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Ripp supercharger questions

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Old 07-16-2008, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
An engine's output is typically measured with what's called "volumetric efficiency". In other words, the engine's output, VS the size in cubic inches. Let's make it easy and say we got a Chevy 350. If that engine puts out 350 horse power, it has a 100% volumetric efficiency rating. Simple enough? Lets say we strap on a roots type blower...which is what the RIPP basically is. When I say "roots" I mean belt driven. I know the RIPP is a little different, but it is the same in principle. Most conventional blowers tyically produce 45-55% more horse power. Again, for simplicity's sake we'll split the difference and say our blower on that 350 is making 50% more than our 350 rated HP. Since our engine already had a volumetric efficiency of 100% to begin with, now we have a total of 150% volumetric efficiency, or 525 hp. The blower is now adding 50% of the engine's naturally aspirated 350HP, which is 175 HP for a total of 525 HP. A roots type blown engine is a funny animal. Cammed, carbed or injected just right and yes, the mileage can go up....sometimes substantially. HOWEVER, this is under NORMAL driving conditions. In other words....with your foot OUT of it. Because the engine has now become so much more efficient, it takes much less of the engine's power to make the same vehicle move. I could go on about better fuel atomization...blah blah blah.....but that's the basic bottom line. It seems the JK engines for some reason, are not responding in the 45-55% normal range of a roots type blower. Maybe because of already high cylinder pressure. Maybe because the factory stretch to yield head bolts are an accident waiting to happen.....I don't know. But for me, to spend 5K on a mod and not have but around a 50 HP increase, is just not a big enough return to justify the cost. The 3.8 is only rated at 202 HP. 50% of that is 101 HP. RIPP claims a 107 HP increase with stock tires and wheels, which may be true. Do you think you can honestly add that much power without consequences? If so, the factory already would have done it. I would spend 5K for a SAFE 50% increase, but these engines just are not designed for an added 107 HP. I don't think they will handle 50 extra HP in the long term very well. ...and I'm talkin more than 100,000 miles. I know one guy iin Macon who has a blown small block in a Camaro. He's had it in that car for at least 18 years. Last I saw him, he had over 95,000 miles on that motor and it was still going strong. The simple fact is, there are parts available to make those engines reliable and strong AND WORTH supercharging. That same scenario just doesn't exist now for the JK engine. You can believe whatever smoke and mirrors advertisement schemes these manufacturers blow at you if you want. To have a successfully built long term supercharged engine, it has to be built for it.
Well the Dyno charts for RIPP, Hesco, and other manufacturers show a boost of 90 to 150 HP. Not sure how they can get away with those claims if all they REALLY give the JK according to your post is 50HP.

Also, 100,000 miles for even a stock JK engine seems like alot to ask. I for one have never owned a car over 75,000 miles so if I get that mileage and 100 plus HP out of the RIPP I would say they met expectations.
Old 07-16-2008, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 08JKWrangler
Well the Dyno charts for RIPP, Hesco, and other manufacturers show a boost of 90 to 150 HP. Not sure how they can get away with those claims if all they REALLY give the JK according to your post is 50HP.

Also, 100,000 miles for even a stock JK engine seems like alot to ask. I for one have never owned a car over 75,000 miles so if I get that mileage and 100 plus HP out of the RIPP I would say they met expectations.
....when I said the 50 HP thing, I was going on what some of the feedback on this forum has been. I admit, I only recently looked at the figures on the RIPP. BUT, all that said, I find it next to impossible that the engine can withstand another 100 horse power without some dire consequences in the long run. They just are not built for it. Lastly....I'll say this too. Most of what I typed is my opinion, I know that. It is FACT though, that these engines were not designed around a supercharger. It is also my opinion that if you are going to put a supercharger on an engine, it should be purpose built with that in mind. Torque to yield head bolts, aluminum heads and composition head gaskets do NOT play well with blowers and turbos. Nothing any manufacturer or vendor says can change that FACT.

