RIPP Gen II Issues
12-16-2011, 01:27 PM
#131
JK Freak
Join Date: Dec 2007
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My Jeep was totally out of commission yesterday due to what I believe was a vacuum leak. Called Ross at 9a and began going through a list of possible issues and began the process of checking and re-checking everything. During this, I found that the old ripped lower EGR gasket left a little bit of material around the engine and was preventing the new gasket from making a tight seal. Also, I found that the intake plenum (manifold) bolts had come loose. Tightened everything up and unfortunately the motor was pretty much flooded with fuel. I then pulled the plugs three different times to dry and air out, and finally at 5p she roared to life!
Now that the vacuum leaks have been (hopefully) addressed, the Jeep fires up nice and strong! Before she used to creep to life, and would periodically exhibit the 3 crank start, but it appears that doesnt happen anymore. I just applied the 3.3 tune this afternoon and my preliminary thoughts are positive.
I want to give my sincere thanks and gratitude to Ross @ Ripp. I'm sure we'll run into each other one day and I owe you a beer, if not a case! I called at least four times and everytime I'd pick his brain for what to do next. Without him, I'd still be stuck in my driveway. And to everyone else, I urge that you use blue loctite on the intake bolts! If your Jeep exhibits hesitation or rough starts, it very well may be vacuum related.
Now that the vacuum leaks have been (hopefully) addressed, the Jeep fires up nice and strong! Before she used to creep to life, and would periodically exhibit the 3 crank start, but it appears that doesnt happen anymore. I just applied the 3.3 tune this afternoon and my preliminary thoughts are positive.
I want to give my sincere thanks and gratitude to Ross @ Ripp. I'm sure we'll run into each other one day and I owe you a beer, if not a case! I called at least four times and everytime I'd pick his brain for what to do next. Without him, I'd still be stuck in my driveway. And to everyone else, I urge that you use blue loctite on the intake bolts! If your Jeep exhibits hesitation or rough starts, it very well may be vacuum related.
12-16-2011, 02:35 PM
#132
JK Junkie
Join Date: May 2008
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I remember doing just that as I thought it was mentioned in the instructions or tips I had read. Good idea though.
Mine has perfect vacuum and 9psi of boost. In my case it is (was) 100% tune and MAP related. About to hit the highway on my way to some off-roading tomorrow - hopefully all will go well. 
Glad to hear you got things sorted out in short order.
Glad to hear you got things sorted out in short order.
12-16-2011, 11:28 PM
#134
JK Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Howdy Neighbor!! yep, been running the Ripp for quite awhile now. I have one of the first Gen2's out and about. The intercooler wasn't even available yet when I installed mine and was able to do everything in stages (SC, intercooler, headers/y pipe). Would be good to get together and compare notes and such.....or just wheel! 
I read your post with great interest and look forward to our Vortec rebuild thread.
On a side note, are you able to monitor your intake air temp? I was looking for someone local (similar enviroment) to compare with since I did the cowl induction.
I read your post with great interest and look forward to our Vortec rebuild thread.
On a side note, are you able to monitor your intake air temp? I was looking for someone local (similar enviroment) to compare with since I did the cowl induction.
12-21-2011, 08:47 AM
#136
Sponsoring Manufacturer
The first 3.3 tune was for a 3 bar MAP. RIPP sent me a new 3.3 tune for a 2 bar MAP.
I am now starting to think all of this was the MAP sensor and a TC that was not locking up.
None the less, its going for a few data logging passes to see if I can spot anything as soon as I figure out how to interface a wide band o2 to the analog input of the Trinity tuner.
But yeah my current 3.2 tune is working pretty well. I went to a 2 step colder plug since the one step colder still looked a bit too light tan. I prefer my heat range on hot runners be showing a dark brown on the insulator. I have also ordered a hotter coil so I can put the gap back out to factory spec without spark snuf out.
Which leads me to a side note, I carbon tracked a spark plug. This rare occurrence happens when the spark cannot jump the gap in the plug and fires from the top of the tower down the outside of the insulator and grounds on the base because of contaminants or even air in the spark plug boot. Eventually it leaves a track that conducts and causes a misfire.
Well one of my misfire issues was caused by that plug that otherwise looked good but would have snuck by if it were not for the fact that I could actually hear the snapping of the spark one day grounding out on the header.
So if you have weird hesitation issues or random misfires be sure to check your plugs for carbon tracks. If you find them you have to replace the plug and wire (the wire will develop one as well. The misfiring plug will throw the tune rich and cause all sorts of weirdness.
