Rock Krawler vs. Tera flex vs. Metal cloak
#31
Thanks. Of course.
It is important because some people hate the stiffness of an STI or a Honda S2000 and some people hate the sloppy feel of a 1970s era Buick.
Some people love the stiffness of an AEV lift on a light rig (AEV lifts are designed to handle the weight of AEV bumpers).
Some people hate the stiffness and want ubber soft Skyjacker Hydro shocks on really soft spring rate springs.
Some people install lifts incorrectly and end up with rubber bushings pre-loaded/twisted/binding to the wrong ride height, which results in a jittery, poor ride. Then, they blame their installer error on the lift manufacturer.
It is important because some people hate the stiffness of an STI or a Honda S2000 and some people hate the sloppy feel of a 1970s era Buick.
Some people love the stiffness of an AEV lift on a light rig (AEV lifts are designed to handle the weight of AEV bumpers).
Some people hate the stiffness and want ubber soft Skyjacker Hydro shocks on really soft spring rate springs.
Some people install lifts incorrectly and end up with rubber bushings pre-loaded/twisted/binding to the wrong ride height, which results in a jittery, poor ride. Then, they blame their installer error on the lift manufacturer.
#32
As a lift manufacturer, how do you build a turn-key bolt-on lift that makes everyone happy?
Some people prefer sportier, stiffer, and some people hate that.
As a manufacturer, do you pick spring rates and shock valving for a jeep that is built light, or one that has 800 additional lbs in armor/bumpers/gear, or tows a 3500 lbs camper, or one is driven at 45 mph through whoops in the desert, or one that is used for commuting in town, or one that is used for cross country driving, or one that is used for rock crawling, or one that will be used with shorter or longer shocks from a different manufacturer, etc., etc.?
Inevitably, a manufacturer cannot build something that does all these things without making the package extremely expensive an not "bolt-on".
Some people prefer sportier, stiffer, and some people hate that.
As a manufacturer, do you pick spring rates and shock valving for a jeep that is built light, or one that has 800 additional lbs in armor/bumpers/gear, or tows a 3500 lbs camper, or one is driven at 45 mph through whoops in the desert, or one that is used for commuting in town, or one that is used for cross country driving, or one that is used for rock crawling, or one that will be used with shorter or longer shocks from a different manufacturer, etc., etc.?
Inevitably, a manufacturer cannot build something that does all these things without making the package extremely expensive an not "bolt-on".
Last edited by planman; 02-18-2014 at 10:37 AM.
#33
#34
Must of misunderstood you when you said clearly Teraflex customer service was poor and I was wondering who in TF customer service was working with you?
#35
In hindsight, I shouldn't have made specific reference to the brands. It was my experience, but the intent of the comment was to support the context of my perspective. I do my best to not make biased public statements, but I'm human and slip from time to time.
I think my customer service comment was arguably, inappropriate to make in open forum. Calling out specific employees or detailing my experience would absolutely be inappropriate. Therefore, I won't do it online or offline. Far too many variables and I very well could be an outlier. I'm 28 data points away from having a statistically significant comment.
In fairness to Teraflex, there were times I would have been lost early on if not for their videos. As a company, they have done a lot to further the sport and bring value to the JK community.
#37
I've installed, owned, and/or driven jeeps with components or lifts from:
Teraflex
Rock Krawler
Rough Country
Old Man Emu
Currie
BDS/Zone
Trailmaster/Fox
Metalcloak
AEV/Bilstein
Skyjacker
EVO/King
You don't need to worry about sagging springs from Teraflex.
You've told us that your budget is about $1,000 for a lift.
How much is it for tires/wheels, regearing, a tuner, bumpers, armor, and other modifications during the next 12 months?
How will you drive your jeep on and off road?
How many on road miles will you do per year, what kind (commuting vs. long distances, speeds, etc.)?
What kind and frequency of off road driving will you do per year (expedition, rock crawling, forest service roads, mud, snow, high speed whoops, sand, etc.)?
What size tires do you plan to run?
How heavy will your jeep be on and off road?
Will you tow trailers or haul heavy loads?
Is your preference a stiffer, sportier handling like a Subaru STI or a softer, big boat type handling like an old Buick?
Will you do the installs yourself or pay for a shop to do them?
Teraflex
Rock Krawler
Rough Country
Old Man Emu
Currie
BDS/Zone
Trailmaster/Fox
Metalcloak
AEV/Bilstein
Skyjacker
EVO/King
You don't need to worry about sagging springs from Teraflex.
You've told us that your budget is about $1,000 for a lift.
How much is it for tires/wheels, regearing, a tuner, bumpers, armor, and other modifications during the next 12 months?