Last edited by RedneckJeep; 07-16-2008 at 08:05 AM.
Old 07-16-2008, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
An engine's output is typically measured with what's called "volumetric efficiency". In other words, the engine's output, VS the size in cubic inches. Let's make it easy and say we got a Chevy 350. If that engine puts out 350 horse power, it has a 100% volumetric efficiency rating. Simple enough? Lets say we strap on a roots type blower...which is what the RIPP basically is. When I say "roots" I mean belt driven. I know the RIPP is a little different, but it is the same in principle. Most conventional blowers tyically produce 45-55% more horse power. Again, for simplicity's sake we'll split the difference and say our blower on that 350 is making 50% more than our 350 rated HP. Since our engine already had a volumetric efficiency of 100% to begin with, now we have a total of 150% volumetric efficiency, or 525 hp. The blower is now adding 50% of the engine's naturally aspirated 350HP, which is 175 HP for a total of 525 HP. A roots type blown engine is a funny animal. Cammed, carbed or injected just right and yes, the mileage can go up....sometimes substantially. HOWEVER, this is under NORMAL driving conditions. In other words....with your foot OUT of it. Because the engine has now become so much more efficient, it takes much less of the engine's power to make the same vehicle move. I could go on about better fuel atomization...blah blah blah.....but that's the basic bottom line. It seems the JK engines for some reason, are not responding in the 45-55% normal range of a roots type blower. Maybe because of already high cylinder pressure. Maybe because the factory stretch to yield head bolts are an accident waiting to happen.....I don't know. But for me, to spend 5K on a mod and not have but around a 50 HP increase, is just not a big enough return to justify the cost. The 3.8 is only rated at 202 HP. 50% of that is 101 HP. RIPP claims a 107 HP increase with stock tires and wheels, which may be true. Do you think you can honestly add that much power without consequences? If so, the factory already would have done it. I would spend 5K for a SAFE 50% increase, but these engines just are not designed for an added 107 HP. I don't think they will handle 50 extra HP in the long term very well. ...and I'm talkin more than 100,000 miles. I know one guy iin Macon who has a blown small block in a Camaro. He's had it in that car for at least 18 years. Last I saw him, he had over 95,000 miles on that motor and it was still going strong. The simple fact is, there are parts available to make those engines reliable and strong AND WORTH supercharging. That same scenario just doesn't exist now for the JK engine. You can believe whatever smoke and mirrors advertisement schemes these manufacturers blow at you if you want. To have a successfully built long term supercharged engine, it has to be built for it.
Fact:
• These engine produce 130whp in NA form to the rear wheels which translates to nearly 35% drive train loss. This loss is partially mechanical (auto trans, electronic slipping torque converter, ECU power control through the drive by wire and the weight of the DANA 44 rear axles) and not 202 that the manufactures rates it at.
• You’re paying $4299.95 for 110whp which actually translates to 150+HP or 350hp at the crank.
• These engines are low compression not high compression
• We know cam angle, valve size, piston to wall, deck height and ring gap which we use to build a power program we didn’t guess.
• We logged every sensor in the vehicle in stock form, then with larger tires then with gears, and duplicated the sensory with the SC in place and our electronics controlling it.
• The factory ecu will retard timing and adjust fuel based on variables introduced by the blower alone. However your correct it is not equipped to do so - We keep them properly trimmed with our electronics package.
• We tested for collectively nearly 40000 miles on three separate vehicles without consequence.

• A Roots type supercharger is this please read about it http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roots_blower



•a Centrifugal supercharger is this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrif...e_supercharger please read about it.


A Roots type blower slams the engine with boost at low RPM and then becomes an anchor at the higher RPM requiring more crank HP to spin it than its worth. A Centrifugal blower is slower to spool from 1000 rpm but is dynamic in its boost delivery and very predictable to drive. In fact the blower is seamless in its boost delivery - the engine simply feels larger in displacement rather than "boosted".

• We’ve done before and after compression testing after our own 30000 miles with nearly no loss at all, other than expected loss.
• Engines in the modern era can often double their WHP with 5-10psi based on volumetric efficiency, which is what a centrifugal SC loves. In this case based on our pulley selection this engine represents an average volumetric efficiency, which means we don’t have to over spin the blower to reach the desired boost levels. Furthermore we elected to use a larger than needed blower to take advantage of the air volume and not just boost.
• This - for arguments sake - is not a Chevy 350 OR EVEN CLOSE, lets not use “round” numbers, we can use REAL numbers because we have them.
• Your math does not at all in any way conform or comply with this engine’s characteristics.

Lastly, we have a powerful Mitsubishi program; it being a 3.8l with variable over head cams. With 8psi a header and 3in exhaust we bring the WHP from 219 to 430whp and 385lb/ft of torque safely and have been 100 kits later since 2006. That engine is very volumetrically efficient and is being so we can build that power with less SC rpm and a smaller blower.

RIPPTECH

Last edited by RIPPMODS; 07-16-2008 at 11:25 AM.
Old 07-16-2008, 11:32 AM
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are the stock injectors/ fuel pump up to the task with the extra hp? also, how are you guys tuning the PCM to pull timing under WOT and adjust the power enrichment? thanks.
Old 07-16-2008, 11:56 AM
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The computer Chrysler has put into the JK is adaptive. ie....

It will " LEARN" how you like to drive it ! ie... GRANDMA or LIKE YOU STOLE IT !!

It will "LEARN" what to do to correct any and all abnormalities. ie.... TIMING or BOOST !!



