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Rock Hard skid plates?

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Old 03-20-2008, 02:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BodyGuy
Not as strong as you think


the coned washer is nice however


Aw, all skid plates look like that unless you're mall crawlin anyway....3/16" is decent protection for the underbelly, but, IT takes the damage, instead of the truck....and especially on a 116" wheel base...that's a lot of metal under there to bend/bang up, as the break over angle is spread out like a larger rock target, etc.

1/4" dents less, but is SO damn heavy for that much coverage, you'd add 100's of pounds to lug up that hill, etc....so 3/16" is a decent compromise.

My skids look like the above too, so I know what it takes to do what to them....its called "FUN".









BTW - these are Skid-Row skid plates....which are off now, replaced with Shrockworks plates, which offer better protection.

Last edited by TEEJ; 03-20-2008 at 02:50 PM.
Old 03-20-2008, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TEEJ
BTW - these are Skid-Row skid plates....which are off now, replaced with Shrockworks plates, which offer better protection.
WHAT?? Since when does Shrockworks make skid plates for the JK. I just checked their site again the other day. More info, please!!!!!
Old 03-20-2008, 05:33 PM
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they make skidplates or xterras
Old 03-20-2008, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Phishjeep
WHAT?? Since when does Shrockworks make skid plates for the JK. I just checked their site again the other day. More info, please!!!!!


Yeah - I'm WAITING for the JK's plates from Shrock....The Xterra's the work horse in the family, the JK is the wife's Jeep.....but she only started off roading in '06...so she's taking it slow on the build-up....esp. 'cause she's had a few dozen strokes to recover from, etc.
Old 03-20-2008, 07:19 PM
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Those are some great shots! Imagine the bills you woulda been paying if you hadn't had those things on.
Old 11-10-2010, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Autorotate
I did a write up last week on the tranny/oil combo and evap.

I will say I have noticed some more engine vibes at various RPMS due to the fact that the skid brackets attach to the motor mounts and the back side of the skid attaches to the transmission crossmember right under your feet on a 4 door.

When you figure it out, the skid bolts up as advertised and is beefy.

NR4X4 will be seeing my order for the tranny skid on my next big order next week.
I know this is an old post, but for those that are searching for RH install tips. I made some ruber isolatores from an old truck mudflap.
I cut an 1 1/2" strip x 20" and pre-drilled 3/4" holes in it every 3" or so, then sliced them in to oversized washers and installed them between the brackets and the frame.
I also maid a one peice 3" x 20" pre-drilled for the four bolt holes that tie the oil & t-case skids together. and sanwiched it between the crosmember & skids.

absolutely no vibrations, ratles, squeaks of any kind.
I learnd this some time ago from another man when I first started moding for comp builds. metal on metal is tuff stuff. but on a daily driver, or family heepster, it can be tuff and comfy aswell.

Just my 2-cents
Old 11-10-2010, 12:58 PM
  #27  
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Default Rock Hard Skid Plates

I've had mine for a while now. I have the engine, transfer case, and evap skids. I've never really been happy with the fit quality. They are heavy. You will lose about an inch of clearance at your tranmission cross member - engine skid + transfer case skid + bolts with thick washers. You may get vibrations from the engine or exhaust cross over pipe - I do. I'm planning on taking mine off soon. My plan is to re-install the better fitting factory skids or install a true smooth bottom belly skid that has the cross member built in. Remember wayoflife asserts the factory skids are more than adequate and he's put in alot of hard wheeling.



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