Removing ARB locker from front PR60
#11
It looks like it rotated and crimped the copper tube. If this is the case you'll want to add more shim to add bearing preload.
How easily did it come out?
Did you check the backlash before removal? If not, you'll want to put it back together and check it before you add shims.
How easily did it come out?
Did you check the backlash before removal? If not, you'll want to put it back together and check it before you add shims.
#12
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
heres another pic before removal. looks like the tube was pinched under the bearing cap. a few tugs with pry bar and it came out. four shims which i marked 1-4 on the same side as seal housing.
#13
This would have never worked after it was clamped down. I'm guessing someone did some service to it and it wasn't used afterward.
The seal housing is part number 082104sp and it is supplied with the quad rings.
The seal housing is part number 082104sp and it is supplied with the quad rings.
#14
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
thanks for the part#, i was given that earlier by my local 4wp but 2weeks away so going to attempt a repair. question, do the small air holes have to lineup exactly on the seal housing and piece shown below to the left of the bearing? if so theres not much room for error.
#15
No, there isn't much room. You can see on the journal where the quadrings run. If you go back together as it came out you should have it in the same location. The seal housings are precision pieces and should have VERY little variance in tolerance.
Do no sanding on the journal unless absolutely required. If you must, use 400 grit and only sand completely radially. Any kind of cross hatch type sanding will causing gear lube pumping up the air line.
Do no sanding on the journal unless absolutely required. If you must, use 400 grit and only sand completely radially. Any kind of cross hatch type sanding will causing gear lube pumping up the air line.
#16
JK Jedi
#17
I always check back lash before removing any diff. Regardless of what I do inside, if I remove the diff I check to confirm the back lash hasn't changed before I close it up. Better safe than sorry. In this case, a front diff, there is less chance of set up issues but I still check.
The guy that bolted this together the last time obviously didn't do any checking or Air Locker operation test.
The guy that bolted this together the last time obviously didn't do any checking or Air Locker operation test.
#18
JK Jedi
#19
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
seal housing tube is repaired. reinstalled and tested locker and works like a charm. reinstalled everything else. just have to fill diff and its ready for road test. thanks again for all replies! definitely helped take the edge off this first time endeavour.
Last edited by JKJB; 06-24-2021 at 04:31 PM.