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Regearing JK 2Dr Auto 2010 to 4.88

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Old 09-17-2011, 08:35 PM
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Exclamation Regearing JK 2Dr Auto 2010 to 4.88

Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle.


Hi Guys,

just have regeared (last week) my 2010 JK 2 Dr Auto 2" Mopar Lift kit running on 305x70x16 with a Yukon 4.88
Was reading in the Forum (see above) and found a Brand new Question that is now rumbling in my head:
1. Should I install a New Rear double Cardin U-Joint style Drive Shaft ??
2. What would the plus and minus be in installing it ??
3. What brand should I choose ??

Now that I have such idea in my mind I do really need your help !!

Thanks,

F

PS
I have spent the last two day in the dunes with other JK's, new friends that I met for the first time, everybody was impressed the way it was climbing so easy on high and steep dunes !!!
I love this Mod !!!!

Last edited by Arabia; 09-17-2011 at 08:57 PM.
Old 09-17-2011, 09:20 PM
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Lift height isn't the only factor involved. Your best bet is to just keep driving on your stock driveshafts (plural, since the front could very well go before the rear...) until there is a need to replace. Just make a habit of crawling underneath and looking for splatter.

As noted in the faq's, if/when you install a new rear shaft, you will want a set of upper adj arms to set the pinion angles. You will also want to swap the stock flanges for new yokes, don't run adapter plates.

Do some pricing and research on the different brands, and be sure to contact your local driveline shops as well. It seems that all of the aftermarket shafts are pretty similar, the difference will be the joints used, and your ability to properly maintain the shaft/joints. (Tom Woods, Coast, JE Reel, Tatton, are all popular. And several lift mfg's sell shafts as well. Lots of choices to look at.)
Old 09-17-2011, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Lift height isn't the only factor involved. Your best bet is to just keep driving on your stock driveshafts (plural, since the front could very well go before the rear...) until there is a need to replace. Just make a habit of crawling underneath and looking for splatter.

As noted in the faq's, if/when you install a new rear shaft, you will want a set of upper adj arms to set the pinion angles. You will also want to swap the stock flanges for new yokes, don't run adapter plates.

Do some pricing and research on the different brands, and be sure to contact your local driveline shops as well. It seems that all of the aftermarket shafts are pretty similar, the difference will be the joints used, and your ability to properly maintain the shaft/joints. (Tom Woods, Coast, JE Reel, Tatton, are all popular. And several lift mfg's sell shafts as well. Lots of choices to look at.)
Ciao Nthinuf,
thanks a lot for your advice, will crawl and have a look oftenly, and wait for the unavoibable.

Ciao
F

PS
Just one more question ..... if the front goes do I have to change also the rear and viceversa ??
Old 09-18-2011, 09:39 AM
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Nope. There is no problem running a stock shaft in one end and a double cardan in the other. Just wait until one starts spitting grease and then decide which way to go with it.



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