Gaping the plugs to .32 is important or the spark will find its way to ground a lot faster on the outside of the plug. This is because it takes more voltage to jump a gap under 200PSI or more than it is to jump a 6 inch gap at 14.7 PSI (1 atmosphere). So it sneaks down the side of your spark plugs.
Carbon tracking is visible. It looks like a crack on the insulator. But it is not. You can scrape it off but the cracks are what causes carbon tracks as well. Contaminants on the plug don't help matters and air around it gets ionized and starts conducting.
I have had plugs carbon track now. The use of Dielectric grease helps stop this. I did not have any at the time but since I have been using it now like I am suppose to, the problem has not reoccurred.
So for you guys with the hiccups, that might be a good place to look.
I am now starting to think all of this was the MAP sensor and a TC that was not locking up.
None the less, its going for a few data logging passes to see if I can spot anything as soon as I figure out how to interface a wide band o2 to the analog input of the Trinity tuner.
But yeah my current 3.2 tune is working pretty well. I went to a 2 step colder plug since the one step colder still looked a bit too light tan. I prefer my heat range on hot runners be showing a dark brown on the insulator. I have also ordered a hotter coil so I can put the gap back out to factory spec without spark snuf out.
Which leads me to a side note, I carbon tracked a spark plug. This rare occurrence happens when the spark cannot jump the gap in the plug and fires from the top of the tower down the outside of the insulator and grounds on the base because of contaminants or even air in the spark plug boot. Eventually it leaves a track that conducts and causes a misfire.
Well one of my misfire issues was caused by that plug that otherwise looked good but would have snuck by if it were not for the fact that I could actually hear the snapping of the spark one day grounding out on the header.
So if you have weird hesitation issues or random misfires be sure to check your plugs for carbon tracks. If you find them you have to replace the plug and wire (the wire will develop one as well. The misfiring plug will throw the tune rich and cause all sorts of weirdness.
Gaping the plugs to .32 is important or the spark will find its way to ground a lot faster on the outside of the plug. This is because it takes more voltage to jump a gap under 200PSI or more than it is to jump a 6 inch gap at 14.7 PSI (1 atmosphere). So it sneaks down the side of your spark plugs.
Carbon tracking is visible. It looks like a crack on the insulator. But it is not. You can scrape it off but the cracks are what causes carbon tracks as well. Contaminants on the plug don't help matters and air around it gets ionized and starts conducting.
I have had plugs carbon track now. The use of Dielectric grease helps stop this. I did not have any at the time but since I have been using it now like I am suppose to, the problem has not reoccurred.
So for you guys with the hiccups, that might be a good place to look.
There are variables everywhere and we can't see them all through a log or a phone call. Even if 99% of our clients can simply plug and play their kits and run properly and we make a kit nearly anyone can install, there's still the end user/vehicle variables one has to be aware of.
We have mentioned this before. Your experience is with just one misfiring plug - which resulted in an unresponsive vehicle. Not only will it misfire, it will also dumb down the power because the adaptive's will balance the tune (fuel and timing) to both banks, and cut throttle response down a bit as well. Its a really smart system and its the reason we leave the emission variables on... It makes a for a safer vehicle.
RIPPTECH
01-07-2012, 06:56 AM
#137
JK Junkie
Join Date: May 2008
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There are variables everywhere and we can't see them all through a log or a phone call. Even if 99% of our clients can simply plug and play their kits and run properly and we make a kit nearly anyone can install, there's still the end user/vehicle variables one has to be aware of.
We have mentioned this before. Your experience is with just one misfiring plug - which resulted in an unresponsive vehicle. Not only will it misfire, it will also dumb down the power because the adaptive's will balance the tune (fuel and timing) to both banks, and cut throttle response down a bit as well. Its a really smart system and its the reason we leave the emission variables on... It makes a for a safer vehicle.
RIPPTECH
We have mentioned this before. Your experience is with just one misfiring plug - which resulted in an unresponsive vehicle. Not only will it misfire, it will also dumb down the power because the adaptive's will balance the tune (fuel and timing) to both banks, and cut throttle response down a bit as well. Its a really smart system and its the reason we leave the emission variables on... It makes a for a safer vehicle.
RIPPTECH
Nonetheless, thank you for hanging in there with me - I believe a significant milestone has been achieved with RIPP's recent corrective actions especially as related to the kit's performance peculiarities.
