Research the specific coils vs your vehicle weight/build. If you are fairly stock, some of the 2.5" coils will get you up in the 3.5" range. And some of the 3.5" coils will get you closer to 5". Once you are up at that height, you will be pricing out a new front shaft, and a drag link flip, and a ...

Control arms - tilt the axles to adjust the caster/pinion. Depending on the height you end up at, a single set of front arms (or brackets) may be all you need. Since you have a 4door, the rear driveshaft should be fine, so you should be ok with stock arms. Unless you just really want to spend that money, consider waiting on the other 3 sets. (but again, depending on actual lift height)

Trackbars/brackets - Axle centering is a good thing. A rear bracket should be fine, but you'll want an adjustable trackbar up front. Also depending on the height you end up at, a rear raised trackbar bracket will be a good thing. This raises the axle end of the trackbar to help with roll center, as well as shifting the axle. Up front, if you go over 3" or so, you can consider a draglink flip, which will also raise that trackbar.

Bumpstops - depends on lift height, tire size, disconnecting, whatever else. They keep the tires from ripping the flares off and the shocks/coils from over-compressing. hard to say what you will need, so just use whatever comes in the kit unless you find a reason to mess with them.

Swaybars - the rule of thumb is that you want them roughly parallel to the frame/ground. Some kits come with longer rear links, then you move the stock rears up front. Or you can get adjustable links. Or disconnects. Lift height and shock length will be factored into the angle you end up with.

You will also want to read through a few dozen axle build-up threads for info on gusstes, sleeves, trusses, etc.

 

I believe I have decided on the Metalcloak Game Changer ARB 3.5 (including exhaust spacer) with Lund flat fenders all sitting on top of Fuel "Krank" wheels (4.5" backspacing) wrapped in 37x12.5 MTRs.

I guess doing both driveshafts right away is good insurance, in case either were to come to rest on a rock.

Being I will wheel rarely, I believe I can leave the stock axels in for a while.

Will likely go to 4.88s as well.

 

I've got 2.5 x-factor stock fenders and run 35's. Flat fenders I can 37's.

 

4.5" backspace is the general recommendation of 35's. For 37's, a 3.5" bs is more common. Plan on wheel spacers ...

 

your jeep looks perfect... I have a firecracker red on order and will be at my dealer tomorrow. I am going RK 2.5 xfactor also. Is your kit the new 2dr specific triple rate springs? and how do you like the height and ride? Thanks

 

No I got a heck of a deal just before they went to triple rates. I have no clue if the hype of the triple rate is worth it or not, but on the 35's at 28 psi, and fox 2.0 shocks it rides really nice, an it's easy to over drive the Jeep off road. I know this because I started slashing tires because I was going to fast for the tires to take the abuse. Thus the reason for the Terra Graps.

 

Unfortunately none of the wheels I like come in less than 4.5
Do spacers accomplish the EXACT same thing with no adverse effects?

 

They need to be installed properly. Another set of bolts to maintain. There are plenty of threads to look through on spacers, the few negative reports you will find are generally traced back to improper installation or lack of maintenance.

As far as added stress goes, it should be the same as rims with equivalent backspacing.