Regearing to stock 3.73s...would anyone even notice?
08-21-2013, 08:51 AM
#11
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The information you guys are providing is awesome, I really appreciate all responses.
I did know about having to buy the carrier, but I didn't really think about putting a truetrac in the front too. That would just help me in 4hi or 4lo right? It really actually might be worth doing that instead of spending $75 on a carrier.
Is it really that exaggerated? I'm not being sarcastic. Here's my source: jeep wrangler 3.6L gear chart - Miscellaneous - Gallery - Tennessee Jeeps
Everyone says the truetrac is worth it. I know for a fact I'm doing that. But is it really not worth regearing for 32s/33s? The 3.21s make sense for 29-30 inch but not so much for 32/33. Since I'm not upgrading, this will probably be one of the last big things I do to my Jeep in the next 5-6 years (after that will be a different story). Do I really want to be driving 3.21s for 5-6 years? Not a rhetorical question. I have a hard time distinguishing between the "go big or go home" attitude of my fellow jeepers and what would actually make sense for my situation and be practical.
Considering what you said $1000 seems about right.
What is your RPM at 70MPH? I would say 2100-2300 would be ideal, and that is what I would like. According to the gear chart I'm looking at, with 34s (a big 33 inch tire? lol) you'd be just slightly under the ideal range, which would explain why you feel a little underpowered. If you had regular 33s or 32s, I would bet your power would be perfect.
From 3.21 to anything numerically higher in the front d30, you will need to buy a new carrier also. Should be around $70 or so. Why not just spend an extra $300 and drop in another truetrac instead of buying an open carrier?
The truetrac is a very strong, full case unit. Assuming a good install (don't assume that 'professional' = 'good', since even pro's can F-Up gear installs), it should not cause any issues whatsoever. But as noted, if someone were to pull the diff cover and look, it will be fairly obvious that you now have a traction device installed.
The truetrac is a very strong, full case unit. Assuming a good install (don't assume that 'professional' = 'good', since even pro's can F-Up gear installs), it should not cause any issues whatsoever. But as noted, if someone were to pull the diff cover and look, it will be fairly obvious that you now have a traction device installed.
Going from 3.21 to 3.73 would be an absolute, complete, over exaggerated, and agrivating waste of your time and money. You wont notice a big enough change to make the dent in your pocket feel worth it. Period. You're talking a 0.62 revolution change at the pinon.
The trutrac... yes very worth it. Put it in the front too, and keep your 3.21's....
A regear is usually charged 5 hours front, 4 rear, at $100/hr shop rate. This is a common rate. Usually figure another $100 for every locker or traction aid if it involves wiring or plumbing. If it's a new case/carrier like the truetrac, it shouldn't add to the cost.
The trutrac... yes very worth it. Put it in the front too, and keep your 3.21's....
A regear is usually charged 5 hours front, 4 rear, at $100/hr shop rate. This is a common rate. Usually figure another $100 for every locker or traction aid if it involves wiring or plumbing. If it's a new case/carrier like the truetrac, it shouldn't add to the cost.
Is it really that exaggerated? I'm not being sarcastic. Here's my source: jeep wrangler 3.6L gear chart - Miscellaneous - Gallery - Tennessee Jeeps
Everyone says the truetrac is worth it. I know for a fact I'm doing that. But is it really not worth regearing for 32s/33s? The 3.21s make sense for 29-30 inch but not so much for 32/33. Since I'm not upgrading, this will probably be one of the last big things I do to my Jeep in the next 5-6 years (after that will be a different story). Do I really want to be driving 3.21s for 5-6 years? Not a rhetorical question. I have a hard time distinguishing between the "go big or go home" attitude of my fellow jeepers and what would actually make sense for my situation and be practical.
Considering what you said $1000 seems about right.
I have 3.7 gears in my 13 Moab with 315 duratracs which are essentially a large 33 inch tire and Its way under powered. Now mind you I have steel bumpers and a winch plus other goodies too but I tried a 0-60 run the other day and it was 9.9 seconds. I am seriously thinking about going to 4.10 or larger. Just food for thought.
Yeah you were typing that post at the same time i was typing mine lol. Your money man, i'd just try it out first with 33's, you might not notice much difference. And be careful what you say about not going bigger. When i bought THIS jeep, i said i was going to take it easy and baby it. Here i am 15 months later with 35's and have had it up against trees and water up to the brake pedal with the doors off paying $500 a month in gas lol
. Here i am 15 months later with 35's and have had it up against trees and water up to the brake pedal with the doors off paying $500 a month in gas lol
Last edited by gibsonfirebird12; 08-21-2013 at 08:54 AM.
