Drivability:
The boost is extremely drivable at 2600 depending how far into the throttle you as you can use 1-3psi in a down shift from over drive to 3rd. But remember all of this is going ti be varied on the tire and gear size you have. The video's are of auto trucks in 3rd gear pulls for power, they are all after 3000 rpm because thats where the torque converter finally locks up. So using those as final judge and jury is not exactly fair.

Remember we are pinning our entry level kit out there, safe and sound for all to enjoy, like everything else. We aren’t promoting exhaust or headers or programmers. The kit is designed to give you the flexibility back in your mod’d truck. In doing so you simply adapt to where the power is made. This truck doesn’t make power at 1700rpm it’s simply not moving the air and doesn’t have the weight behind the crank to do it. The engine meets the blower’s efficiency at 2300 and that’s where the fun begins. I often fine myself matching that RPM and find the closer I stay to 2000 the better MPG I get. It’s not all about boost.

Furthermore, its not all about boost either… this isn’t a race car or a dragster, this is a daily driver and weekend fun machine, often far away from tow trucks..right? So we utilize the air volume from the blower to the max, we take advantage of the already rich side tune by leaning out the mix with “ram air”. I promise the moment you turn out of the driveway you’ll feel an immediate throttle response, then right as you pass 2500 it all comes together.

Yes:
We are currently testing with higher boost levels and spec-ing out the engine with 30000 miles of hard driving boost on it. There is a degree of information we really cannot divulge regarding the electronics and engine. Rest assured on this platform – a platform we ourselves bring our own families in – we are not pushing break points or risking getting stuck. For many of the show goers who we meet and greet they are husbans and wives looking for more passing power and drivability. We deliver that in one stroke, better gas mileage in another and the ability to run 87-93 in another. That’s a flexibility that few SC manufactures can claim.

NO NOT EVEN CLOSE…. The Mitsu 3.8 is like comparing a Hemi to a slant six… rod angle, compresson, intake/exhaust port size valve size… is all completely different.

This is one of those things we can’t disclose…

I will email you later today…


RIPPTECH

 

I cannot wait to see the RIPP Jeep at the PA Jeepshow on Saturday...see you guys there....

 

So got any vid of someone putting the skinny pedal to floor and burning off some 35's or 37's? I know I know it's just a Jeep and not a hotrod.

 

THIS IS FOR RIPP:

I would indeed like to see your response to this. From the moment I owned the JK I have intended to install a Super Charger but this post certainly gives me a some pause..

 

...and lord knows that ain't my intent with this arguement. The last thing I want to do is discourage anyone from buying anything from any of our sponsors. All of my points are age old and have not been solved without major engine mods. Ripp, if you've found the magic bullet, I'm all ears, but my experience in this area has me doubting it.

 

I'm just trying to ENCOURAGE people to become educated about spending 5K. Blower motors are something I have almomst 30 years to the day worth of experience on. If you think my advice is discouragement, I'll keep it to myself and read about the pieces flying.

 

Those are extremely bold statements and I mostly resent the fact that your thinking we would gamble blowing this communities engines, especially after the fact that we said we drive our own families in them. We've posted more viable information in the few weeks we've been up here than in a year since the "other" kits have been introduced. An educated conversation is based on facts you know about the engine in question....Since I know

I'll argue...yes you can…!

You can add 150whp and drive it for 100000 miles….!
I have - I will - and - I do!

And no matter how much you tell me you’ve blown up engines in the past...those were your circumstances under your condition set under your parameters. You haven’t blown up this engine, you don’t know what it looks like inside … you haven’t driven it for 30k at 8psi… taken it out, torn it down piece by piece, sent pieces out the the machine shop and looked at it like I have.

For the sake of argument… we’ve been in business for 15 years, so yes, we have built an engine or two, in fact all our performance has been built around forced induction. It sounds as though you may be use to larger displacement engines whereas we are very comfortable around small displacement engines running high boost… respectfully how many 700whp 1.8l 30psi inline 4 engines have you built? At the same time how many 400whp stock-internal V6 3.0/3.8 Mitsubishi’s have you built? Lastly how many PCM’s or electronic engine management systems have you designed and manufactured or programmed?

612whp Stock Block Z06
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uw1ozQ4w3Hw

305whp stock block 3.0 eclipse
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwefrJsw7mE

373whp stock block G35
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka07637uCXU

430whp Stock Block 06 Eclipse this is the original test fitter from 2006:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htYJdxfrCSg

326whp 16300-mile Stock Block Maxima
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxSUvUfbDRw

294whp Stock Block 145k mile 04 Eclipse
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4ya__ymxn0

Okay… so that being said!

