River Raider Skid Wearing Away Edge Of Tranny Pan...
07-15-2011 | 04:30 PM
#11
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,036
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From: Westfield, MA
I would suggest anyone having a similar issue definitely email them pics - I didn't believe I could be the only one with this issue. Glad I'm not going crazy...
I did see where mine was touching the pan in same area. Do not have that problem now. I heavily modified the trans skid to work with the FT cross member that came with my long arm kit. Project involved trimming about 1 1/2 inches off back end, then notching corner to clear factory brace on driver side. Also had to bend rear tab to make flush with FT cross brace. Finally I used a BFH to bend the bracket where the connecting bolt attaches the oil pan and trans pan skids.
(Actually TINMAN080 did most of the cutting, bending and welding. Thanks!)
Then I drilled two new holes at rear to attach to FT cross brace.
The FT cross brace is about 3" lower than the factory cross member, which moved my trans skid well away from the transmission oil pan. No more clearance issues.
A couple pictures show where I ground added clearance for the two lines. Probably could have taken more off though because lines are still very close to skid.
(Actually TINMAN080 did most of the cutting, bending and welding. Thanks!)
Then I drilled two new holes at rear to attach to FT cross brace.
The FT cross brace is about 3" lower than the factory cross member, which moved my trans skid well away from the transmission oil pan. No more clearance issues.
A couple pictures show where I ground added clearance for the two lines. Probably could have taken more off though because lines are still very close to skid.
07-15-2011 | 05:00 PM
#12
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 406
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From: Hatfield, PA
Looking at the skid plate pic, taking a 1/4" off the top close to the rub won't impact the integrity of the skid plate. It looks like you have about 3" of material there... I'd have the cutting wheel buzzing away and not thing 2x about it.
Cut it. Hit it with a flapper disc/grinding wheel to clean up the edges. Paint it. Forget about it.
Jeff
Cut it. Hit it with a flapper disc/grinding wheel to clean up the edges. Paint it. Forget about it.
Jeff
07-15-2011 | 07:15 PM
#13
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 206
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From: Virginia
Talked again to River Raider again today, they said I was the only one to come across this problem. They're still suggesting to grind it down or try to hammer it out, but I did get them to potentially cut a bit of a better deal on one of their snorkels, so they're trying to do what they can.
I would suggest anyone having a similar issue definitely email them pics - I didn't believe I could be the only one with this issue. Glad I'm not going crazy...
Who knows...maybe I was at the time. It was more than a year ago.
If you look closely you can see a small line/indent in the pan just above the "R's".
07-15-2011 | 07:41 PM
#14
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,214
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From: New River/ Phoenix,AZ
Here are a couple pics of my trim job on the skid. As you can see I will be replacing my pan gasket again soon. 3rd time in 19k miles and yes I am running aftermarket driveshafts but some how the front still makes contact.
07-15-2011 | 10:21 PM
#16
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 389
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From: Vancouver BC
Before I diagnosed my vibration issue as the transmission line tubes hitting the skid, I called RR and was told, and I quote, "You are the only one who has called with that problem".
Who knows...maybe I was at the time. It was more than a year ago.
If you look closely you can see a small line/indent in the pan just above the "R's".
Who knows...maybe I was at the time. It was more than a year ago.
If you look closely you can see a small line/indent in the pan just above the "R's".
07-15-2011 | 10:34 PM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: sac
300
For 300 ding dongs I expect a bolt-on I don't have to grind to fit a stock vehicle. "I've never seen that before" makes the manufacturer sound like a bunch of tossers. It's a skid plate and shoulnt require extensive R&D.
Well that's one guys opinion anyway.
Well that's one guys opinion anyway.
07-15-2011 | 10:44 PM
#18
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 415
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From: Kelowna, BC
Originally Posted by rmplstlskn
For 300 ding dongs I expect a bolt-on I don't have to grind to fit a stock vehicle. "I've never seen that before" makes the manufacturer sound like a bunch of tossers. It's a skid plate and shoulnt require extensive R&D.
Well that's one guys opinion anyway.
Well that's one guys opinion anyway.
07-15-2011 | 11:46 PM
#19
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,214
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From: New River/ Phoenix,AZ
Originally Posted by rmplstlskn
For 300 ding dongs I expect a bolt-on I don't have to grind to fit a stock vehicle. "I've never seen that before" makes the manufacturer sound like a bunch of tossers. It's a skid plate and shoulnt require extensive R&D.
Well that's one guys opinion anyway.
Well that's one guys opinion anyway.
07-16-2011 | 06:23 AM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 206
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From: Virginia
I don't recall seeing anything in the RR instructions at the time saying which side the trans lines were supposed to be on. Nor was there a bracket included with my RR skids that was to be used to relocate the lines to the outside of the skid.
Moving my trans lines away from the engine far enough to clear the skid would have been difficult and would have kinked or damaged them. And, as I said before, there was no relocation bracket in the kit for that purpose.
Was there a change made in the RR skid design sometime after I purchased mine?...Possibly.
Did Jeep make changes or allow variations at the factory regarding how they routed these trans lines during construction...I don't know.
It's possible.