That's a stock tie rod, they have a bend there naturally. I can't tell if yours is the same bend though

 

Check your bolt torque on the trackbar and other components.

Other items to check:

Sway bar links
Tie Rod Ends
Steering Box
Ball Joints

 

The bend is intended to go away from the differential. The tie rod end on one side is non adjustable (holds bar orientation). So if it is bending in like the image shows, the bar is bent.

RK

 

So I put an x-factor lift on the jeep back in 2011. I decided to go thru everything and the Krawler joints are seized up. Anyway I'm going to put new Krawler joints as I had my buddy machine them out.
So anyone have part numbers for the rear upper and lower control arms. Threads are 1" and the smaller shank is 7/8" 14 threads per inch.
Also need to replace the poly bushings with something.
I see the new joints are available with grease zerks?
It's the mid arm kit

 

Actually you can unbolt one tie rod end and turn the tie rod backwards and reinstall it.

As you can see in this picture, mine was exactly as I explained, and it was not bent.

 

is ANYTHING (not just lift/tire related, literally anything) required/recommended to complete a 2.5 Flex with 35's on a JKU?

 

Not sure I understand your question. If you haven't already, read TheDirtMan's sticky on lifts. There are so many variables, as to what constitutes a completed lift. For me, the Flex was not complete enough. I went with the X-Factor. And it's still not complete enough. For you, that may be a different answer.

As soon as we decide to lift our Jeep, we start mucking with the steering geometry and center of gravity, etc. That's the biggest issue that most new Jeep owners (including myself) don't always know could be a problem. There are ways to address these issues, however, so all is not lost.

So, if you are asking what "needs" to be added to a Flex in order to make it "complete", I would add, at a minimum, rear upper adjustable control arms and bump stops. Not sure if that answers your question or not.

If I could do it all over again, I'd still get the X-Factor, but I think I would have spent the time to have the rear spring perches relocated rather than using the spring wedges I have now, and probably looked into replacing the front axle with a caster corrected housing. I still may do that someday.

 

That's exactly what I was asking for lol. Just anything that the kit could use to make it a bit better. Sorry for the confusion

 

Actually on a 4 door you only need front lowers.
Shocks/stops is it unless you buy a stage 1/2 kit.
I know NR and other venders package shocks and bumpstops in with RK kits.

 

I had the same problem, it was the drag link end at the pitman arm. Happened when I turned left.