Ride has suddenly deteriorated????????????
#21
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Lakewood, WA
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would lean toward looking at the shocks. The large tires are going to deflect your springs more than smaller tires due to their weight. Greater spring compression is going to increase the amount of rebound. The OP mentioned it seems to happen when he hits a serious of bumps; this could be due to an amplification effect caused by the frequency of repeated compressions. Simply put, the shocks may be struggling to dampen the springs.
#22
Forum Tech Advisor
Because the OP stated that the ride was fine for 2k miles after the drop brackets were installed, and then it suddenly deteriorated, something is either loose or failed--assuming the tire psi is the same it was for the prior 2k miles.
It is either failed or worn ball joints, polyurethane RK bushings, unit bearings, etc., or it is loose bolts or ovaled bracket bolt holes for control arms, trackbar, or swaybar links.
If it were shock valving, spring rates, swaybar stiffness, etc., it wouldn't have been fine for 2k miles and then suddenly go bad.
It is either failed or worn ball joints, polyurethane RK bushings, unit bearings, etc., or it is loose bolts or ovaled bracket bolt holes for control arms, trackbar, or swaybar links.
If it were shock valving, spring rates, swaybar stiffness, etc., it wouldn't have been fine for 2k miles and then suddenly go bad.
#23
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Lakewood, WA
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Because the OP stated that the ride was fine for 2k miles after the drop brackets were installed, and then it suddenly deteriorated, something is either loose or failed--assuming the tire psi is the same it was for the prior 2k miles.
It is either failed or worn ball joints, polyurethane RK bushings, unit bearings, etc., or it is loose bolts or ovaled bracket bolt holes for control arms, trackbar, or swaybar links.
If it were shock valving, spring rates, swaybar stiffness, etc., it wouldn't have been fine for 2k miles and then suddenly go bad.
It is either failed or worn ball joints, polyurethane RK bushings, unit bearings, etc., or it is loose bolts or ovaled bracket bolt holes for control arms, trackbar, or swaybar links.
If it were shock valving, spring rates, swaybar stiffness, etc., it wouldn't have been fine for 2k miles and then suddenly go bad.
#25
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Irvine
Posts: 959
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Because the OP stated that the ride was fine for 2k miles after the drop brackets were installed, and then it suddenly deteriorated, something is either loose or failed--assuming the tire psi is the same it was for the prior 2k miles.
It is either failed or worn ball joints, polyurethane RK bushings, unit bearings, etc., or it is loose bolts or ovaled bracket bolt holes for control arms, trackbar, or swaybar links.
If it were shock valving, spring rates, swaybar stiffness, etc., it wouldn't have been fine for 2k miles and then suddenly go bad.
It is either failed or worn ball joints, polyurethane RK bushings, unit bearings, etc., or it is loose bolts or ovaled bracket bolt holes for control arms, trackbar, or swaybar links.
If it were shock valving, spring rates, swaybar stiffness, etc., it wouldn't have been fine for 2k miles and then suddenly go bad.
I did disconnect the sway bar during normal driving and it actually did help a tiny bit. Now just need to see if I can replace these with some HD units.
Thanks guys
#27
Forum Tech Advisor
Well, the shop told me that the drag end links and the outer tie rods are gone (Bushings). I have only put 3k on the Jeep after the lift. They turned the wheel back and forth and you could actually hear a little popping noise. Does anyone know if there are HD aftermarket units? I would hate to go through this every 3k miles. The Ball Joints were fine (I expect to go through those in the next 10k).
I did disconnect the sway bar during normal driving and it actually did help a tiny bit. Now just need to see if I can replace these with some HD units.
Thanks guys
With a 5.5" lift and 3" or more front extended bumpstops, you should run a flipped drag link.
Either a RK or Synergy drag link and tie rod combo would work well for you.
#29
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Irvine
Posts: 959
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I do have the Drag link flip kit that came with the RK 5.5, they are telling me the bushings are worn out on the end?
#30
Forum Tech Advisor