but not required

The information is out there to walk you through doing everything.

 

those will work great for what your intended usage is and if they are the ones from houston Tx that is a screaming deal.

 

Incredibly clear and makes total sense - as you increase the arm of the triangle the angle decreases (or something like that, i took trig once haha).

A few years ago, when I worked at a company affiliated with Federal Mogul and Wagner Brakes, I quickly realized how much my face was being ripped off with brake jobs and went out and bought a good floor jack, two 3.5 ton jack stands and a set of craftsman auto sockets, wrenches and extensions with points on Amazon. Let's just say their really good brake pads don't cost a ton to make, but the markups along the distribution system are insane (100%+) and they end up costing multiples of what FM sees at the installer or retail level. Sounds like I need to invest in a few more tools! Need to look and see how many points I have today.

Thanks again for all your help guys, really appreciate the community and look forward to becoming a part of it

 

There are some decent youtube videos that demonstrate caster really well. Think about bicycle or motorcycle forks up front....and why they are angled so far back. The more caster, the better the ride; however, as with everything else, there are also trade offs and limitations. Like, you're obviously not going to be driving around with your pinion pointing towards the ground....or you'd have some serious drive shaft issues. LOL. But, there are aftermarket axles that have different amounts of caster built in, and allow you to run higher caster. That doesn't matter to your situation really.....but just saying.

Anyhow, good luck with the build....and have fun using the jeep!

 

I pulled the trigger on them - they are the ones from Houston