RIPP COLD AIR INTAKE & RiverRaider Snorkel
#21
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Airaid ubuildit
Not tryin to hijack the thread: I saw the mention of a hard pipe.
I don't know if this helps but didn't see it mentioned:
Airaid has a u-build-it (UBI) kit https://www.airaid.com/U-Build-It_intake_systems.aspx and I was watching this thread thinking to use one with a similar setup to this, instead of the flexible hose (I have a 2013) since I already have the u-buildit from a grandcherokee wk project a few years ago along with a few spectre couplers. Based on the path used in the installation diagram for the flexible set I think that the biggest deal is that you have to pull the tube to get to the battery, but it looks like even with a power interrupt it would fit and the terminals access would still be unaffected.
I don't know if this helps but didn't see it mentioned:
Airaid has a u-build-it (UBI) kit https://www.airaid.com/U-Build-It_intake_systems.aspx and I was watching this thread thinking to use one with a similar setup to this, instead of the flexible hose (I have a 2013) since I already have the u-buildit from a grandcherokee wk project a few years ago along with a few spectre couplers. Based on the path used in the installation diagram for the flexible set I think that the biggest deal is that you have to pull the tube to get to the battery, but it looks like even with a power interrupt it would fit and the terminals access would still be unaffected.
#22
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Have you got any pics of how the flex pipe is ran from the filter to the snorkel? I have the river raider cast aluminum snorkel, the RIPP cold air kit and the 3.6L. And have been thinking about how to run the pipe before I install the snorkel. Thanks!
#23
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#24
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Yes that's exactly what I was looking for, does the fuse box get moved over in the river raider instructions or did you do that to suit your needs with the RIPP kit?
#25
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That would be us tailoring the two systems to each other. The instructions on the snorkel actually utilize the factory air box and make many more crazy bends. A simple cut, scoot and re racing of the fuse box allows for a less resistant path.
Honestly I'm surprised nobody makes a snorkel/intake kit that hard pipes and incorporates all the good stuff into one deal.
Maybe I should hop on that... Haha
#26
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#27
Very possible, however it's not the distance from the snorkel to the filter that matters it's the distance to the engine intake. Running the conduit along the engine would either heat up the conduit and possibly melt it.
I'll be replacing the corrugated hose with aluminum conduit soon enough to rid the path of the drag from the ridges in the hose as well as all of the couplings and change in air path size.
I'll be replacing the corrugated hose with aluminum conduit soon enough to rid the path of the drag from the ridges in the hose as well as all of the couplings and change in air path size.
A possible and easy solution is to wrap the Aluminum pipe with a heat insulating layer.
This may also make it more practical to mount the pipe nearer the engine.
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Ooops... now I see that Jeepstin12 said about the same...
Last edited by GJeep; 01-19-2015 at 12:53 PM.
#28
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That would be us tailoring the two systems to each other. The instructions on the snorkel actually utilize the factory air box and make many more crazy bends. A simple cut, scoot and re racing of the fuse box allows for a less resistant path. Honestly I'm surprised nobody makes a snorkel/intake kit that hard pipes and incorporates all the good stuff into one deal. Maybe I should hop on that... Haha