Replaced Driveshafts.... now diff fluid everywhere
06-06-2009, 06:59 PM
#11
JK Freak
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Why do you think you need a new crush sleeve? You SHOULD use a new pinion nut every where I've seen has said that. service manual specifically says that also. I think you are going to need 2 new seals and 2 new nuts (
) check out Blacknortherns gear write up, there is a drive shaft write up around somewhere also but dont know how much it will help you. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/gearing-82262/
06-06-2009, 07:55 PM
#12
I had this problem too - it was fixed when I noticed the seal still on my old yokes (rechecked at piginajeep's suggestion). Took the new yokes off and put the seal in, don't have leak problems anymore.
06-07-2009, 06:55 AM
#14
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as mentioned, there is a good chance that your yoke wasn't seated all the way down and or the pinion nut wasn't secured properly. any movement or vibration here can cause leaking from the seal. assuming that all is good, the seal itself might be damaged. removing it is easy enough but you will need a seal driver or a socket that is larger enough to get in the new seal evenly.
06-07-2009, 09:40 AM
#15
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If new yoke nuts not avail,will be okay reusing old with blue locktite threadlocker,I do this all the time on the Peterbilts and KW trucks I work on when R+I of yokes and have no problems with yoke nuts coming loose
06-07-2009, 02:46 PM
#16
JK Junkie
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The torque recommendations from other threads are all over the place. I've read anywhere from 125lb to 250lbs. I only did around 160lbs. Could this of been my issue? Planing on ordering new nuts and seals tomorrow but am curious if the seals are needed.....
06-07-2009, 04:30 PM
#17
I doubt the torque is the issue - as long as its good and tight, and at 160ftlbs it should be. I'm still betting its the seals.
06-07-2009, 04:51 PM
#18
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Measure the O.D. on the old and new yokes where the seal rides. One of the 1350 yokes I received from JE Reel was under sized and leaked as well. The other yoke was fine and measured the same as the OEM piece. Good luck.
06-08-2009, 08:59 AM
#19
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
as mentioned, there is a good chance that your yoke wasn't seated all the way down and or the pinion nut wasn't secured properly. any movement or vibration here can cause leaking from the seal. assuming that all is good, the seal itself might be damaged. removing it is easy enough but you will need a seal driver or a socket that is larger enough to get in the new seal evenly.
06-08-2009, 09:03 PM
#20
JK Freak
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I'm going with the under-torqued. I'm guessing it took close to 400 ft-lbs to get the crush sleeve in my diffs crushed. It was a struggle with the right tools. My 1/2 impact (IR 231) @ 140 psi air did not get it even close to crushing the sleeve.
The crush sleeve serves two purposes. One is to ensure a LOT of torque is applied to a big nut as these are ones that really bad things happen when they come loose. Two, to ensure the proper amount of preload is placed on the both tapered bearings.
Randy Lyman, author of "Differentials" writes this on page 181:
"Preload is essentially installing the bearing so that it has the right amount of artificially induced thrust load. Without it, the bearings cannot support much of a radial load and can walk in and out as thrust loads come and go . . . . However it's accomplished, the correct preload is vital to bearing life. Too loose and the bearings can move. Too tight, the lubricant is squeezed out and the bearing runs hot and or is overloaded."
On pg 191; "RANDY SEZ, If you're replacing the driveshaft yoke or pinion seal on a crush sleeve axle, pay special attention. It seems like a simple operation but it's one that causes lots of people a lot of problems. Because you have to recrush the crush sleeve, if you don't get it exactly right, you can end with pinion bearing failure. Because I see so many failures as a result of doing this, I always recommend that people go the extra mile and pop the cover, drop the carrier and replace the crush sleeve.
The crush sleeve serves two purposes. One is to ensure a LOT of torque is applied to a big nut as these are ones that really bad things happen when they come loose. Two, to ensure the proper amount of preload is placed on the both tapered bearings.
Randy Lyman, author of "Differentials" writes this on page 181:
"Preload is essentially installing the bearing so that it has the right amount of artificially induced thrust load. Without it, the bearings cannot support much of a radial load and can walk in and out as thrust loads come and go . . . . However it's accomplished, the correct preload is vital to bearing life. Too loose and the bearings can move. Too tight, the lubricant is squeezed out and the bearing runs hot and or is overloaded."
On pg 191; "RANDY SEZ, If you're replacing the driveshaft yoke or pinion seal on a crush sleeve axle, pay special attention. It seems like a simple operation but it's one that causes lots of people a lot of problems. Because you have to recrush the crush sleeve, if you don't get it exactly right, you can end with pinion bearing failure. Because I see so many failures as a result of doing this, I always recommend that people go the extra mile and pop the cover, drop the carrier and replace the crush sleeve.