MELONHED

I'm about to pull the trigger on the Rough Country 2.5" Budget Boost but need some feedback on some things first. I apologize if these are repeat questions but, haven't found the answers I'm looking for when I searched.

I've got a Rubicon daily driver. I plan on getting 33" tires. Wheel it 1-2 times a month during the warmer months, mostly easy to moderate trails. I'm poor so I don't want to spend a lot of money:

1. Do I really need the 2.2 shocks with a Rubicon?

2. Do I need to buy bump stops, brake line extensions, etc. or anything else?

3. If I do the occasional moderate to difficult trail, will it be o.k.?

4. Are you guys happy with this lift?

Any feedback you guys can give would be great.

Thanks.

TEEJ

For what you describe, a stock rubi will work with no mods at all.

So, if you are doing it to do what you describe, no, you don't need to do it.

If you WANT to do it, because you just want a lifted JK...sure, go ahead...that's OK too.

A simple 1" BL and a set of 1.5" wheel spacers would be all you'd need for even aggressive 33 x 12.5's.

If you were on more challenging trails, say rock crawling, etc...then the extra wheel travel would be great. For dirt roads, no its fine.

If going for rocks, then the longer shocks are a good idea. I'd make sure they fixed the QA/QC issues where those shocks were being damaged/arriving broken, or whatever...as that would be a concern. If they just had a bad batch, great, otherwise, maybe look elsewhere.

If doing rocks, I'd also strongly advise replacing the stock "skid plates" with real ones (3/16" thick, etc...) as its a DD, and you do not want to tear up your underbelly and miss work the next day, etc...it could happen.

The Rubi shocks are the same length as the other model's shocks, but they are state of the art monotube shocks, instead of conventional plain 'ol twin tubers.



For more travel...longer is better.

Find out what the shocks compress to...as for 33's, you do NOT need uptravel-robbing bumpstop extensions...if the shocks compress down to 16" or so, IIRC, you're good to go.

theosdad

I am in the exact situation melonhead. I have heard good things about the lift. I hear the bushings on the shocks had some issues, but I think that was fixed already. I would like more info myself

MELONHED

Thanks TEEJ for the info.

So whats the deal with springs falling out at full articulation. Is that only when your shock travel exceeds the springs travel? Sorry again if this is repeat info.

Now I'm wondering if the Full Traction 2" Econo lift ($125) would be the better choice if I'm keeping the stock shocks. Anyone have this lift?

Thanks.

Mark Doiron

I don't know what the latest status on this issue is, but I've read complaints here that a number of shock manufacturers were having the same problem. I've read it was related to Daystar bushings. Not certain that it's been worked out completely, yet. I do have the RC 2.2 shocks and have had no issues--but got them before all of these broken bushing complaints started surfacing.

2drREDROCK

I really like the Fabtech
I would recommend this kit to anyone,it has everything you would need
On and off roading is great and have to problems but I haven't done any rock crawling.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16119_050.htm

Its a little expensive but I believe its worth it

marcoseddi

what exactly do you benifiet by the lift what are the advantages and disadvantages

Thanks

TEEJ

If you are keeping the stock shocks...and merely want height from the coil spacers...all of the BB's are pretty much the same, except the TerraFlex BB.

And even for that, the only performance difference you'd see is that the TF lifts all four corners 2.5"....

...and the others lift the front 2- 2.5", and the rear about 1.75"...so that the front ends up level with the rear, instead of the nose down posture that Jeep designed into the suspension geometry to improve ride and handling, especially under load, hill climbing, etc.

Again...for fitting larger diameter tires, which are the ONLY way to raise your TOTAL ground clearance, I'd do a BODY LIFT before I'd do a suspension lift. (ONLY taller tires lift the AXLES AND DIFFS - which act as anchors if they hit anything...)

The BL never sags, doesn't lose tire clearance when you go over bumps/stuff the suspension, etc...it doesn't affect the steering, ride, handling, etc...it just picks the wheel wells up out of the way of the tires.



If you really want BB, add a BL to it...get the best of both worlds. (Some people remove the fenders, or replace them with aftermarket ones with more well room too...)

-------

Remember, if you lift your JK with a suspension lift, be it coil spacers, longer/higher rate coils, etc...you are using up some of your available down travel (What you use to let your tire reach the ground...) to get that extra height...you are essentially pre-drooping the suspension.

If you keep the stock shocks, it "Will Work"....but, it will have very little down travel left.

If you have an open differential (No Locker)...when a tire can't reach the ground...it spins in the air.

Open diffs transfer the torque to the faster tire...the one with no traction....so the tire ON the ground, WITH traction...just sits there, laughing at you ...NOT helping you move.

So - short shocks tend to get you stuck more, as they can't reach the ground on uneven terrain.

So - if I AM pre-drooping my suspension...I'D want longer shocks to compensate.

Hope that helps a bit.

Locker John

i have the rc 2.2 lft and it is awsome the best bb for the money out there it works well i have lightly wheeled it and put it to its limm\its and it is awsome if you need pics of the flex or more info im me

TEEJ

Hey - could you measure the center of eye to eye shock length for the full droop, and if you can, at full stuff? (For the 2.2 shocks)



I can't seem to find specs for it.