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Redneck ram assist install with Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod questions.

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Old 04-21-2016, 05:53 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by JKBud
It doesn't even look like it a new fitting would help cause it's a room issue. The port is literally right up against my power steering lines.
You just have to slightly bend the hardline. I'll try to snap a pic
Old 04-22-2016, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Monte417
Can you give a little more detail on what you did here. At full driver my clamp kisses the diff cover so I had to shave it down some. If I can shorten things a bit it'll give me more room to tilt the ram back a bit making it more parallel to the tie rod. I just don't want to mess up the rod end of the ram
The heims bottom out with still like an inch of thread showing. Thread it in all the way, see how much thread is showing. Remove and cut that much off. Do this on both ends and it helps shorten the total ram length.
Old 04-22-2016, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ringer
The heims bottom out with still like an inch of thread showing. Thread it in all the way, see how much thread is showing. Remove and cut that much off. Do this on both ends and it helps shorten the total ram length.
Hmm that's weird mine go all the way in with no thread showing. Thanks
Old 04-22-2016, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Monte417
Hmm that's weird mine go all the way in with no thread showing. Thanks
Same with mine. Perhaps WTO changed this length?
Old 04-22-2016, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by larry0071
It can, but not in the direction that I would like or that WTO recommends. You'll see a lot of people put the piston side out towards the differential, and that is frowned upon by WTO because your weaker out at mid shaft compared to at an end.

WTO recommends that you solid mount the ram body end at the tube right on the passenger side of the diff, and you mount the clamp at the passenger tie rod end side of the rod.
Anyone seen the Ram wielded to the Diff cover using brackets? I don't know if I would like putting that kinda force on a cover like that.
Old 05-09-2016, 05:27 AM
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Okay guys, I made it all work out. I bent the ends of the Ruff Stuff Tie Rod and made plenty of clearance for the ProRock 44 differential cover.

Used the homemade 1.5" ID tire rod clamp and welded the WTO Ram tabs onto it.

Used the WTO ram tabs and welded them to the stock Dynatrack track bar bracket.

To get the upper WTO hydraulic line on, you do need to remove the factory fittings. There is no way to get to that upper litting with the factory hard lines blocking your way.

For all the fear I had, it wasn't that bad at all.

The Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod is not at all up to the task of a ram, I can put the left front tire against a telephone pole in my yard, turn the wheel to try and push the jeep sideways in the grass.... but instead the passenger tire turns and the Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod bows out while the tire against the pole does not move. I would NOT recommend getting the DOM based tie rod if you want to go Ram. I'll be swapping this out with something from Fusion.

The Jeep drives like stock for the most part, I say that because if you want to rock the jeep side to side to the beat of music while going down the road and annoy your wife.... You can not. The fast left/right/left jerks will not happen. If your idling in your driveway and try to do a fast spin the steering wheel to lock, it momentarily binds/locks if you outrun the fluid supply. But normal driving, normal setting still at idle and changing steering inputs... you feel nothing new. But it absolutely does now have the ability to turn, to the point that the Ruff Stuff is a weak link with the ram mounted the direction I did. I am aware that I mounted it opposite of the most desirable mounting method.

The strongest mounting option is to solid mount at the diff cover area, and reach the ram to the passenger side and attach to the tie rod just before the tie rod end. But I am not about to start MIG welding to castings.

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Yes, it was a bent drag link that became a straight drag link and then was re-born as a braced drag link. Will it resist bending? I hope so!
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Oh! While testing in my stupid driveway, I bent the drag link. So we pulled it and used a 10 ton press to straighten it, and then welded some 3/16" angle to it to brace it up until I can get $$$$ for a new one. Redneck repair, but I think it will work.
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Last edited by larry0071; 05-09-2016 at 05:31 AM.
Old 05-09-2016, 08:37 AM
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If you are already thinking of moving to Fusion for the TR, why not he drag link as well? I'm running the 2.5 ton setup and love it, and know they have a 1 ton TR. If you're looking for more TR clearance they just released 2" offset forged ends too.
Old 05-09-2016, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by NJKURPat
If you are already thinking of moving to Fusion for the TR, why not he drag link as well? I'm running the 2.5 ton setup and love it, and know they have a 1 ton TR. If you're looking for more TR clearance they just released 2" offset forged ends too.
Totally, I guess I did not say it clearly, but the drag link bracing is a temp bandaid fix, and the tie rod is just a let down on how "buttery" it is. I plan to stop eating breakfast before work and lunch at work and saving money to pay Fusion for the last drag link and last tie rod I should ever need.

The other thing that honestly burns my ass a bit is that the Ruff Stuff tie rod assembly has massive misalignment in it. I call them and ask about it and they say "Yea, we know. That's why we have a patented item called "The Cure" that are a set of Delrin disks that take up all the slop and stabilize the tie rod! You just need to order up a set of "The Cure" and you'll be all set!"

So I'm thinking to myself... Why the F_ _ _ don't you include that as a required part of the tie rod as you ship them? That is silly!
Old 05-09-2016, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by larry0071
Totally, I guess I did not say it clearly, but the drag link bracing is a temp bandaid fix, and the tie rod is just a let down on how "buttery" it is. I plan to stop eating breakfast before work and lunch at work and saving money to pay Fusion for the last drag link and last tie rod I should ever need.

The other thing that honestly burns my ass a bit is that the Ruff Stuff tie rod assembly has massive misalignment in it. I call them and ask about it and they say "Yea, we know. That's why we have a patented item called "The Cure" that are a set of Delrin disks that take up all the slop and stabilize the tie rod! You just need to order up a set of "The Cure" and you'll be all set!"

So I'm thinking to myself... Why the F_ _ _ don't you include that as a required part of the tie rod as you ship them? That is silly!
Yeah synergy does the same bullshit with their "low misalignment dust boot". That still doesnt address the misalignment on the drag link. Im talking about the horizontal misalignment not the vertical misalignment (which is needed during articulation). Maybe they should develop an antiflop joint like yeti or metalcloak instead of these stupid bandaid fixes. The fusion stuff looks cool shoot if i had the funds ide buy their front 60 with 2.5 ton steering right now
Old 05-09-2016, 11:20 AM
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Its nice that some manufactures are building the no flop into their joints. Ive seen nothing but issues with the misalignment boot things.


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