In addition..... If you are getting crappy gas mileage and you " have been driving your JK like you stole it" ..... Disconnect your Battery for 10 minutes... then reconnect.... " resetting the computer "..... NOW ...Drive it like a Grandma and you will continue to get better fuel economy after the 3rd fill up because you have " RE- TAUGHT" the computer your new driving style.
Old 07-16-2008, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by alz06
are the stock injectors/ fuel pump up to the task with the extra hp? also, how are you guys tuning the PCM to pull timing under WOT and adjust the power enrichment? thanks.
Fuel injectors and pump are up to the task… if you keep the ECU in a “happy” place, we do this by piggy backing our proprietary electronics to the ECU and correcting as needed. Timing is retarded and advanced as needed under boosted conditions, we provide you with a 2.4bar map sensor to keep an eye on it, as well as keep an eye on the factory one.

Originally Posted by HULKGREEN
The computer Chrysler has put into the JK is adaptive. ie....

It will " LEARN" how you like to drive it ! ie... GRANDMA or LIKE YOU STOLE IT !!

It will "LEARN" what to do to correct any and all abnormalities. ie.... TIMING or BOOST !!



In addition..... If you are getting crappy gas mileage and you " have been driving your JK like you stole it" ..... Disconnect your Battery for 10 minutes... then reconnect.... " resetting the computer "..... NOW ...Drive it like a Grandma and you will continue to get better fuel economy after the 3rd fill up because you have " RE- TAUGHT" the computer your new driving style.
Thank….. you however this is not exactly the way things work, your ECU stores things past 10mins in fact there adaptive computer is always on and always adjusting regardless of how long the battery is disconnected.

In order to start from scratch you would have to go to the dealer and have the TIPUM reset or cleared and then things are from ground up.

The ECU does adapt to certain conditions but positive manifold pressure (boost) isn’t one of them, that’s where we come in, by correcting sensory in the ECU we can make the ECU work like stock while providing fuel economy and power. We use digitally proportioned supplemental injection, whereas our injectors fire at precisely the right same time as the factory units delivering only what is needed for enrichment. There is never an over boost or fuel condition because the primary injectors are retained and used as needed. Once you’re out of boost you aren’t using anymore fuel than before, but since there is a steady flow of ready available air its more efficient.

RIPPTECH
Old 07-16-2008, 03:17 PM
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Thank you RIPPMODS !

Sorry I did not get everything exactly !! It was kinda in laymans terms..... the same way it was explained to me by my " FRIENDS" @ Chrysler

The fuel economy " trick " really worked for me thru the process of trial and error !!!! With the price of gasoline; I had to give it a try !!

Last edited by HULKGREEN; 07-16-2008 at 03:21 PM.
Old 07-16-2008, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HULKGREEN
Thank you RIPPMODS !

Sorry I did not get everything exactly !! It was kinda in laymans terms..... the same way it was explained to me by my " FRIENDS" @ Chrysler

The fuel economy " trick " really worked for me thru the process of trial and error !!!! With the price of gasoline; I had to give it a try !!
Well I can't say that it doesn't work, but if it does it may be a mind over matter.. thing....you know as you reset it you may try to drive more and more efficient until you've maximized the way you drive?

Its funny when we set out to build this kit we originally wanted more power... when we stumbled upon the fuel economy we had to turn in that direction out of princable. I'm glad we did because its makes the kit more cost "justifiable"... in a way..... that and I love being able to pump 87 in and still have extra power.

RIPPTECH
Old 07-16-2008, 05:15 PM
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After reading this thread I went to your website, read everything, and watched the videos. Looking at the computer displays of HP and torque I wonder how useable they are. In the mountains of Colorado it would be nice to have a meaningful increase at, say 2600 rpm. That is my rpm going down the freeway at 75 (with 35's and 5.13's). What difference would I notice there.

Now getting on the freeway or passing somebody on the freeway I can see where thepower curve shown would help immensly because you are in lower gears and in that higher rpm range.

You mention the Mitsu 3.8. Is there any commonality between the engines so that information derived from the Mitsu would be applicable to our engine.

Has anybody pushed these engines to the lmit to see what they will take and when they will give up? Is it possible to do any mods that will improve longevity without complete disassembly (new headbolts, hi cap oil pump etc)?
Old 07-16-2008, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HULKGREEN
The computer Chrysler has put into the JK is adaptive. ie....

It will " LEARN" how you like to drive it ! ie... GRANDMA or LIKE YOU STOLE IT !!

It will "LEARN" what to do to correct any and all abnormalities. ie.... TIMING or BOOST !!



In addition..... If you are getting crappy gas mileage and you " have been driving your JK like you stole it" ..... Disconnect your Battery for 10 minutes... then reconnect.... " resetting the computer "..... NOW ...Drive it like a Grandma and you will continue to get better fuel economy after the 3rd fill up because you have " RE- TAUGHT" the computer your new driving style.
i know exactly how a PCM works, but it does not work as you desribed. the fatory computer will learn to a certain extent but can only compensate so much. for instance, do you think if you throw a good size cam in the computer will learn? no it will not, that is were a custom tune comes into play. i have been tunning ls cars for some time now and have pretty good knowledge on how it works.


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