Monte417

haha no worries. flexy is referring to low misalignment boots for your tie rod. I use them on my synergy tie rod to eliminate tie rod flop. Its important when your running hydro assist. Synergy JK Low Misalignment TRE Dust Boots 4131-10. Ruff stuff has the same boots for their tie rod ends as well hopefully theyre sending them to you with your tie rod. The clamp im using fits my synergy tie rod perfectly its 1 5/8 od which i believe is the same od as stock. poly sells several clamps for different od tie rods. I believe you said you are using a synergy draglink? if so yes that can be run flipped. You cant however run a stock draglink in the flipped position

larry0071

I've got the Synergy sector shaft brace, track bar brace (frame side) and track bar. I was planning to run the stock drag link this year... you know... being as I am out of money and all!

My jeep fund has $180 left in it at this point. And I still need axle grease, alignment and any smalls I am missing. I stole $140 from my wife Friday for the front coil springs I was missing.

I do have the 2" Mopar Stage 2 lift that I removed most of, that's going to hit CL as soon as I can gather up and get pictures. I'm about 10-11 grand in over the last 8 weeks. And I am broke as a joke and needing more money.

larry0071

Is there any reason not to plan to go with this EVO kit here for $299?

EVO Manufacturing JK Steering Flip Kit Pro Rock44 - 1089

FlexyJK

Sorry about that, should have specified the boots i was talking about. For the track bar bracket if you went synergy you can bolt it on and not worry. It does add up quickly. But doing a hydro assist is way worth it. The steering box on the JK doesn't like big tires and rocks. See how it will fit with what you got. Just get the ram as level to the tie rod as you can and just check your drag link clearance like Monte417 said. Then post pics and videos of wheeling it!

FlexyJK

That is a way to go. Just realize that is a stock right hand drive drag link. It will re use your pitman arm side so if its worn you will need to replace it seperatly. You can always go that kit now and if you wear the drag link out you can swap it for a different one and keep the brackets as is.

larry0071

Okay, let me catch up with you again.

Being that I have the Synergy track bar and 2 braces, maybe I should continue that theme. But that still leaves me hanging high and dry on the drag link.

The EVO flipped drag link kit I linked (cheapest option on Northridge), your saying it's a right hand driver side bar from a foreign Jeep, that it uses my stock pitman arm as it is today with no changes or modifications to the pitman arm so long as my pitman arm is not worn (11K miles on my JK with stock tires), and if my pitman arm is worn it needs replaced.

If that EVO arm wears out later, upgrade to something better/more expensive that would use a modified pitman arm? Or maybe its the rod end going through the pitman arm that changes? Or maybe your saying that I reuse the rod end from my current drag link onto the right hand steer drag link, where as a better aftermarket unit would use a much heavier rod end at the pitman arm? I'm really trying hard to understand!

FlexyJK

No worries! The EVO kit uses a stock drag link that is for a right hand drive. Don't get me wrong it will work just fine. What I was saying about the pitman arm is the rod end and how if you look at the picture you showed it only has the end for the axle side. All you have to do un screw your current drag link and thread the new on on. When you look under your Jeep you will see where the two pieces connect. Im sure your fine with the joint on there now and wont have an issue. An aftermarket one will use a bigger sized joint on both ends, but you will be just fine with the EVO kit and will have no issues.

Even with the sector brace there have been failures, but that is with everything. Really depends on how you want to wheel it. Since you already ordered the ram get it on first and see if there are any issues. You will most likely be fine. I'm not trying to sell you on any parts you don't need. You said you had about a 2 inch lift? Feel free to give me a call if that helps, Its hard to get info over the keyboard sometimes. And you can always call Matt at West Texas Offroad who makes the Redneck Ram. He has seen all of the combinations on a JK.

I apologize if this is confusing.

larry0071

I started whith the Mopar 2" lift, but during this tear down I swapped out the Mopar/Fox 25" shocks for the Fox 28" shocks and swapped the Mopar 2" springs for the Rock Krawler 3.5" JKU springs (I have a JK, not a JKU) because of my heavy JK.

My change is all centered around 2 primary goals, #1 is to get rid of the bent D30 I had, and get the Prorock 44 unlimited, and #2 was to get rid of the factory Willys/Rubi wheels and tires and move to STT Pro 37x13.5-18 tires on LRG 106 18x9 wheels with 5" backspace and then 1.5" spacers to move to a resulting 3.5" observed backspace.

I thought I had done a metric shit ton of searching and reading and thought I had a solid plan to get this done and keep factory flares. I'm almost there, but this front end set up is not a cookie cutter type of deal. There appears to be many ways to skin this cat!~

My build list for the last 2 months goes something like this:

Synergy Sector Shaft Brace
Synergy Track Bar Brace
Synergy Track Bar
Ruff Stuff Off-Road 1-Ton Tie Rod
Riddler Dana 44 Steel Diff Cover
Dana 44 Rear Axle EVO Rock Star Shock Relocation Brackets
Rear Rock Krawler 3.5" Triple Rate Coil Springs
Dana 44 rear 4.88 Yukon Axle Gear Set
Dana 44 Rear Axle Master Install Kit
Dana 44 Ten Factory Rear Axle Shafts
Dana 44 Master Kit
EVO Rear Shock Relocation Brackets
SuperChips FlashCal F5 3571
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited (RCV Shafts, E-Locker, 4.88, Synergy Ball Joints
LRG 106 18”x9” wheels (5 Wheels)
Cooper STT Pro 37x13.5-18 Tires
Gorilla Chrome Spline Drive Lug Nuts
Fox 2.0 Smooth Body Front 28.25" Shocks
Front Rock Krawler 3.5" Triple Rate Coil Springs
West Texas Off Road Ram Assist Steering
Rugged Ridge Sherpa JK Roof Rack RUG11703.01
Rugged Ridge Sherpa Yakima Style mounts and cross bars RUG11703.01
Home made rear 3" bump stop extensions

This is where I sit at the moment with parts partially on the jeep and partially on the floor.

FlexyJK

That is a very nice parts list you have. 3.5 inch lift is about the height you want to consider a drag link flip for handling and bump steer. It kind of comes down to you have it all apart no so may be easier to get the front end done. If it was me and my budget didnt allow for a flip kit, I would install the ram kit and drive it. See how you like it. You can put a flip kit on it down the road without issue.

Chuck-The-Ripper

Run a ruffstuff drag link. Straight Dom, the make a high misalignment tie rid end for the pitman arm and a normal tie rod on the knuckle. Drill the knuckle and you're good to go.