Rock Krawler vs. Tera flex vs. Metal cloak
05-31-2014, 03:45 PM
#121
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Baltimore, md
Posts: 270
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I run my '12 JK w/ -
Metal Cloak 3.5 springs
Metal Cloak control arms front/ rear uppers and lowers all adjustable.
Fox 2.0 shocks
Terraflex exhaust spacers
JKS 0-6" front/ rear adjustable trackbars
JKS 0-6" quick discos and rear end links
Crown break lines
I trail wheel a ton almost every weekend and rock crawl a bit every couple months. Also drive the highway often. I love the combination of the entire build.
Metal Cloak 3.5 springs
Metal Cloak control arms front/ rear uppers and lowers all adjustable.
Fox 2.0 shocks
Terraflex exhaust spacers
JKS 0-6" front/ rear adjustable trackbars
JKS 0-6" quick discos and rear end links
Crown break lines
I trail wheel a ton almost every weekend and rock crawl a bit every couple months. Also drive the highway often. I love the combination of the entire build.
06-05-2014, 11:22 AM
#122
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Syracuse, NY
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Advice needed also
There is an unbelievable amount of knowledge & support upon this forum... Do to this I'm going to reach out for your advice also. As the OP stated, I also have read thru so much advice & so many opinions that I'm not even sure which way is up right now!
I have '12 JKU Rubicon Automatic living in the Snow (& Salt) capital of Syracuse, NY so it has to be of quality materials so it doesn't rust out on me the first winter. About 10-15K year & I drive like an A-hole on the streets & finesse upon the trails... The way it should be, Right?
Currently on 33's & would like a minimum 35's leaning towards 37's (can't afford to re-gear yet). I like the idea of a lower COG for stability.
Factory front bumper cut down with 12K# winch Rear bumper has been made into a pressurized water tank. Hard & Soft Tops.
Looking forwards towards body armor & fenders all around so she won't ever be losing weight.
I originally was going to do the TF budget boost with 35's, but I'd kill for MC game changer w/6 packs (I haven't won the lottery just yet).
Mainly woods/mud trails that I've been wheeling on with the plan to hit Rausch Creek & hopefully make the pilgrimage too Moab & Rubicon Trail.
I'm looking too buy one kit (includes everything) & be done with it. Myself & local Jeepers hopefully installing it as a bolt on.
Ball park budget of around $2,500 to play with in total.
Please be specific of what & why (your personal experience with a product & not an opinion please) so I can get a better handle upon all of this.
Thanks in advance!
I have '12 JKU Rubicon Automatic living in the Snow (& Salt) capital of Syracuse, NY so it has to be of quality materials so it doesn't rust out on me the first winter. About 10-15K year & I drive like an A-hole on the streets & finesse upon the trails... The way it should be, Right?
Currently on 33's & would like a minimum 35's leaning towards 37's (can't afford to re-gear yet). I like the idea of a lower COG for stability.
Factory front bumper cut down with 12K# winch Rear bumper has been made into a pressurized water tank. Hard & Soft Tops.
Looking forwards towards body armor & fenders all around so she won't ever be losing weight.
I originally was going to do the TF budget boost with 35's, but I'd kill for MC game changer w/6 packs (I haven't won the lottery just yet).
Mainly woods/mud trails that I've been wheeling on with the plan to hit Rausch Creek & hopefully make the pilgrimage too Moab & Rubicon Trail.
I'm looking too buy one kit (includes everything) & be done with it. Myself & local Jeepers hopefully installing it as a bolt on.
Ball park budget of around $2,500 to play with in total.
Please be specific of what & why (your personal experience with a product & not an opinion please) so I can get a better handle upon all of this.
Thanks in advance!
06-05-2014, 01:14 PM
#123
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 307
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One of the main things I personally like about the Duroflex joint is that it keeps the control arms from "rolling over" and making clunking noises when you go from drive to reverse and vice versa like most other arms do because there is no tension on the others joints like the DF joint. The DF joint holds the arm stationary and neutral at all times until it is called upon to rotate with a decent amount of suspension pressure. It also allows the arms to follow the exact bend that the factory arms have for the best tire clearance.
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