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Redneck ram assist install with Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod questions.

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Old 04-16-2016, 04:19 PM
  #41  
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Default RedNeck Ram

One of my friends owns a 4x4 shop 2 hours away he mainly deals with PSC kits. Iv heard those PSC hydro assist kits require a ridiculous hydraulic reservoir you have to find a home for. While the Redneck Ram does not require a large reservoir. Next time I wheel with him I'm going to see if he can get one in and I'll put one in at his shop. My Freaking arms get so tired after wheeling for 8+ hours.
Old 04-16-2016, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_JK
One of my friends owns a 4x4 shop 2 hours away he mainly deals with PSC kits. Iv heard those PSC hydro assist kits require a ridiculous hydraulic reservoir you have to find a home for. While the Redneck Ram does not require a large reservoir. Next time I wheel with him I'm going to see if he can get one in and I'll put one in at his shop. My Freaking arms get so tired after wheeling for 8+ hours.
That is not actually true. The diameter of the ram is the main factor in terms of how much fluid is required. A Redneck ram and PSC ram of the same length and diameter, will require the same amount of fluid. PSC offers rams in many diameters. West Texas Offroad (WTO - makers of the Redneck ram system) keep cost down by eliminating parts in the system. The main part not included is an upgraded power steering pump. A larger ram bore means more power. However, it is hungry for more fluid so you need a larger pump to make it happy or steering will suck. WTO is a basic kit with a Ram and some lines.

The big reservoir serves a couple purposes. One is to add more fluid volume to the system, which helps with cooling the fluid (both because there is more fluid and because it is aluminum and dissipates that rapidly). The second is when running an upgraded pump, the pump needs more fluid and the res makes sure there is plenty available. You don't want the pump sucking air.

You will find many people with the WTO setup who eventually buy the PSC pump and res. It will absolutely improve the steering. As for location, that is pretty much static. It has to be in a certain position relative to the pump and there is a spot on the 3.8 motor and one on the 3.6 that works with a stock engine compartment setup. Yes, it's a little tight on the 3.6, but not a huge deal.
Old 04-16-2016, 06:15 PM
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Cylinder bore actually has nothing to do with reservoir volume. The only change in volume is the size of the rod diameter(5/8") on many of these cylinders. This difference between cap and rod ends of the cylinder are also why assist kits provide a higher turning force in one direction.
Old 04-17-2016, 04:08 PM
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Okay,

I've got the prorock 44 Unlimited axle in with the lower RK and at 23-5/8" and the caster is at 10 degrees and the pinion is at 0 degrees.

I can't shorten the lower arms without pulling the shocks into the back side side of the shock tower, and the spring lower seat is angled backwards. So I need adjustable front upper arms so I can roll the top of the axle forward, and that will cure the caster/pinion issue as well as roll the spring seat forward and more into alignment with the upper spring seat.

As it sits, the springs are very much in an S shape and the lower bump stop extensions are into the coils.

The Ruff Stuff DIY Tie rod hits the ProRock 44 differential cover long before the steering hard stops hit. I'm not happy about that. I'll have to seriously extend the steering stop bolts, like in the neighborhood of .75".

Without doing a drag link and track bar flip/raise, there really isn't room to mount the ram, at stuff the drag link and ram want to occupy the same space. If I put the ram in bassackwards so that it's sold mounted at the track bar bracket and the piston is pushing on the middle of the center link, I could make it fit. But that's the weakest mount position where the ram could bend the center link.

I'm running into a bunch of issues. Frustrating.
Old 04-17-2016, 04:11 PM
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:07 PM
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yep your going to need some longer adjustable uppers.
Old 04-18-2016, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_JK
yep your going to need some longer adjustable uppers.
Yea, if I shorten the lowers to 23-1/8" the lower bump and spring pad is pointing the correct direction, but the bump stop extension would not even hit the upper rubber bump. The entire thing is whacky without the upper arms. I'm not sure how folks do this with just the lower arms and a 3.5" lift with 28" shocks. It rotates things to radically.
Old 04-18-2016, 02:54 PM
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Default RedNeck Ram

Redneck seems like a cost effective way to get some assistance with steering. I almost Sh*t myself when I saw the $2200 price tag for the PSC kit. I'm on the fence with it I'm going to talk to Kevin about it when I get the chance to go to his shop. I'll do all the wrench work and he can look it over, either way I go. Knowing him he's going to recommend PSC.
Old 04-19-2016, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_JK
Redneck seems like a cost effective way to get some assistance with steering. I almost Sh*t myself when I saw the $2200 price tag for the PSC kit. I'm on the fence with it I'm going to talk to Kevin about it when I get the chance to go to his shop. I'll do all the wrench work and he can look it over, either way I go. Knowing him he's going to recommend PSC.
Just a note, that I'm not seeing a good way to fit a ram assist in without a drag link flip and track bar raise. I could mount the ram bass-akwards with the ram solid mounted at a bracket coming off of the track bar bracket and the piston end bracket welded directly to the center link, but that stands a fair chance of turning the center link into a pretzel. If I bracket off of the axle just beside the diff cover and come over to the passenger knuckle, the ram and the stock position track bar are going to attempt to occupy that same space in the universe.

Also note that the Ruff tuff 1-Ton offset tie rod does not play nice with the ProRock 44 diff cover, it hits the diff cover way before you are full lock. Like at center link contact, I have almost 3/4" of space from the hard stops yet. So it's not something that adding a washer (common mod) would solve. There just is not enough offset. Now, If I flip the center link, I would buy some room. So I think I'll need to do a flip/raise on everything to make this all work.

The ram mount clamp would not work here because the bare center link hits the differential cover already, with the 1" thick bracket you couldn't turn much at all. So as pictured, it's a no-go.

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Old 04-19-2016, 03:29 AM
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Just installed redneck this weekend. Works great! And I am picky! Regarding the tie rod, they only time that location changes is with Reid knuckles. Not sure what you think flipping the drag link has to do with the tie rod.

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