RIPP Gen II Issues
#112
JK Junkie
Join Date: May 2008
Location: North Alabama
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Haven't heard about the new 3.3 tune yet - what is it supposed to do?
#113
JK Junkie
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MAP sensors work off a chip that bends. As it bends the voltage changes. Technically all of them should bend at the same rate for the same pressure applied to them. If they do they will all scale voltage at the same rate. If one bends differently, its voltage will scale differently and the tune will be skewed.
A simple test to check a MAP is to check the resistance across it with a super accurate ohm meter and then check it up against a known good one. Every one of them should read the same. If one is different it is assumed to be bad. But no one really ever checks to see if they scale voltage the same exact way and that is not something one can easily do. You can easily slide your tune around to compensate for the base reading of the MAP but if it scales voltage too fast or too slow from what the tune was written for then it wont work right.
So lets say starting voltage of the MAP should be .5v and at 8PSI it should read 1v. Well if the ending voltage was 1.2v then the tune would be completely screwed as it would not know what to do with the erroneous data it was being fed.
A simple test to check a MAP is to check the resistance across it with a super accurate ohm meter and then check it up against a known good one. Every one of them should read the same. If one is different it is assumed to be bad. But no one really ever checks to see if they scale voltage the same exact way and that is not something one can easily do. You can easily slide your tune around to compensate for the base reading of the MAP but if it scales voltage too fast or too slow from what the tune was written for then it wont work right.
So lets say starting voltage of the MAP should be .5v and at 8PSI it should read 1v. Well if the ending voltage was 1.2v then the tune would be completely screwed as it would not know what to do with the erroneous data it was being fed.
By the way, speaking of MAP sensors, are we using a 2 bar or 3 bar sensor in our RIPP kits? Anyone?
#114
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bend, Oregon
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I would certainly say your on the right track seeing that the problem lies either directly in the TC or the 3-4 clutch pack as you well know. It is hard to determine which causes what. Although Jeep Chrysler is fully aware of the problem I wasn't told what causes the problem. When I get back I'll talk to the tech who rebuilt mine and see if I can get any answers.
I don't know really how my jeep is driving other than what my brother has told me. Initially it had a hesitation in the 2-3 shift, but went away in 30 miles. I was told it shifts correctly now, but there has only been 100 miles on it. I don't fully know if the TC is locking up or not. I can only assume it is. I'm hoping it's sold by the time I get back. I've got my eye on a 5.7 Hemi AEV conversion right now.
I don't know really how my jeep is driving other than what my brother has told me. Initially it had a hesitation in the 2-3 shift, but went away in 30 miles. I was told it shifts correctly now, but there has only been 100 miles on it. I don't fully know if the TC is locking up or not. I can only assume it is. I'm hoping it's sold by the time I get back. I've got my eye on a 5.7 Hemi AEV conversion right now.
#115
I think our auto transmissions always shifted oddly. Getting more power in front of them just makes it more obvious. I feel some strange things happening occasionally, sort of like double shifts if I change throttle positions when accelerating, and I can definitely tell when the TC is locking up (the RPM will drop as you say). On my 2011 the trans programming is not altered since I have piggy back electronics, and no actual ECU tuning.
So, you are saying that your TC never locked up, and your 3-4 clutch pack was always working. The constant slipping and RPM changes without lockup give you the sensation of a surge, correct? With the TC not locking up, this burns your 3-4 clutch out?
Hope that makes sense, it's late.
So, you are saying that your TC never locked up, and your 3-4 clutch pack was always working. The constant slipping and RPM changes without lockup give you the sensation of a surge, correct? With the TC not locking up, this burns your 3-4 clutch out?
Hope that makes sense, it's late.
#116
Just wanted to do an initial 'chime-in' on this thread outside of the one I posted a few days ago. Before I begin, I want to make it clear that I'm 100% satisfied with the kit and would recommend it to anyone who's trying to move 35's and armor around every day. The power wakes the Jeep up and is very addictive. My issues are very minor in comparison to the accomplishments this kit brings to the table. Also, these issues are NOTHING compared to the other turbo / supercharger bolt-on kits I've had on my previous vehicles. The Jeep is perfectly fine to drive daily, and is a real joy to drive now.
