Redneck ram assist install with Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod questions.
04-20-2016, 04:24 AM
#61
Super Moderator
So now I'm interested. When my steering gearbox went bad, I purchased my replacement from WTO so that I have the option of moving to hydro assist. I'm not running a DL flip. Are you folks saying that the ram will not fit onto the tie rod without a DL flip?
04-20-2016, 04:44 AM
#62
JK Freak
Thread Starter
WTO recommends that you solid mount the ram body end at the tube right on the passenger side of the diff, and you mount the clamp at the passenger tie rod end side of the rod.
With the stock mounted drag link and track bar, the track bar pivot bolt is at about the center line of the front tie rod/center link. So if you were to disconnect and then run the passenger front tire onto a large rock, the axle end moves up to full bump and causes the track arm to dip down and be almost straight across the center link. In this instance, the track bar would be trying to live where your ram is at.
If you move that track bar pivot bolt up 3", you have a 3" window above the tie-rods/center-link that the ram could be in that would be intruded on. The other problem is that the bracket you would need to weld to mount the housing of the ram to the axle tube just beside the differential would also need to be very low profile, or maybe even dip down to create room for the track bar. You couldn't build a robust bracket with no regard for adjacent components.
Flipping everything up 3" just creates a ton of room and makes the entire process easier.
Also having a proper (more offset) center link than the Ruff Stuff 1-ton cures a mess of issues. If your on a stock housing and not doing a ram assist, the Ruff Stuff would likely be fine. But with my ProRock and the provided diff cover, the offset is not enough. It hits the diff cover without even using a ram mount clamp or bracket. It's simply not able to be used with my axle set up.
04-20-2016, 05:47 AM
#63
JK Super Freak
It can, but not in the direction that I would like or that WTO recommends. You'll see a lot of people put the piston side out towards the differential, and that is frowned upon by WTO because your weaker out at mid shaft compared to at an end.
WTO recommends that you solid mount the ram body end at the tube right on the passenger side of the diff, and you mount the clamp at the passenger tie rod end side of the rod.
With the stock mounted drag link and track bar, the track bar pivot bolt is at about the center line of the front tie rod/center link. So if you were to disconnect and then run the passenger front tire onto a large rock, the axle end moves up to full bump and causes the track arm to dip down and be almost straight across the center link. In this instance, the track bar would be trying to live where your ram is at.
If you move that track bar pivot bolt up 3", you have a 3" window above the tie-rods/center-link that the ram could be in that would be intruded on. The other problem is that the bracket you would need to weld to mount the housing of the ram to the axle tube just beside the differential would also need to be very low profile, or maybe even dip down to create room for the track bar. You couldn't build a robust bracket with no regard for adjacent components.
Flipping everything up 3" just creates a ton of room and makes the entire process easier.
Also having a proper (more offset) center link than the Ruff Stuff 1-ton cures a mess of issues. If your on a stock housing and not doing a ram assist, the Ruff Stuff would likely be fine. But with my ProRock and the provided diff cover, the offset is not enough. It hits the diff cover without even using a ram mount clamp or bracket. It's simply not able to be used with my axle set up.
WTO recommends that you solid mount the ram body end at the tube right on the passenger side of the diff, and you mount the clamp at the passenger tie rod end side of the rod.
With the stock mounted drag link and track bar, the track bar pivot bolt is at about the center line of the front tie rod/center link. So if you were to disconnect and then run the passenger front tire onto a large rock, the axle end moves up to full bump and causes the track arm to dip down and be almost straight across the center link. In this instance, the track bar would be trying to live where your ram is at.
If you move that track bar pivot bolt up 3", you have a 3" window above the tie-rods/center-link that the ram could be in that would be intruded on. The other problem is that the bracket you would need to weld to mount the housing of the ram to the axle tube just beside the differential would also need to be very low profile, or maybe even dip down to create room for the track bar. You couldn't build a robust bracket with no regard for adjacent components.
Flipping everything up 3" just creates a ton of room and makes the entire process easier.
Also having a proper (more offset) center link than the Ruff Stuff 1-ton cures a mess of issues. If your on a stock housing and not doing a ram assist, the Ruff Stuff would likely be fine. But with my ProRock and the provided diff cover, the offset is not enough. It hits the diff cover without even using a ram mount clamp or bracket. It's simply not able to be used with my axle set up.
