Rough country coils and sagging
#1
Rough country coils and sagging
So I'm new here and have done some searching but havent really found the answer I'm looking for I guess. I'm tossed between 2 lifts currently. A 3.5" JKS lift with fox shocks around $1100. Also the rough country 3.5" lift that's around $550. I'm big on you get what you pay for as being a diesel owner as well I know how things can be. However I had a xj that had a rough country lift on it when I bought it that got the piss beat out of it and it always road and drove very well. I know it the past though rough countrys coils have been known to sag a fair amount, so my question is have they changed this sagging coil problem?? Also just everyone's general thoughts on the 2 brands. Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Tsc_00; 03-07-2020 at 12:13 PM.
#2
Between the two brands, go JKS. Look around for a few minutes and you will find quite a few threads about that particular RC lift. It is dirt cheap for a reason...
If you are open to other suggestions, check out MetalCloak.
If you are open to other suggestions, check out MetalCloak.
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Tsc_00 (03-07-2020)
#3
For our JKs, RC is a crap lift mainly as to how the company tried to address steering geometry compared to everyone else. The ole pickup truck model of using drop pitman arms is a terrible solution on the JK, and you will find post after post after post on here of people with that 3.5" RC lift looking for help cuz their jeep drives like crap. I can't speak a ton to the JKS lift specifically. It wouldn't be my preferred brand, but you can sure do worse.
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Tsc_00 (03-08-2020)
#4
For our JKs, RC is a crap lift mainly as to how the company tried to address steering geometry compared to everyone else. The ole pickup truck model of using drop pitman arms is a terrible solution on the JK, and you will find post after post after post on here of people with that 3.5" RC lift looking for help cuz their jeep drives like crap. I can't speak a ton to the JKS lift specifically. It wouldn't be my preferred brand, but you can sure do worse.
#5
Look into metal cloak lifts they are one of the best out there. What size tires are you going to be running? You don't need as much lift to run bigger tires on the JK like you did in the past.most people can get by fine with a 2-2.5" lift and 35" tires. In fact you can run 35's with no lift and flat fenders with proper wheel back spacing.
The following users liked this post:
Tsc_00 (03-08-2020)
#6
Look into metal cloak lifts they are one of the best out there. What size tires are you going to be running? You don't need as much lift to run bigger tires on the JK like you did in the past.most people can get by fine with a 2-2.5" lift and 35" tires. In fact you can run 35's with no lift and flat fenders with proper wheel back spacing.
#7
For the d30, do you have some ideas of what you want to end up with or how long it will be before you swap? And then there is gearing. Will whatever you go to for 35's still be ok for 37's? Or will you gear for the 37's now and live with high rpm's on the 35's? How about lockers/limiteds? Makes sense to put them in with the gears rather than paying all that labor again just for the traction. Anyway, just a suggestion to think about all of it now, before you start. It will likely save you a lot of money and a lot of hassle later on.
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#8
It's more than just the axle. A quality coil will get you more actual height than indicated, (unless you are loading it down with armor and gear). With MC 3.5" coils, my light 4door is sitting at 4.5". That should have you thinking about driveshafts and a draglink flip in addition to the lift, along with considerations for upgrades to beefier steering components. And once you go from 35 to 37, you might be needing another new set of rims with lower backspace, or at least adding wheel adapters to move them out far enough.
For the d30, do you have some ideas of what you want to end up with or how long it will be before you swap? And then there is gearing. Will whatever you go to for 35's still be ok for 37's? Or will you gear for the 37's now and live with high rpm's on the 35's? How about lockers/limiteds? Makes sense to put them in with the gears rather than paying all that labor again just for the traction. Anyway, just a suggestion to think about all of it now, before you start. It will likely save you a lot of money and a lot of hassle later on.
For the d30, do you have some ideas of what you want to end up with or how long it will be before you swap? And then there is gearing. Will whatever you go to for 35's still be ok for 37's? Or will you gear for the 37's now and live with high rpm's on the 35's? How about lockers/limiteds? Makes sense to put them in with the gears rather than paying all that labor again just for the traction. Anyway, just a suggestion to think about all of it now, before you start. It will likely save you a lot of money and a lot of hassle later on.
#9
Stay away from the lift shops in VA Beach and out Pungo way. They'll sell anything but when it comes to full adjustment and enjoying it, different story. The only one I'd consider would be ETA and that's only if you do what the owner did with his JKU. YesHe's got pictures of it to give you an idea of what/ how to do yours. You could talk to Robbie there and see if he can pull up pics for you.
#10
Yeah Virginia would be a little far for me. I'm in Maryland! I'm highly debating on just doing it myself in the garage, it's just finding the time to do it as I work so much and dont get many weekends off. Plus we are trying to get our house on the market end of this month so we can build so my time is limited lol