08-21-2013, 09:02 AM
#12
JK Jedi Master
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3.21 to 3.73 would be more noticeable than, say, 3.73 to 4.10, but he's right, getting the tires and driving it first may save you some money.
On the other hand, if you are paying for the install of traction devices anyway, adding cheap take-out gears at the same time makes sense. Go for it!
And yes, the front truetrac would only be active when in 4wheel drive. The steering may feel a bit 'heavier' the first few days, but other than that you won't notice it at all in 2wd.
On the other hand, if you are paying for the install of traction devices anyway, adding cheap take-out gears at the same time makes sense. Go for it!
And yes, the front truetrac would only be active when in 4wheel drive. The steering may feel a bit 'heavier' the first few days, but other than that you won't notice it at all in 2wd.
Last edited by nthinuf; 08-21-2013 at 09:05 AM.
08-21-2013, 09:09 AM
#13
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
3.21 to 3.73 would be more noticeable than, say, 3.73 to 4.10, but he's right, getting the tires and driving it first may save you some money.
On the other hand, if you are paying for the install of traction devices anyway, adding cheap take-out gears at the same time makes sense. Go for it!
And yes, the front truetrac would only be active when in 4wheel drive. The steering may feel a bit 'heavier' the first few days, but other than that you won't notice it at all in 2wd.
On the other hand, if you are paying for the install of traction devices anyway, adding cheap take-out gears at the same time makes sense. Go for it!
And yes, the front truetrac would only be active when in 4wheel drive. The steering may feel a bit 'heavier' the first few days, but other than that you won't notice it at all in 2wd.
08-21-2013, 09:14 AM
#14
JK Junkie
Keep in mind tho, those gear charts go by ACTUAL tire size on the jeep! So your 33's will only measure out to around 32" and THAT's the number you need to go by on the chart. Go measure your stock 32's, probably only around 30.5-31".
08-21-2013, 09:23 AM
#15
JK Enthusiast
As posted earlier, 3.21 are fine for 33" and smaller with medium offroading. I have a 6spd 2013 jku with 315's and 3.21 and turn around 2100 rpm in 5th at 70. 6th is good for flatland only.
My tires measure out to be 33.75 FYI which is larger than any advertised 33.
My tires measure out to be 33.75 FYI which is larger than any advertised 33.
08-21-2013, 09:31 AM
#16
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Great info. I just checked. mine are 31.5 with full tread (they are brand new so i expect them to lose a bit)
08-21-2013, 09:33 AM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Interesting you are getting 2100 rpm. I would expect way less with the 6 spd 3.21s, obviously real world is probably not perfectly matched up with the gear chart. But I would guess 1800-1900 rpm, certainly not 2100 at 70mph.
Last edited by gibsonfirebird12; 08-21-2013 at 09:36 AM.
08-21-2013, 09:55 AM
#18
JK Junkie
That's in 5th gear he said. I only use 5th on highway with 35's as well
08-21-2013, 09:57 AM
#19
JK Enthusiast
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08-21-2013, 12:08 PM
#20
JK Super Freak
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Also, keep in mind that if you're installing 3.73 or 4.10 gears, it's a very high probability they are used. In fact, I don't know of a single mfg that produces gears in that ratio for the JK. Richmnond gear may make a 4.10... I'm not positive....
What I'm getting at is installing used gears blows unless you can read the patter and backlash and get original shim height out of the original installation. It is a much more frustating process and it could.... not will, but could..... drive the install cost up.
Also I looked at the gear chart you posted, you're looking at a 300rpm improvement, max. Does anyone know the torque curve numbers at those RPM's?... Is the engine really going to be making that much more torque to make it worth while?
I'd guess no. And fwiw before we sold our 2012 (2 door sport, auto, 3.73's) I put my 35's on it for shits and giggles and it had power for days. I suspect 33's and 3.21's would not be an issue. But that was my seat of the pants meter comparing to my 2007 manual with 4.88's.
What I'm getting at is installing used gears blows unless you can read the patter and backlash and get original shim height out of the original installation. It is a much more frustating process and it could.... not will, but could..... drive the install cost up.
Also I looked at the gear chart you posted, you're looking at a 300rpm improvement, max. Does anyone know the torque curve numbers at those RPM's?... Is the engine really going to be making that much more torque to make it worth while?
I'd guess no. And fwiw before we sold our 2012 (2 door sport, auto, 3.73's) I put my 35's on it for shits and giggles and it had power for days. I suspect 33's and 3.21's would not be an issue. But that was my seat of the pants meter comparing to my 2007 manual with 4.88's.