P.S. - Don't throw in the towel on the cruise control surging though as a friend of mine (a former Chrysler engineer who worked on the ECM) said it was a fairly simple system control design, and he was surprised you guys hadn't "unraveled" it yet. By the way, on a recent trip I could feel the surge and watch it on my Boost/Vacuum gauge. At 70 mph, I would be around -8 vacuum and would drop -7, -6, . . . , -1, till I hit 0 vacuum, then quickly rise up to -8 and start over again, and again, and again, the same phenomenon would repeat with the same see-saw sensation of surge, back off, surge, back off. As soon as I hit a little rise in the interstate, I'd drop to 0 vacuum, hold, and surge would disappear. Saw and felt the surge more on long flat sections of road. Hope this helps.
01-09-2012, 09:03 PM
#138
JK Enthusiast
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My 6spd is experiencing some mild hesitation - almost like a momentary drop out during moderate acceleration (these are in the tenths of a second kind of sensation - very brief). Also something is askew when I first start the Jeep in the morning until engine warms up, and apparently unlike others, I lost fuel economy. Good news is RIPP has addressed the 3-crank start issue for many of us, as well as lessened the severity of surging while in cruise control.
As it stands at the moment, yes I have more power, but I also have quirks that were not present prior to the supercharger install. RIPP is working with me, but I have had my problems since April of this year. I have heard everything from I'm using contaminated fuel, to my manifolds must be cracked, to damaged spark plug wires. Also have been told several times since April that my vehicle is the only one in the world with these issues - very depressing (With those odds I should probably go buy a lotto ticket).
RIPP has not abandoned me though, and is continuing to seek a solution that will sort this all out (we're actually in the middle of some "tweaks" at the moment). Hopefully I'll have good news to report in the near future.
As it stands at the moment, yes I have more power, but I also have quirks that were not present prior to the supercharger install. RIPP is working with me, but I have had my problems since April of this year. I have heard everything from I'm using contaminated fuel, to my manifolds must be cracked, to damaged spark plug wires. Also have been told several times since April that my vehicle is the only one in the world with these issues - very depressing (With those odds I should probably go buy a lotto ticket).
RIPP has not abandoned me though, and is continuing to seek a solution that will sort this all out (we're actually in the middle of some "tweaks" at the moment). Hopefully I'll have good news to report in the near future.
I know i have been away for a while duty called. I am finding my fuel econamy has droped alot as well, and some hesitation. but the 3.2 fixed my 3 crank start. I have to let the jeep warm up in the morning or i get a huge hesitaton when i go from 1st to 2nd gear.
what does the 3.3 fix and should i switch to it.
01-10-2012, 05:35 AM
#139
JK Freak
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^^^Who knows what secret sauce RIPP put in 3.3 but I can tell you this, for me, it made my rig run like poo. It had starting issues, did not idle well at times and just felt sluggish.
3.2 is a beast on my rig. There is still a faint surge going on but I am convinced that it is being caused by a transition area with the bypass valve. Going to try a different valve in the future but for now my rig runs very well and I can live with the slight surge by just pressing the gas more. I am going to stick with 3.2 unless RIPP has an Epiphany and figures out the cruise control issue and I might upgrade again.
3.2 is a beast on my rig. There is still a faint surge going on but I am convinced that it is being caused by a transition area with the bypass valve. Going to try a different valve in the future but for now my rig runs very well and I can live with the slight surge by just pressing the gas more. I am going to stick with 3.2 unless RIPP has an Epiphany and figures out the cruise control issue and I might upgrade again.
It may be my imagination but I think I feel a slight hesitation each time my JK tries to shift in the 2100rpm area. Like you said, all I need to do is mash the pledal a little more and she takes off. Is this what you are referring to or is it more of a raising and lowering of rpm type thing?
As for cruize control. Is the issue when your running around 65mph. I have not experienced an issue yet but I have not put many miles on this SC. I tried my cruize at 60mph. Seemed fine at that speed.
01-10-2012, 06:15 AM
#140
JK Freak
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I know i have been away for a while duty called. I am finding my fuel econamy has droped alot as well, and some hesitation. but the 3.2 fixed my 3 crank start. I have to let the jeep warm up in the morning or i get a huge hesitaton when i go from 1st to 2nd gear.
what does the 3.3 fix and should i switch to it.
what does the 3.3 fix and should i switch to it.
You are the second person that has said the RIPP supercharger killed their MPGs. Is this a common issue? I thought it was supposed to help.