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Rough Country 2.5" BB problems

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Old 06-19-2008 | 07:50 AM
  #41  
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From: Montrose,PA
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I have no idea why I got more than the 2.5" of lift.
Yes the pucks are correct and I've been driving the crap out of it
for the past week and half.
After I rotated the tire I rechecked everything to make sure it was
tight, and everything looked good.
If I get a chance I'll shoot a couple pics.
There's a ton of room right now between the 32" and fenders, aaaa ton!
When everyone was installing them did you have any issues getting the springs out? When I pulled the springs out of mine it was a little bit of an issue getting them out and I was up on jack stands full dropped.
Then getting them back in wasn't a treat either.
Let me know....thanks!
HEFTY
Old 06-20-2008 | 11:10 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by HEFTY
When everyone was installing them did you have any issues getting the springs out? When I pulled the springs out of mine it was a little bit of an issue getting them out and I was up on jack stands full dropped.
Then getting them back in wasn't a treat either.
Let me know....thanks!
HEFTY
I think it helped me to jack up the end opposite to the one I was working on. That seemed to cause the one I was working on to droop far enough.
Old 06-23-2008 | 09:56 AM
  #43  
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I installed mine yesterday and on the test drive it did feel stiff in the steering but no complaints here.
Old 06-23-2008 | 10:56 AM
  #44  
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monkey i resemble that remark we was thinking about RC setup but im getting scared now. death wobbles, wondering, rubbing etc. should i be
Old 10-22-2008 | 12:51 AM
  #45  
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From: Collinsville, OK
Default Realized lift

2-door (lighter vehicle) should get more lift out of bb lift (not specific to 2 or 4 door) than heavier 4- door. Look at pics of 2&4 door w/ bb lift.
Old 10-22-2008 | 02:28 AM
  #46  
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From: wantagh,ny
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there is no way to get more than the amount of lift out of a bb lift unless you didnt turn the coil springs to the right possition , so i would check that out , unless you stacked more than just the original lift pucks , as for anyone being afraid of the lift its great , any monkey can install it with just hand tools and , if you have any death wobble , either your wheels arent balanced or you need to tight up everything , the lift is very simple Click image for larger version

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Old 10-22-2008 | 06:37 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by lijeepguy
...unless you didnt turn the coil springs to the right possition...
I have a question about this...I noticed in the instructions it said to rotate the springs until you hit the "stops" for both front and back coils. I did this on the front no problem, but didn't see/feel any stops on back. Is there something I missed?




Last edited by hntndawg; 10-22-2008 at 08:09 AM.
Old 10-22-2008 | 08:02 AM
  #48  
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From: wantagh,ny
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i dont remember there being anything to turn into on the rear just the front, did you bolt the metal ring up to the chasis it was a lil bit of a pain in the a$$ but it should be metal to metal , then the isolator then the spring , , but you seriously cannot get more than the spacer s original lift out of it , its not springs that would settle down the line its just a spacer, make sure everything is tight then drive for a week or so and get back under your jeep and retorque it all again , good luck
Old 10-22-2008 | 11:26 AM
  #49  
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No problems at all on 35's myself.

Did rear then front. Had each end entirely in the air supported on frame rails for install. Torqued everything in the air except front swaybar - as per instructions. And with an actual torque wrench...

It handles better than stock on the roads now.

Maybe jack in up on the rails and loosen then re-torque.



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