I'm saving money by using wheel spacers. Here in Canada land steel wheels are not as inexpensive as in the States. They seem to range from roughly $125-150 each. Putting 5 wheels into the $625- 750 range. Whereas 4 spidertrax spacers are $200. Plus I like the look of the stock Rubi rims. From what I've read on here in the last couple of months tons of people have had success running these spacers. I've only read of one guy who had a wheel come off within 200 miles of having them installed. And from my past experience of working in a shop it sounds to me that someone (prob a junior installer) didn't tighten down (prob hand tight) the nuts on the spacer then tightened down the wheel to the spacer. This would have given the guy the 200 miles he got before it wobbled loose.

Thanks though

 

Sorry to burst your bubble. But the Currie arms price hasn't been update to canadian price on the OME package. Its $1049 usd and over $1500 cad. Sorry dude

 

The Northridge folks are pretty good about package deals and JK Forum discounts. I'd suggest calling them instead of buying directly from the website. See what OME Long Travel kit they can put together for you before just adding individual parts to the basic kit. (not sure who you folks have up there in the Canadian shop, but David at the US shop is great to work with)

I'd also suggest that, if you are only going with one set of front CA's, you consider going with the lowers instead of the uppers. A bit more money, but as was mentioned earlier, the lowers give more adjustability. (either will let you adjust the caster, just a preference on the lowers...)

 

Yes I have been speaking to Stan at the Canadian store. I'm aware of the price difference but as mentioned we have spoken of different packages ( I just didn't want to get into the details of it on the thread as I was looking for advice and wanted to keep it as simple as possible).

I think that i will go with the OME long travel kit with the front lower and rear upper Curie's. I was told he'd do them for $280 a set so I will come in with all components at about $2300 (Math done in my head not to be considered accurate hehe ).

I can't say how much everyone's opinions have helped. specially Planman. Thanks! But i won't stop people if they have more to offer.

 

I think we're going to end up with the same lift

I just finished ordering (two days ago) from Northridge.ca:

OME coils & LT shocks
Extended brake lines front & rear
Extended bumpstops front & rear
Currie front upper control arms
Currie rear spring retainers
JKS adjustable trackbars front & rear
Spidertrax spacers

I'll probably run my siped BFG 32's for the winter (lotsa clearance for tire chains on icy hill climbs). I know...it won't look great, but I already know that those siped 32's work great for winter wheeling if you're aired down and you've got a bit of finesse. Yeah, yeah...the lockers help too.

Come spring, I'm hoping to have the funds for Toyo MT's, a rear bumper with tire carrier, and maybe even some new wheels. Hopefully, fall of 2010 will probably see some winter-oriented 35's and some sort of flat-fender mod to get clearance for tire chains...and new chains too.

 

I'm curious why your replacing the upper control arms. I'm not trying to give you grief I'm just in the process of researching why some replace the uppers and other the lowers. From what I've read yourself and WOL replaced the uppers with adjustable uppers. But i keep reading posts by others who advise to replace the lowers...? Can you explain your reasons? That might help me. Cause from what I see I may only need to replace the lowers or the uppers which is great news at this point as it will save me a lot of money vs replacing all eight or even vs. replacing one set in front and one set in the rear.

Thanks!

 

Not meaning to highjack someone's answer but both upper and lower control arms in the front allow for castor adjustment. The uppers are usually cheaper $ wise, but they don't allow for as much adjustment. Rear uppers are used to adjust pinion angle for aftermarket shafts. Hence most opt for front lowers for best castor adj. and rear uppers far pinion angle.

 

Great! So if I opt for the front lowers I'm making the better choice? I don't mind spending more on lowers since initially I was going to go with all eight. From what I've read the curries should be a decent choice then eh?

Another question raised then is, will lowers allow for more flex? What is a johnny joint and does the "johnny joint" turn in to allow for more flex? I realize this is probably search able but i might as well keep all my lift questions in my lift thread .

Thanks!

 

I imagine it would give a little more flex, johnny joints are supposed to. Don't know for sure if you'd be able to tell a big difference in flex without ALL of the arms, since the stock uppers and or lowers are still in place. But yeah, front lowers is the best route to go, IMO anyway. That's what I have, Teraflex though.

 

Oh missed part of your question, a johnny joint basically swivels at the attachment point, solid rubber bushings on stock arms don't swivel.