Vortech sells 5.0 Ford and 5.7liter Chevy kits every day and installs them on bone stock 100mile + engines and they run fine. It’s all in the tuning… I don’t care how “purpose built” your engine is if you’re tuning off…. Guess what!? your engines failing period! So don’t pee on my leg and tell me its raining.

The JK’s 3.8 with 30k is in our shop torn down and spec’d, you haven’t seen the inside of the engine nor can you assimilate any of the “theory” on this engine. For the sake of argument yes, this engine does looks as though it may have been set up for boost. Specifically for a supercharger, many manufactures account for aftermarket practicality. You think the engineers at Ford don’t know what guys do with their cars? The Engineers at Dodge never heard of a supercharger? It’s factored in to the equation… just how much is up to the aftermarket to figure out… but lets be real here!

Old boy racer or not you can’t take away the fact that we retard timing and enrich fuel at precisely the right time so not to stress the components you’re questioning. For your information this engine uses pizo-electric knock sensors that’s monitored digitally not analog - at the very hint of knock the timing goes back. At the same time the TIPUM module is controlling torque total wheel power output, should you be making too much power for the drive train it will again control the tune to keep things safe. RIPP retains these safety features to keep the engine safe. Many of our competitor’s clients have been complaining about EML lights triggering (that’s the light with the lightening bolt with the two lines next to each other when you romp on the gas) those are the knock counts going way out of range… no such animal with our kit romp away.

So to answer your question regarding engine accountability:

Yes, we know what the
• Rods
• Rod bolt
• Wrist pins
• Wrist pin play
• Head bolts
• Head gaskets
• Pistons
• Piston to wall
• Ring gap upper and lower
• Oil pressure at idle through 6300rpm
• Crank main studs
• Crank mains bearings
• Valves
• Valve stem seals
• Valve seats
• Valve Spring and rates are
• Rocker arm material
• Roller shaft material
• Push rods
• Cam
• Timing chain
• And oil pump all look like

Ohh and by the way the head gasket is double layer and metal.

We’ve been building supercharger kits for 7 going on 8 years this September, we are not pedaling snake oil - everyone who has driven this system has had one thing to say and that’s wow! We are not arguing the fact that boost doesn’t have a long term effects however given the day to day operation and functionality of these trucks you can’t compare them to any purpose built SC’d engine, because you race those purpose built engines. We are arguing the fact that RIPP has taken every precaution necessary to keep the engine and its components in a safe place, including retaining the functionality and safety system of the stock ECU. I stress…. We’ve designed this system to deliver 1-3psi for passing and 8 for power up top, your not there that often. The purpose of THIS kit is to get the day to day drivability back… not beat mustangs off the line. Compare apples to apples not apples to all fruits.

Based on how clean our 30k engine looks after tearing it down we are running and logging higher boost levels… we are not aiming to blow engines up, however if our high boost engine does fail then that’s a window of opportunity to see what could fail at lower RPM. This info can and will be made available should it happen. W e aren’t here to jump in sell a few kits and jump out, we hope to start a long lasting relationship with this community, in doing so offering a safe and effective alternative to swapping engines.

RIPPTECH

About your edit…
The reason none of us have a V8 or a forced induction options is power to weight ratio…DOT will not allow insurance companies to insure these vehicles out of the dealer with “X” amount of power… or so goes the conversation I personally had with a Chrysler suit about 4 months ago. It’s the same reason Vette’s and Ferraris’ have gas guzzlers tax’s and Ford F150’s don’t… the power to weight ratio is a lot lower! Same goes with the Jeep…. Take a look at the cars and more importantly the weights of the cars that come with blowers OEM… versus lower hp larger displacement models.