The install went smoothly (as can be). I read the documentation over and over, reviewed every thread, and watched the youtube install video before going in, and it took me two days to complete the project by myself. I could’ve completed it in six hours, but I chose to take my time and I double/triple checked everything. One thing nobody ever mentioned was how much of a BITCH removing/installing anything near the firewall is. The pass side plenum bolt, the pass side spark plug, the middle and lower EGR bolts, drivers side rear injector clip, etc etc. The part that I thought would be the hardest (injectors) turned out to be the easiest. The part I thought'd be the easiest (everything else) was hard.
Anyways, Ross and his crew returned my custom tune back to me on Saturday (THANK YOU) and I immediately noticed a few issues. Triple crank warm start in cold weather, surging at part throttle ~2k, and my transmission hunting for gears at WOT.
I adjusted the BPV to 1/8" showing (1.5 threads), put on 100 miles since the install, and the surging has calmed down quite a bit. If I drive normally, trying to stay @ ~65-70mph 1.75k RPM, I can feel it surging slightly. My 5yr old daughter and I exhibited signs of sea-sickness after a 25 mile trip down county. To combat the surging, I turned the OD off and kept my RPM's over 2k. Not ideal for fuel economy, but I'd probably puke if I hadn’t. I'm pretty sure this issue has to do with the transmission and ECU not knowing if it should lock/unlock the TC.
I'll contact RIPP after I put on another 100 miles on it. I'm hoping the ECU will adapt and learn a little more.
In the meantime, Bubba, can you please teach me how to adjust my throttle sensitivity / VE mappings?
The install went smoothly (as can be). I read the documentation over and over, reviewed every thread, and watched the youtube install video before going in, and it took me two days to complete the project by myself. I could’ve completed it in six hours, but I chose to take my time and I double/triple checked everything. One thing nobody ever mentioned was how much of a BITCH removing/installing anything near the firewall is. The pass side plenum bolt, the pass side spark plug, the middle and lower EGR bolts, drivers side rear injector clip, etc etc. The part that I thought would be the hardest (injectors) turned out to be the easiest. The part I thought'd be the easiest (everything else) was hard.
Anyways, Ross and his crew returned my custom tune back to me on Saturday (THANK YOU) and I immediately noticed a few issues. Triple crank warm start in cold weather, surging at part throttle ~2k, and my transmission hunting for gears at WOT.
I adjusted the BPV to 1/8" showing (1.5 threads), put on 100 miles since the install, and the surging has calmed down quite a bit. If I drive normally, trying to stay @ ~65-70mph 1.75k RPM, I can feel it surging slightly. My 5yr old daughter and I exhibited signs of sea-sickness after a 25 mile trip down county. To combat the surging, I turned the OD off and kept my RPM's over 2k. Not ideal for fuel economy, but I'd probably puke if I hadn’t. I'm pretty sure this issue has to do with the transmission and ECU not knowing if it should lock/unlock the TC.
I'll contact RIPP after I put on another 100 miles on it. I'm hoping the ECU will adapt and learn a little more.
In the meantime, Bubba, can you please teach me how to adjust my throttle sensitivity / VE mappings?
#117
Just ordered my Ripp SC today. I have been reading this thread since it started and I have been somewhat hesitant to make my purchase in fear of being one of the unlucky people to have issues with this system. Biggest concern being I have an automatic. I appreciate all the conversations between those of you that really know your stuff. I am learning a lot. Looking forward to doing the install.
#118
Just ordered my Ripp SC today. I have been reading this thread since it started and I have been somewhat hesitant to make my purchase in fear of being one of the unlucky people to have issues with this system. Biggest concern being I have an automatic. I appreciate all the conversations between those of you that really know your stuff. I am learning a lot. Looking forward to doing the install.
#119
I have watched the video and they make it look easy. But they look to be working on a JK that was not lifted. I'm sitting 4" higher so I can see that slowin things down. I also had the same concerns of the injectors being a pain but after your comment I am no longer worried about that. Just everythng else. LOL
I'm not in a big rush so I will take my time doing it as you did. Thanks for the offer!!!
#120
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Changing out the injectors isn't really that hard. It just looks scary. The hardest part of it is taking off and put back on the egr piping. The best way to get to the lower two bolts are to take the tire and wheel off first. Take a long attachment with a swivel socket. When you put it back on make sure you use a little anti seize on it. Helps getting the bolts back in. Make sure there isn't any leakage at the egr joints.
Take your time and have fun with it.
Take your time and have fun with it.