removing transfer case from '11 JK - question
11-02-2013, 02:33 PM
#11
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Basically your just going to remove the tcase skid as well as the crossmember. Before removing the crossmember, use a jack to take the weight off the crossmember, and it should come off easy as pie. After that I did the shift linkage which is literally a pop-off connection(aka garbage), and then disconnect the cable on top next to it. After that, all the bolts are possible using a combination of sockets and ratcheting wrenches. Its very time consuming, but pretty easy. I'd recommend going after the top passenger bolt first. If you can get that one loose/off, you can get everything done no sweat. If you need more room for any reason on that side, you can run the tank as empty as possible, and just drop the tank out of the way. The only thing holding that up is te skid, so watch out for that. It drops fast haha.
This was great feedback - spot on with your comments. We dropped the cross member about an inch, which in effect lower the transmission as well. I ended up cutting the open end off of my 9/16" gear wrench to get the top two bolts. We spent an hour debating whether or not we had to do that, and then did it. Those bolts came out a lot easier. That was the key thing in the whole process - making a shorter wrench to get up in to those top two bolts.
It took three of us to muscle the new case up into place - one on the passenger and driver side, and one move it around the rear driveshaft. We couldn't work around it with just the two of us - it was just too awkward.
I didn't get any videos today, but anyone trying the same project is welcome to ping me, and I'll try to help. Thanks to everyone for your advice and help.
11-03-2013, 12:05 AM
#12
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This was great feedback - spot on with your comments. We dropped the cross member about an inch, which in effect lower the transmission as well. I ended up cutting the open end off of my 9/16" gear wrench to get the top two bolts. We spent an hour debating whether or not we had to do that, and then did it. Those bolts came out a lot easier. That was the key thing in the whole process - making a shorter wrench to get up in to those top two bolts.
It took three of us to muscle the new case up into place - one on the passenger and driver side, and one move it around the rear driveshaft. We couldn't work around it with just the two of us - it was just too awkward.
I didn't get any videos today, but anyone trying the same project is welcome to ping me, and I'll try to help. Thanks to everyone for your advice and help.
It took three of us to muscle the new case up into place - one on the passenger and driver side, and one move it around the rear driveshaft. We couldn't work around it with just the two of us - it was just too awkward.
I didn't get any videos today, but anyone trying the same project is welcome to ping me, and I'll try to help. Thanks to everyone for your advice and help.
Last edited by KCCO JK; 11-03-2013 at 07:08 AM.
11-14-2013, 03:33 AM
#13
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Quick update
After installing the case, I discovered a leak coming from the input shaft seal. We had replaced the old seal, but didn't drive it below flush on the transfer case. After pulling it out (again), I noted that the input shaft from the transmission had been contacting it, which caused the leak.
Note to other folks trying this - note how far the OEM seal is seated on the case, and be sure to drive any replacement to that depth. I used a 2" piece of PVC pipe as my driver, with a block of wood that allowed me to drive it centered.
I picked up a Harbor Freight transmission jack to help with the second uninstall. That, combined with my gear wrench that I cut down (removed the open end side of a 9/16" gear wrench), allowed me to drop the transmission in under an hour. That included removing both driveshafts, as well as the 6 bolts holding the case to the transmission. My wrench was a perfect fit on the top two bolts, and I didn't have to drop the crossmember again.
We replaced the seal in about 10 minutes, put it back in using the jack (mucho easier than muscling it up and in), and had it all reassembled in no time.
I wheeled it hard this weekend. To start, I will admit that I was not wowed by the 4:1. I run 4.88s, and 35" tires, so my crawl speed is pretty good. What I was pretty impressed with was 2-low. I have an auto locker up front, and it was really nice to disengage the front driveshaft, and actually steer very easily as we were moving between obstacles.
I think that the 4:1 would be perfect for Jeeps running stock gears (3.73s) and 35s. I have already sunk a bit of money into my D30 (ball joints, sleeves, gussets, auto locker, and obviously the regear), so for me the 2-low was a smart move to relieve some stress from the front end. The 4:1 is just icing on the cake.
After installing the case, I discovered a leak coming from the input shaft seal. We had replaced the old seal, but didn't drive it below flush on the transfer case. After pulling it out (again), I noted that the input shaft from the transmission had been contacting it, which caused the leak.
Note to other folks trying this - note how far the OEM seal is seated on the case, and be sure to drive any replacement to that depth. I used a 2" piece of PVC pipe as my driver, with a block of wood that allowed me to drive it centered.
I picked up a Harbor Freight transmission jack to help with the second uninstall. That, combined with my gear wrench that I cut down (removed the open end side of a 9/16" gear wrench), allowed me to drop the transmission in under an hour. That included removing both driveshafts, as well as the 6 bolts holding the case to the transmission. My wrench was a perfect fit on the top two bolts, and I didn't have to drop the crossmember again.
We replaced the seal in about 10 minutes, put it back in using the jack (mucho easier than muscling it up and in), and had it all reassembled in no time.
I wheeled it hard this weekend. To start, I will admit that I was not wowed by the 4:1. I run 4.88s, and 35" tires, so my crawl speed is pretty good. What I was pretty impressed with was 2-low. I have an auto locker up front, and it was really nice to disengage the front driveshaft, and actually steer very easily as we were moving between obstacles.
I think that the 4:1 would be perfect for Jeeps running stock gears (3.73s) and 35s. I have already sunk a bit of money into my D30 (ball joints, sleeves, gussets, auto locker, and obviously the regear), so for me the 2-low was a smart move to relieve some stress from the front end. The 4:1 is just icing on the cake.
04-01-2018, 06:06 PM
#15
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Help with these bolts
so I am just trying to put on a transmission skid plate and it requires removing these bolts. Do the bolts turn opposite of one another? I got one off but the other I am pulling as hard as I can and it doesn’t budge
04-03-2018, 12:34 PM
#16
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You can get them all from under the jeep. I used a 9/16 distributor wrench that attached to a 3/8 ratchet to reach some of them. Use kroil and they break free pretty easy then I was able to spin them off with my fingers.