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Rock Krawler Lift advice

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Old 08-21-2013, 05:56 AM
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Default Rock Krawler Lift advice

Yes, yet another thread about a lift kit. Being that I could not find what I was looking for on this site or Google I decided to start my own thread.

So here's my current set up.
Stock 2012 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited

Here's what I'm looking for.
2.5 Rock Krawler FlexSystem
33 or 35 inch Duratrac tires
(Keeping stock rims)

Now here's my questions.
With a four-door Jeep how much lift will I actually get with this lift? I have no steel bumpers or any other added weight. From what I've read so far you actually get more lift than advertised?

Will I need an exhaust spacer because I have a 2012?

Will I have to buy new shocks or can I keep my current Rubicon shocks for now?

Is there anything that this kit does not come with that I should buy separately?

My jeep is only off road on the weekends, sometimes, and it is my daily driver. Will 33's be better than 35s in my situation? Mostly light trails and the beach occasionally.

Is anyone currently running a 2.5 RK flex system lift and 285/70/17 duratracs? Pictures seem to be limited on this setup.

Thank you again everyone for your help!
Old 08-21-2013, 06:07 AM
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Doing offroad I wouldn't do the exhaust spacers, do a front driveshaft. You will need wheel spacers to clear 35s, and I would go with the 3.5" flex system on 4 door, give you more clearance for the length of vehicle.
Old 08-21-2013, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by wcfd111
Yes, yet another thread about a lift kit. Being that I could not find what I was looking for on this site or Google I decided to start my own thread.

So here's my current set up.
Stock 2012 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited

Here's what I'm looking for.
2.5 Rock Krawler FlexSystem
33 or 35 inch Duratrac tires
(Keeping stock rims)

Now here's my questions.
With a four-door Jeep how much lift will I actually get with this lift? I have no steel bumpers or any other added weight. From what I've read so far you actually get more lift than advertised?

I would guess about 3" of total lift with no armor/bumpers. Maybe 3.5" worst case.

Will I need an exhaust spacer because I have a 2012?

Yes.

Will I have to buy new shocks or can I keep my current Rubicon shocks for now?

You can add shock extensions, but IMO it is a cheap/weak solution. There are many low cost shocks to choose from that will work much much better in a lifted applicaiton.

Is there anything that this kit does not come with that I should buy separately?

It's a fairly complete starter kit. You will need bumpstops, but those are based off what tires size, fenders, and shocks you choose to run. Hockey pucks work beautifully for the front. Rear is a little trickier. I would also suggest rear brake lines while you are at it

My jeep is only off road on the weekends, sometimes, and it is my daily driver. Will 33's be better than 35s in my situation? Mostly light trails and the beach occasionally.

33's will be a little more street friendly, but you would have no issues running 35's and honestly it is the route I would go. If you wheel at all, I'd look into axle armor of some form with either tire size.

Is anyone currently running a 2.5 RK flex system lift and 285/70/17 duratracs? Pictures seem to be limited on this setup.

Thank you again everyone for your help!
See red above. Also, I see you're in Albany. Your not too far away.... if you ever need any help feel free to ask or shoot me a PM.
Old 08-21-2013, 06:55 AM
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I went with the RK 2.5 max travel with the Bilstein 5100s after a ton of research and couldn’t be happier with the lift. Consider upgrading to the max travel for the rear brake lines and rear arms since there are some pics of stretched stock brake lines when running this lift and it’s nice to be able to adjust the rear pinion angle.

From what I have seen, the RK 2.5 will give you too much lift to run your stock Rubicon shocks efficiently and the ride is better than stock on the Bilsteins, so I wouldn’t hesitate to do them (or a similar shock) at the same time.

I had approximately 3.5” of lift in the front and 1.5” in the rear on a stock 2013 Rubicon Unlimited with hard top and tow package, so I used a 1” TF rear spacer to level it out.

I’m also running the stock wheels on 1.5” spacers, and the 315 duratracs you are considering – which I think looks perfect, but that is personal preference.

The only other thing you will need are the bump stops depending on the shock length you choose (2” or 3”). Terraflex makes a nice lower rear bump stop that is worth looking at.

Note – I’m running the exhaust spacer and have no issues with exhaust clearance. May go with new driveshafts at some point, but didn’t want to spend the extra cash or risk potential vibration issues just yet.

Good luck!
Old 08-21-2013, 08:21 AM
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On 2012 2 dr, my 2.5 max travel required both exhaust spacers and aftermarket driveshaft. With shaft alone, on full droop, it would ever-so-slightly rub on the cross section. I didn't want to take any chance.
Old 08-21-2013, 08:58 AM
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So I guess the question now is do I buy a exhaust spacer or new front driveshaft? I'm looking to do these installs myself. I know I can handle the lift but I don't know much about installing a drive shaft or exhaust spacer.
Old 08-21-2013, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by wcfd111
So I guess the question now is do I buy a exhaust spacer or new front driveshaft? I'm looking to do these installs myself. I know I can handle the lift but I don't know much about installing a drive shaft or exhaust spacer.
We recommend a new front driveshaft over the exhaust spacer.

You can PM for a quote on a package deal if you would like.
Old 08-21-2013, 10:51 AM
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Being that I'm not doing heavy off roading, can I hold of on drive shafts for a while? Again mostly on the beach when I go to the cape and some trails at the camp.
Old 08-21-2013, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wcfd111
Being that I'm not doing heavy off roading, can I hold of on drive shafts for a while? Again mostly on the beach when I go to the cape and some trails at the camp.
The stock drive shaft will rub on the exhaust cross over pipe. You can get away with doing the exhaust spacers but the DS is the better option.
Old 08-21-2013, 02:54 PM
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You don't need the drive shaft until it goes bad. You don't need to spend the money. It only hits when you droop so if you aren't off roading much it should be ok with the spacers. An even better option cheaper than the driveshaft is the AFE Y Pipe that moves the cross over completely out of the way.


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