04-20-2016, 05:52 AM
#64
Super Moderator
It can, but not in the direction that I would like or that WTO recommends. You'll see a lot of people put the piston side out towards the differential, and that is frowned upon by WTO because your weaker out at mid shaft compared to at an end.
WTO recommends that you solid mount the ram body end at the tube right on the passenger side of the diff, and you mount the clamp at the passenger tie rod end side of the rod.
With the stock mounted drag link and track bar, the track bar pivot bolt is at about the center line of the front tie rod/center link. So if you were to disconnect and then run the passenger front tire onto a large rock, the axle end moves up to full bump and causes the track arm to dip down and be almost straight across the center link. In this instance, the track bar would be trying to live where your ram is at.
If you move that track bar pivot bolt up 3", you have a 3" window above the tie-rods/center-link that the ram could be in that would be intruded on. The other problem is that the bracket you would need to weld to mount the housing of the ram to the axle tube just beside the differential would also need to be very low profile, or maybe even dip down to create room for the track bar. You couldn't build a robust bracket with no regard for adjacent components.
Flipping everything up 3" just creates a ton of room and makes the entire process easier.
Also having a proper (more offset) center link than the Ruff Stuff 1-ton cures a mess of issues. If your on a stock housing and not doing a ram assist, the Ruff Stuff would likely be fine. But with my ProRock and the provided diff cover, the offset is not enough. It hits the diff cover without even using a ram mount clamp or bracket. It's simply not able to be used with my axle set up.
WTO recommends that you solid mount the ram body end at the tube right on the passenger side of the diff, and you mount the clamp at the passenger tie rod end side of the rod.
With the stock mounted drag link and track bar, the track bar pivot bolt is at about the center line of the front tie rod/center link. So if you were to disconnect and then run the passenger front tire onto a large rock, the axle end moves up to full bump and causes the track arm to dip down and be almost straight across the center link. In this instance, the track bar would be trying to live where your ram is at.
If you move that track bar pivot bolt up 3", you have a 3" window above the tie-rods/center-link that the ram could be in that would be intruded on. The other problem is that the bracket you would need to weld to mount the housing of the ram to the axle tube just beside the differential would also need to be very low profile, or maybe even dip down to create room for the track bar. You couldn't build a robust bracket with no regard for adjacent components.
Flipping everything up 3" just creates a ton of room and makes the entire process easier.
Also having a proper (more offset) center link than the Ruff Stuff 1-ton cures a mess of issues. If your on a stock housing and not doing a ram assist, the Ruff Stuff would likely be fine. But with my ProRock and the provided diff cover, the offset is not enough. It hits the diff cover without even using a ram mount clamp or bracket. It's simply not able to be used with my axle set up.
04-20-2016, 02:40 PM
#65
When I ran the ruff stuff tie rod with the ram, I had issues with the tie rod clamp running into my diff cover on the 44. It can be done, but its certainly a tight squeeze with the straight rod. Everything clears now with the added offset on the synergy TR.
I'm currently building another ram setup on my buddies jeep with that tie rod, but we are mounting the ram to a 3/8'' plate diff cover for 2 reasons: To prevent interference with the diff, and to clear the stock draglink. If all goes well, I'll have some pics of it completed in the next week or so.
Heres a pic from my jeep. Hard to tell, but the ram clamp was always a c*nt hair away from digging into the diff.
I'm currently building another ram setup on my buddies jeep with that tie rod, but we are mounting the ram to a 3/8'' plate diff cover for 2 reasons: To prevent interference with the diff, and to clear the stock draglink. If all goes well, I'll have some pics of it completed in the next week or so.
Heres a pic from my jeep. Hard to tell, but the ram clamp was always a c*nt hair away from digging into the diff.
04-20-2016, 04:07 PM
#66
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04-20-2016, 04:32 PM
#68
Super Moderator
So this thread got me searching... not sure if this helps any or just makes things more complicated.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...5-lift-316275/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...5-lift-316275/
04-20-2016, 05:14 PM
#69
JK Super Freak
04-20-2016, 06:19 PM
#70
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