Originally Posted by planman

Based on this, you could do:

On a budget: 2.5" BB lift from Teraflex, with Bilstein shocks, and find a pair of front take-off 4 door Rubicon hard top springs, and add a pair of front JKS front quick disconnect sway bar links.

The reason why is that the springs from a 4 dr Rubicon hard top are stiffer and can handle the weight of the steel front bumper and winch well. Plus, you don't need significant spring travel.


Using the whole $1,000, plus a little: An AEV 2.5" Dual Sport XT lift with the addition of front JKS quick disconnect sway bar links.

The reason for this is that the spring and shock combination is designed for a stiffer, sportier ride, and to be able to handle the added weight of heavy steel bumpers.


Now, you wouldn't be unhappy with a 2.5" lift from Rock Krawler or Metalcoak, but for what you have described as your use and preferences, I'd do what I listed above.

My use is different than yours, and I would run a Rock Krawler or Metal Cloak with as long travel shocks as the springs would allow.


Given that you have a 2011, 2 door automatic, if you stay at a 2.5" lift without running super long shocks, you will not need to upgrade your driveshafts or relocate your rear lower coil perches.

Since you have a 2011 automatic, when you regear, you will want to run 5.13s when you upgrade to 35s. That will put you at about 2450 engine rpm at 70 mph and just under 2800 engine rpm at 80 mph. With the added weight and rolling resistance of the 35s, you will need around 2500 rpm at 70 mph and 2800 rpm at 80 mph to reduce transmission downshifting. Transmission downshifting is what kills fuel economy.

By comparison, if you installed 4.56s with 35s, you would not even turn 2200 rpm at 70 mph and would still be under 2500 rpm at 80 mph.

The 3.8L engine produces less than 90 rear wheel horsepower at 2500 rpm. That simply isn't enough horsepower to handle the wind resistance and added weight of larger tires at 80 mph without regular transmission downshifting.

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve913

Thank you for all of this information. It makes perfect sense. I didnt realize the 3.8L produced such low rear wheel horsepower.

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve913

Im kind of leaning towards rock krawler. They seem to have a pretty good reputation.

Originally Posted by planman

You've told us that your budget is about $1,000 for a lift.

How much is it for tires/wheels, regearing, a tuner, bumpers, armor, and other modifications during the next 12 months?

How will you drive your jeep on and off road?

How many on road miles will you do per year, what kind (commuting vs. long distances, speeds, etc.)?

What kind and frequency of off road driving will you do per year (expedition, rock crawling, forest service roads, mud, snow, high speed whoops, sand, etc.)?

What size tires do you plan to run?

How heavy will your jeep be on and off road?

Will you tow trailers or haul heavy loads?

Is your preference a stiffer, sportier handling like a Subaru STI or a softer, big boat type handling like an old Buick?

Will you do the installs yourself or pay for a shop to do them?

Originally Posted by mbpike

What do you think for me, I ask because so far wading through the forum and talking to local shops I still can't figure out what I need. I thought I needed an RK 2.5 until I looked at this thread and saw your post. So here it goes as far as what I'll use the JKU for.

-I'd like to keep a lift around $1000 but would spend up to $1500 for the right product.
-I don't take the jeep on long road trips, usually an hour or two from home is max. If I want to wheel further than that I will trailer it. When I do drive, I drive normal in town (speed limits and all) but on the interstate I run it up to around 80.
-It will be used for a daily commute about 40 miles each way on the interstate for the next 4.5 years till my wife gets out of Pharmacy School.I'd imagine about 15K to 20K miles a year would be what we put on it.
-The jeep will be used for expedition style driving, forrest roads, and trips to deer camp, I'd like the ability to handle some rocks, but I in no way want a dedicated rock crawler, I'd just like the ability to make it over a reasonable amount of stuff. We also get a little snow and ice each winter. And I've been known to go down some muddy roads, but I normally just hold off since cleaning mud is such a PITA
-I'm wanting to run 34's until my wife gets out of school, then it will be a 4th vehicle, so I would want to put 35 or 37 on it, have not really decided.
-I don't know what the weight will be, after the lift the next project will be front / rear bumpers and a winch.
-I will not tow any trailers with it, I have a full sized pick up for that.
-I prefer a stiffer ride, I like a responsive steering wheel
-I will install it myself more than likely, I've got a few mechanic friends that have offered to help me in their shops after business hours.

Any sense of direction you could give me would be a great help, thanks for your time.

Originally Posted by mbpike

Thank you for the advice, I really do appreciate it. I move a re gear up the list a little. Is there any reason to go 4.53 over say 4.88? Seem that most people rave about the 4.88. Would you also suggest if I went with AEV geometry correction brackets. I also guess something like JKS quick discos would be personal preference.

Originally Posted by planman

You are welcome.

4.88s would be my choice, but I don't drive the interstate close to sea level at 80+ mph with a '12+ automatic everyday. If I did, I'd want 4.56s.

If you usually stay around 70-75, then 4.88s would be preferred because they would be better in town and off road.

If you had an 07-11 automatic, you'd want 5.13s. The transmission ratio is that much taller in 4th gear compared to the '12+ 5th gear.

The AEV brackets fit your circumstance, and yes, I prefer JKS front swaybar disconnects.

Originally Posted by TeraFlex

I would be interested in hearing from those that think their coils have sagged.

Joe @ TeraFlex

Originally Posted by planman

I'd throw a Teraflex 2.5" BB on it with Bilstein shocks or an AEV 2.5" lift and run 35s on that until I could afford to regear to 4.56s and add TrueTrac limited slips front/rear.

I would prioritize regearing and the TrueTracs over the bumper and winch because of the miles, snow, ice, and speed.

If you do the BB to be able to regear sooner, in the future you can sell the coil spacers (keeping the rest of the components) when you add a winch and front steel bumper, and upgrade at least your front springs at that time.

I'd run a all terrain/mud terrain cross tire like a Goodyear Duratrac, Toyo AT II, Mickey Thompson ATZ P3, etc. in order to get higher miles and better fuel economy.

I'd probably stop at 35s and not do 37s.

I'd build light for better fuel economy. Any steel bumper would be a lighter one.