Redneck ram assist install with Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod questions.
04-19-2016, 04:18 AM
#51
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chardon, OH
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I've done several systems on JK's without a DL flip. It's tight, but it can be done in the traditional location. When using the redneck ram, the heim ends are too long. I cut the threads down to make the overall package shorter.
04-19-2016, 05:17 AM
#52
JK Freak
Thread Starter
To mount the ram with the solid mount at the differential and the piston end at the passengers side end of the center link (you call it a tie rod) the track bar would be occupying the space that the ram is in. If the track bar axle side pivot bolt to raise 3", it would no longer be able to get down there and be in my space. To move it 3" I need to flip the drag link. That is what I think the drag link has to do with anything. Flipping the center link / Tie Rod is a matter of convenience that works on 2 fronts, get it higher so your not using it as a rock plow and moves it up where the diff cover is curving back, so it buys me back more steering. It does not have to flip, but it sure does make sense to do it if it doesn't cause issues by doing so. The Tie Rod is really no good as is and where is. You can barely turn. Useless.
04-19-2016, 02:52 PM
#53
JK Junkie
How much is the stage 3 with core charge for a 2 Door? I went on their site could not find a price. Hopefully its in the BallPark range of $800. They recommend welding on the Tie Rod on their site due to the possibility of slippage.
04-19-2016, 03:02 PM
#54
Super Moderator
04-19-2016, 03:04 PM
#55
JK Super Freak
Can you give a little more detail on what you did here. At full driver my clamp kisses the diff cover so I had to shave it down some. If I can shorten things a bit it'll give me more room to tilt the ram back a bit making it more parallel to the tie rod. I just don't want to mess up the rod end of the ram
04-20-2016, 02:28 AM
#56
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Can you give a little more detail on what you did here. At full driver my clamp kisses the diff cover so I had to shave it down some. If I can shorten things a bit it'll give me more room to tilt the ram back a bit making it more parallel to the tie rod. I just don't want to mess up the rod end of the ram
04-20-2016, 02:36 AM
#57
JK Super Freak
I have the Ruff Stuff tie rod with 1-ton offset joints, and I have discovered that it flat out will not work with my Dynatrac 44. It does not offset enough, the only way to use it would be to severely limit the amount of steering you have available. I'll be trying to sell a brand new, unused Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod that is cut, welded and POR15 coated.
04-20-2016, 03:13 AM
#58
To lift the track bar you need to flip the drag link. To mount the ram with the solid mount at the differential and the piston end at the passengers side end of the center link (you call it a tie rod) the track bar would be occupying the space that the ram is in. If the track bar axle side pivot bolt to raise 3", it would no longer be able to get down there and be in my space. To move it 3" I need to flip the drag link. That is what I think the drag link has to do with anything. Flipping the center link / Tie Rod is a matter of convenience that works on 2 fronts, get it higher so your not using it as a rock plow and moves it up where the diff cover is curving back, so it buys me back more steering. It does not have to flip, but it sure does make sense to do it if it doesn't cause issues by doing so. The Tie Rod is really no good as is and where is. You can barely turn. Useless.
Northridge 4x4
04-20-2016, 03:14 AM
#59
Northridge 4x4
04-20-2016, 03:15 AM
#60
Northridge 4x4