 

Well, you seem to put up a good arguement, but I just don't agree. Tell me then, why is it that engines available from the factory with a supercharger have completely different components than their non-supercharged counterparts? Look at the Ford 3.8L for example. Almost every super charged internal engine component carries a different part number and is made of beefier, stronger material than the non-supercharged engines. The blocks are not even the same. Did you know that? Same for any of the factory supercharged engines from any other car maker. I worked for toyota for seven years. In that time, the MR2 was available with either a standard fuel injected engine, a turbo equipped engine, a super charged engine, OR a turbo/super charged engine. That's right. BOTH. ALL FOUR were the same basic engine, but none shared the same internals OR BLOCK because of the increased loads of the turbo and super charger. Why do the factories use different internal engine components if you can "get away" with 100 extra horsepower from an otherwise "standard" engine? Are you saying all of those highly paid factory engineers don't know what they are doing? Are you smarter than they are? And remember, the factories use much lower boost ratings than any aftermarket blower, yet they STILL use fortified parts. I can back up these claims with factory part numbers if you're interested. I am still Ford Certified to work on the Thunderbird SC engines. That's a three week course by the way. Not to mention all of my GM, Chrysler and Toyota certifications. I didn't just start this yesterday. I'm not accusing you of selling snake oil. All I am saying is if you add anything to extract more power from an engine, you WILL shorten it's lifespan. Just like driving a stone stock vehicle like you stole it ALL the time will also shorten the lifespan. There's no getting around that. You seem to argue your point as if that just isn't true when you know it is. Frankly, you can resent me all you like. I am only speaking from experience. You can say I'm comparing apples to oranges all day long, but the principles about what we are discussing are the same. So tell me then, does your company intend to warranty your products AND the engines they are installed on for 100,000 miles? You certainly talk a good game. Are you ready to put your money where your mouth is?

 

If your talking MR2 then you’re talking 3SI and 5SFE… the 3SI shared the same bottom end an all FI engines whereas the 5SFE did not. RIPP Supercharged the 5SFE and finally threw 11psi through it to make an extra 109whp and I drove my 5SFE with stock internals around for 2 years, sold it to a client and he’s still driving it.

RIPP Camry



If your talking SVO and the SC Thunderbird your talking old school boost and that’s a time when boosted engines really meant busted engines…. I can see where you’re coming from. The Audi/VW, Mitsubishi, and Toyota cars of the late 80’s and early 90’s really left a lot to the imagination. They had to over build those cars because the electronics back then were dumber than most microwaves… you can probably run a late 80’s early 90’s turbo car with your iPhone and still carry on a conversation. They used pressure sensors and temp and knock counts to tune and they tuned AFTER somthing went wrong. The early Toyota used a MAS air sensor with a potentiometer in it…thats like AFX slot cars…

I’m not saying boost doesn’t have an effect - I’m saying that at the levels we are working at and the time we’ve spent R and Ding that its not and disastrous as you’ve made it out to be. As the years have gone by the in car electronics have gotten better and the after market control units smarter, in doing so you can run a car in closed loop (part throttle cruise) like stock and add 1 or 2psi and still stay on the lean side and safe. On the other hand when your full tilt there is no rush of fuel…. Like you may be use to whereas when you step on it, it dumps fuel and you wait for the boost to lean it out. That’s not the case here.

I’m sure this is a simply misconception on your part and a lack of explanation on our part. Basically, we logged the engine for about 3 months from March to July stock, this helped us break it in and see how the engine reacts on the day to day and over time. Then after all was said and done with help from our in house engineer we duplicated the same conditions under boost, this allows the engine to remain very close to stock in running and less likely to fail in the long run. We never encounter a rich then lean then rich condition. Those conditions wear an engine faster than you can read all we’ve typed. Nor do we wait for knock to appear before adjusting it; we are calibrated in advance so as to avoid it. If the condition should appear there is redundant safety by both the stock ECU and our Black box.

When we took out the pistons they where golden with little carbon build up, no scoring on the sides and you can see the heat was even around the rings. You can still see the factory etching on the rod bearings and the valves look like news so do the seats. Unless a lifter collapses which hasn’t happen yet we don’t forecast a major problem.

We’re not saying we are smarter than corp. engineers, we’re saying we understand what they’ve done and are able to work with it seamlessly. Once a few units hit the streets and some board members get them installed I’m sure they will explain their experiences and we can further elaborate on this topic. As previously explained when we brought our test mule to our purchasing dealer the general manager not only came out to meet us and take a look, he had his shop foreman bring out the OE scan tool and scan for buried codes, after which he took it for a ride and is having one installed in promotional vehicle.

We have applied for CARB and look forward to passing….

RIPPTECH

 

Well, as I said earlier, believe it or not, I'm not puttin up an argument just for the hell of it. I'm out to learn somethin. You're right in that the two examples I gave are light years behind the technology avaible today. Who knows? Maybe you'll talk ME into buyin one. LOL