JKJB

Hi,
Im going to be disassembling my front Prorock60 for service and removing axles. Need to remove the ARB locker as its not working. Ive never done this before and am wondering if its as simple as removing the bearing cap bolts? Any tips are greatly appreciated!
Thanks

Digger 5

Before you remove it you should pressurize it and see if you can find any leaks.. That will help you determine where to go next. What is the problem? Compressor cycling? It's good to know more before you pull it out. If the copper tube is damaged and has about 3" of good tube remaining there is a kit that can add line to the existing line without even removing the locker. There are a few D60 models and it's good to know which you have before you start ordering parts. The 3 piece case (older models) has the seal housing on the passenger side (for front applications) and on the driver side for newer 2 piece case models.

Dynatrac housings are EXTREMELY rigid and it's good to use a case spreader for removal and re-installation. If you are not changing gears you'll want to check your backlash before you remove it. If the seal housing has spun you'll still want the same backlash but you'll want to add carrier bearing preload.

JKJB

I did do troubleshooting prior and verified air right up to bulkhead fitting(no compressor cycling). Talked to ARB and they say could be something lodged in seal housing.
Im not changing gears. Just want to check seal housing on locker and replace axle tube seals.
So for checking backlash it looks like i will need a dial indicator and gear marking compound?

TheDirtman

Just kep theshims on the correct side and you will be fine. It will be in there tight but you can remove and reinstall it without a case spreader. You don't need to check backlash or do a gear pattern check if you put it back in like it came out.

Digger 5

Given what you've already done, you won't need to measure anything before disassembly. While you may be able to do the job without a case speader, it is MUCH easier with one, especially with a DT housing. They are far more rigid than a common housing.

Digger 5

If you have blue airline -
When you first remove the cover, remove the air line and secondary fitting from the bulkhead fitting. If you have blue air line you should now be able to pull the copper tube down onto the case. Check the tube to see if it looks like an hour glass. It could have been crushed by over tightening.
This can't happen with black air line.
if it appears crushed you might be able to trim it with a brake line tubing cutter and reinstall. If the tubing is too short you can order 170109 kit and extend it. This diff will not need to be removed to do this.
The bulkhead kit is made up of 3 basic parts..the part that screws into the housing, the secondary fitting to seal the copper tube and the blue line nut. When you've tightened the secondary fitting you'll want to hold it with a wrench while tightening the blue line nut to avoid damaging the copper tube.

TheDirtman

ARB has a new redesigned bulkhead fitting.

Digger 5

That's why I referenced the blue line or black. The black line bulkhead is far superior. No more crushing the copper tube. That happens far too often.

JKJB

thanks for replies. going to attempt this tomorrow. front end has been apart a few days now. rebuilt dt ball joints, new axle shaft ujoints, repacked wheel bearings,new seals, lots of cleaning,degreasing. prepped then repainted knuckles and axle shafts.

JKJB

found the problem and believe this may be repairable.