Rock Krawler Lift advice
#11
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I'll have to look into the Y pipe a little more. I'm trying to keep the cost down on this mod as much as I can. So if I can get away with not upgrading something at the moment that would be ideal. Also does anyone have this lift with 285/70/17 Duratrac? I've been searching for days on here looking for someone with this setup and I've only had a few results. I don't want my jeep to look like its on roller skates but Im really starting to think that 35s are going to be too much tire at this point. While it will be on a trail a couple times, it will be on the road probably 90% of the time. Lots of highway too...
#12
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Just FYI, the Rugged Ridge exhaust spacers are under $30 from Amazon. See
Rugged Ridge 17606.76 Exhaust Spacer Kit for Jeep Wrangler
http://amzn.com/B008900BRU.
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Rugged Ridge 17606.76 Exhaust Spacer Kit for Jeep Wrangler
http://amzn.com/B008900BRU.
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#13
I run almost the exact set up you are looking at on my 2013 4 door. I run 285s Kelly TSR on factory 17" alloys and NO spacers. The TSR is close copy of the Duratrac. The TSR in made by Goodyear.
There is no need for a new drive shaft or exhaust with the 2.5. I have run mine on a good number of trails out here in Ca. including the Rubicon, along with a number of trails in Moab UT. All while running a disconnected sway bar. My drive shaft has NEVER come in contact with my exhaust system.
You will get some minor tire rubbing on your lower front control arms at full turn/wheel lock but nothing that will hurt the vehicle.
285/33" tires are fine. They give the Jeep a more lean athletic look vs a buff weight lifter look. Also you will lose less on street performance and almost nothing on trails compared to 315/35".
Lastly if you are under warrant still and mess with the exhaust or drive line kiss your warranty goodby if you have a problem with them or any component attached directly to them. Learned lesson a few times in the past.
If you would like to see photos of my set up PM me. Hope another view point helps.
There is no need for a new drive shaft or exhaust with the 2.5. I have run mine on a good number of trails out here in Ca. including the Rubicon, along with a number of trails in Moab UT. All while running a disconnected sway bar. My drive shaft has NEVER come in contact with my exhaust system.
You will get some minor tire rubbing on your lower front control arms at full turn/wheel lock but nothing that will hurt the vehicle.
285/33" tires are fine. They give the Jeep a more lean athletic look vs a buff weight lifter look. Also you will lose less on street performance and almost nothing on trails compared to 315/35".
Lastly if you are under warrant still and mess with the exhaust or drive line kiss your warranty goodby if you have a problem with them or any component attached directly to them. Learned lesson a few times in the past.
If you would like to see photos of my set up PM me. Hope another view point helps.
#14
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I run almost the exact set up you are looking at on my 2013 4 door. I run 285s Kelly TSR on factory 17" alloys and NO spacers. The TSR is close copy of the Duratrac. The TSR in made by Goodyear.
There is no need for a new drive shaft or exhaust with the 2.5. I have run mine on a good number of trails out here in Ca. including the Rubicon, along with a number of trails in Moab UT. All while running a disconnected sway bar. My drive shaft has NEVER come in contact with my exhaust system.
You will get some minor tire rubbing on your lower front control arms at full turn/wheel lock but nothing that will hurt the vehicle.
285/33" tires are fine. They give the Jeep a more lean athletic look vs a buff weight lifter look. Also you will lose less on street performance and almost nothing on trails compared to 315/35".
Lastly if you are under warrant still and mess with the exhaust or drive line kiss your warranty goodby if you have a problem with them or any component attached directly to them. Learned lesson a few times in the past.
If you would like to see photos of my set up PM me. Hope another view point helps.
There is no need for a new drive shaft or exhaust with the 2.5. I have run mine on a good number of trails out here in Ca. including the Rubicon, along with a number of trails in Moab UT. All while running a disconnected sway bar. My drive shaft has NEVER come in contact with my exhaust system.
You will get some minor tire rubbing on your lower front control arms at full turn/wheel lock but nothing that will hurt the vehicle.
285/33" tires are fine. They give the Jeep a more lean athletic look vs a buff weight lifter look. Also you will lose less on street performance and almost nothing on trails compared to 315/35".
Lastly if you are under warrant still and mess with the exhaust or drive line kiss your warranty goodby if you have a problem with them or any component attached directly to them. Learned lesson a few times in the past.
If you would like to see photos of my set up PM me. Hope another view point helps.
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#15
Mine was stock 4dr with the exception of the lift and tires when I ran both the Rubicon and Moab in early/mid summer. I had no problems with the drive shaft contacting the exhaust.
I run the lift the OP is looking to install, it came in really close to the numbers stated. On the 2dr I could see this issue coming up but the 4 dr is a bit more chunky.
But then maybe I just lucked out?
I run the lift the OP is looking to install, it came in really close to the numbers stated. On the 2dr I could see this issue coming up but the 4 dr is a bit more chunky.
But then maybe I just lucked out?
#16
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Could be. Also, could be the flex system doesn't have as much droop as some of the others. I'm putting on the 2.5" Max Travel and I think I will run onto the problem. The exhaust spacers are good insurance.
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#17
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Droop has nothing to do with the lift and everything to do with the shocks installed, and any other "limiting" part. There are guys that have worked out 12" of shock travel, up to 40" of total articulation, on stock arms.
#18
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#19
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This is not entirely true. Shocks are the first limiting factor, but the overall lift affects down travel as well. IE, long travel control arms, track bars, and springs can all help. The shock has to support the length of down travel but any of those other components can limit the overall droop as well.
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Ideally, you should set the bump stop you need for your tire size and fender configuration, then pick the longest compressed length shock possible.
#20
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Agreed, bushing bind, axle steer, sway links, brake lines, all play a part.... What I'm saying is shocks are the first limiting factory.
Ideally, you should set the bump stop you need for your tire size and fender configuration, then pick the longest compressed length shock possible.
Ideally, you should set the bump stop you need for your tire size and fender configuration, then pick the longest compressed length shock possible.
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