Wildschwein

So, I have a '13 JK Sport and I just bought a '12 Rubicon front Dana 44 housing... Axle work has always been a little intimidating for me. I installed a front Spartan locker in my YJ, but that was 7 years ago and I haven't done anything since.

I'm planning to build this thing up on the bench top until it's ready to swap in place of my current d30. I'm going to weld on some synergy c-gussets and possibly sleeve it if necessary. I think there is a non-welding sleeve option somewhere, but I'm not sure which one it is. I'm not opposed to plug welding the sleeves if it's recommended. I need a new track bar mount (existing one is not trustworthy), and I'm debating changing out the ball joints to synergy if the consensus determines it to be best practice.

The front rubicon housing is completely empty, so I should be able to put in any carrier and gears I'd like. I'm dreaming of an electric Ox Locker and 4.56 gears, but I'm open to other suggestions. Will I need to change my axle shafts or can I reuse my d30 shafts for now? I imagine that will depend on the carrier I end up with... if I find a used rubi e-locker, I'll need 30 spline shafts, right? It seems to me I should find new shafts anyway to avoid beings stuck with 27-spline the rest of my life. Is that correct?

As for the rear, I'm keeping my stock d44 and just planning to lock and re-gear it. I have the "anti-spin" diff, which I'm assuming is just a limited slip. I should go ahead and lock it now since I have to re-gear to match the front anyway, right? Can I plug-n-play a rear rubicon e-locker? I have an sPod, so in my lizard brain it seems I should be able to run two wires from the locker connection to my relay box and just hook 'em up. How wrong am I on this? The non-rubicon and rubicon rear d44 housings are identical, correct? I'll just need to make sure my spline counts are the same for my shafts... that should be the only real concern there, am I right? I'm assuming I should put c-gussets on my rear axle as well, but to sleeve and/or truss
is largely not necessary? Only asking because I haven't seen a lot of rear axle beef-up threads.

Thanks for the help!

goo

Nitro makes the press-in sleeves. I'm not sure how helpful sleeves are. Some people say they are snake oil, others say they help. There have been reports of tubes cracking around the plug welds of weld-in sleeves.

C gussets would be helpful in preventing bending of the Cs, or more likely, the bending of the axle tubes right next to the Cs. Installing C gussets will likely damage your ball joints. Crown and Alloy USA sell BJs that are similar/identical to Synergy at a reduced price.

Rubicon differential housings are different than non-rubi. You will need to use a rubi specific locker in the front. Either OEM or RD157 as an example. You won't be able to use your D30 shafts since nobody is going to make a 27 spline rubi locker.

Building up the stock rear is a good idea, it's what I did. Unlike the front axle, the rear D44 is a true D44 end to end and has larger axle tubes. You won't need C gussets since rear axles don't have Cs. I would also advise against a truss unless you need one for links. You will not be able to use a factory rubi locker in the non-rubi rear end since the differential housings are different, you will have to go aftermarket. I would recommend a 35 spline locker and shafts.

MotoJeeper

Sleeves are supposed to help with torsional rigidity, so press in ones won't do much unless they're welded in. I haven't welded in a couple years, but with any weld, if it doesn't penetrate enough or the weld isn't sheilded correctly while you're welding, it's bound to crack. You also have to watch the heat when you're welding on something like a housing. Gussets won't hurt the BJs if you weld an inch or so at a time and let it cool down.

Wildschwein

Great info, thanks. No, the rear sure doesn't. That was a rum induced brain fart. Looks like I'll be going aftermarket both front and rear. Thanks!

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jtphoto JK

I've done the swap however, I used a D44HD (Rubi D44 with J8 tubes) housing with 5.38 gears and 30 spline OX locker with electric actuator kit. I went with crown axles for the time being but will switch to RCVs next year.
Your carrier options are limited because the Rubi housing has metric bearings. So your only options are, OX, ARB, Auburn, or MOPAR Rubi E locker.

Wildschwein

Super. I've pretty much committed myself to Ox or ARB anyway, probably Ox for ease of installation and future versatility. Did you install your own? I'm also curious how you feel about the electric actuator? I'm trying to decide between electric or air if I go ox.

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jtphoto JK

Love the electric actuator. I mounted it under the dash. Rather then in the engine compartment. Came with a lighted switch and all the wording required. Very cool set up.

Wildschwein

Wow! I was planning to weld the bracket to my frame, but that looks way better. Did you take any more photos or do a write-up of your install. I'd really like more details on your setup, installation, and wore routing. That looks great! Did you do the rear as well?

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jtphoto JK

No just the front. When you order ask for the next longer cable then the one they usually set you up with for electric. I got the 48" and it's a bit tight. The 52" would have been better. Don't have photos of cable routing but do have one more under dash. Feel free to PM me when the time comes for the install.

jtphoto JK

The nice thing about the OX electric is the switch is set up on negative wire switching so once the locker engages the light comes on but not until it fully engages, and because the actuator is inside you can hear it engage and disengage. Works like a charm. and because