How will you drive your jeep on and off road?
How many on road miles will you do per year, what kind (commuting vs. long distances, speeds, etc.)?
What kind and frequency of off road driving will you do per year (expedition, rock crawling, forest service roads, mud, snow, high speed whoops, sand, etc.)?
What size tires do you plan to run?
How heavy will your jeep be on and off road?
Will you tow trailers or haul heavy loads?
Is your preference a stiffer, sportier handling like a Subaru STI or a softer, big boat type handling like an old Buick?
Will you do the installs yourself or pay for a shop to do them?
gearing will probably be a mod for next year
33" tires on right now Ultimately I would like to put 35" tires on
most of my offroading is expedition, forest service roads, and mud. very little if any rock crawling
On road I have steel bumpers front and rear, winch in the front
I dont do any trailer towing and hauling.........maybe a jet ski in the near future.
I would prefer a stiffer sportier ride.
I will probably install it myself.
#38
[QUOTE="ScubaSteve913;3840209"] I drive roughly 40-50 miles a day. about half city (30-45 mph), half highway(60-80 mph) gearing will probably be a mod for next year 33" tires on right now Ultimately I would like to put 35" tires on most of my offroading is expedition, forest service roads, and mud. very little if any rock crawling On road I have steel bumpers front and rear, winch in the front I dont do any trailer towing and hauling.........maybe a jet ski in the near future. I would prefer a stiffer sportier ride. I will probably install it myself.[/QUOTE ]
Problally 4.10 Or 4.56
Problally 4.10 Or 4.56
#39
I drive roughly 40-50 miles a day. about half city (30-45 mph), half highway(60-80 mph) gearing will probably be a mod for next year 33" tires on right now Ultimately I would like to put 35" tires on most of my offroading is expedition, forest service roads, and mud. very little if any rock crawling On road I have steel bumpers front and rear, winch in the front I dont do any trailer towing and hauling.........maybe a jet ski in the near future. I would prefer a stiffer sportier ride. I will probably install it myself.
#40
I drive roughly 40-50 miles a day. about half city (30-45 mph), half highway(60-80 mph)
gearing will probably be a mod for next year
33" tires on right now Ultimately I would like to put 35" tires on
most of my offroading is expedition, forest service roads, and mud. very little if any rock crawling
On road I have steel bumpers front and rear, winch in the front
I dont do any trailer towing and hauling.........maybe a jet ski in the near future.
I would prefer a stiffer sportier ride.
I will probably install it myself.
gearing will probably be a mod for next year
33" tires on right now Ultimately I would like to put 35" tires on
most of my offroading is expedition, forest service roads, and mud. very little if any rock crawling
On road I have steel bumpers front and rear, winch in the front
I dont do any trailer towing and hauling.........maybe a jet ski in the near future.
I would prefer a stiffer sportier ride.
I will probably install it myself.
On a budget: 2.5" BB lift from Teraflex, with Bilstein shocks, and find a pair of front take-off 4 door Rubicon hard top springs, and add a pair of front JKS front quick disconnect sway bar links.
The reason why is that the springs from a 4 dr Rubicon hard top are stiffer and can handle the weight of the steel front bumper and winch well. Plus, you don't need significant spring travel.
Using the whole $1,000, plus a little: An AEV 2.5" Dual Sport XT lift with the addition of front JKS quick disconnect sway bar links.
The reason for this is that the spring and shock combination is designed for a stiffer, sportier ride, and to be able to handle the added weight of heavy steel bumpers.
Now, you wouldn't be unhappy with a 2.5" lift from Rock Krawler or Metalcoak, but for what you have described as your use and preferences, I'd do what I listed above.
My use is different than yours, and I would run a Rock Krawler or Metal Cloak with as long travel shocks as the springs would allow.
Given that you have a 2011, 2 door automatic, if you stay at a 2.5" lift without running super long shocks, you will not need to upgrade your driveshafts or relocate your rear lower coil perches.
Since you have a 2011 automatic, when you regear, you will want to run 5.13s when you upgrade to 35s. That will put you at about 2450 engine rpm at 70 mph and just under 2800 engine rpm at 80 mph. With the added weight and rolling resistance of the 35s, you will need around 2500 rpm at 70 mph and 2800 rpm at 80 mph to reduce transmission downshifting. Transmission downshifting is what kills fuel economy.
By comparison, if you installed 4.56s with 35s, you would not even turn 2200 rpm at 70 mph and would still be under 2500 rpm at 80 mph.
The 3.8L engine produces less than 90 rear wheel horsepower at 2500 rpm. That simply isn't enough horsepower to handle the wind resistance and added weight of larger tires at 80 mph without regular transmission downshifting.