Seabee CMC

I think it is time to replace my front drive shaft on my 07, 2 door. I have a 2.5" lift and running 37 MTR's with a manual transmission. What is the recommendation of using the original flange or should I change to yokes on the diff and transfer case? What is the difference between 1310 and 1350 that I see sometimes. Any recommendations on a brand to switch to?

jnabird333

You do not want a slip yoke on the T-case. the YJs were this way and one of the most common mods out there are to remove it.

The 1310 and 1350 refers to the size of U-joint, 1350 being larger and stronger. There is debate about which is better. (But remember the only stock u-joint you have on your shafts is a 1330 so the 1310 jointed shaft is actually weaker than a stock one.) Some like it this way as they feel thy have a "fuse" that is easy to fix on the trail. Some will also comment on the reduced flex on the larger 1350 joint but this point is mute on a JK as 99% of them will never flex to the point that this becomes an issue. Personally I prefer 1350 jointed shafts but did labor on coming to this decision.

karls

I find jnabird333's response to be a little out of line with what the manufacturer's and other wheelers are saying. Yes, a u-joint is a fuse and it should be a limiting factor since it's much easier to replace that on a trail than it is to replace (for example) a ring gear. If you blow out the u-joint then you're likely to also waste the yoke or elongate the ears. That's a point for a different day.

The 1310 vs 1350 though is something that most people would agree you're fine with the 1310 unless you're high horsepower or 40"+ tires. The 1350 will bind up and does not operate in the same degree range that the 1310 would.

He hit a solid point though that 99% of the owners will never get into that zone of flex and it's true since most owners just drive these on the roads and only hit a trail once or twice a year. The amount of time they spend on the trail is not overly long and of the time they spend on the trail, only a few seconds are ever at that extreme of an angle that the joint would bind up and either snap something or prevent further progress.

The decision is yours.

jnabird333

I'm aware of this, but where I wheel you often need to use more wheel speed than finesse and the 1310s weren't holding up to the sudden finding of traction. Many of the 2-doors I wheel with haven't had issues but the added weight of a JKU seems to task the 1310s even with 35s with the heavy gassers. Many of the guys I run with have now switched to 1350s. If you can wheel with finesse the 1310s will likely be more than you will ever need but they are weaker than the stock joints.

Completely agreed and another reason I find the fuse point somewhat invalid and went with the 1350s

.....

Again the stock joints are a Rzeppa at the T-case (VERY strong) and a 1330 u-joint at the diff. Why would you want a shaft that is weaker than the stocker to turn larger tires? (Other than to save coin?)

Seabee CMC

I appreciate the input, when you start to look at aftermarket products it get confusing on what to buy. I want to by a good quality driveshaft, not one that would have to be replaced down the line, but on that would hold up to any future upgrades to the drive train. Any recommendations?

jnabird333

It looks like you are already on 37s which are the limits of a 1310 jointed shaft by just about anyones estimation. The 1350 jointed shafts aren't that much more. I went with Adams Driveshafts and purchased them through Smashboogie 4x4 here on the forum. There are other quality brands like Coast, Tom Woods, and RE Reel. Some include quality Spicer joints and some charge for an upgrade to get away from cheaper brand joints. What-ever you go with make sure you get a quality joint.

jnabird333

Here you go...

JE Reel 1350

mattgt5

I went 1310 because I want my weak link outside the diff. With 4.88 gears, some with even higher, the 1350 puts the week link inside the diff. A grenaded diff isn't making it home. Just my two cents.

I went Adams also and have been very pleased.

sent from my work leash

CerOf

I purchased directly from Adams driveshafts. I went 1310 as realistically, I won't go bigger than 35s for a long time. Some will say to convert from flange to yolk as it will make failures easier to fix.

I went with flange in the differential side and yolk on the t-case. Slightly easier install and the wheeling I do will likely not cause a break, knock on wood.

Adams spent quite a bit of time on the phone and asked me real questios to help me choose. They fully spline their shafts so if eventually I want to convert to a yolk at the front differential, I can.

I'm running no shaft waiting for this weekend to install the new shaft. My old looked like this:



Sent from some string and a few tin cans.

Seabee CMC

Thanks everyone for your input.