nick99wj

I'm putting a little bit more lift on this weekend(probably +1" or so) and am worried about my caster. Should I be?

Also...everything else seems to be ok, but if i'm missing something please let me know.

Thanks for any and all help!!

Invest2m4

Your caster is already too low. Adding lift will make it worse. You need geometry brackets or adjustable control arms. 4-5 degrees would be an acceptable range.

towel33

Good advice assuming you're driving on stock driveshafts, but if you've got aftermarket ones you get stuck compromising since the pinion needs to be as straight as possible with the DS. I've got 4" of lift and I'm running at about 2 degrees. It's a little flighty but still plenty driveable.

nick99wj

That's what I figured, I am going to see where I'm at after the lift and then see how it drives. If it's too flighty or under 2.50°(which it most likely will be) i'll order up some front lowers.

I am on stock driveshafts so i'll have a little room to play if I get front LCAs




Thanks for the input so far!

Mark Doiron

I hope I'm not reading that as an endorsement for OEM driveshafts over aftermarkets and a proper set-up. LOL. You're really pushing those Rzeppa joints hard--they don't take steep angles very well for very long. Here's some great info on setting pinion angle, and the different types of driveshafts ...

Jeepwire.Com Presents: Setting Your Pinion Angle

Mark Doiron

How much lift do you have now, and why are you adding lift? Are you currently happy with the feel of the steering? Do you have adjustable control arms up front, or control arm relocation brackets?

Invest2m4

Correct, I should have clarified. I assumed he had stock shafts. The stock shaft rzeppa joints are designed to run with angle. Ideally, the outputs of the pinion and t-case should be at similar angles, thereby making the joint angle close to the same at both ends. In the case of the OP (assuming he doesn't have a crap ton of lift), he'd be better to add caster. It will drive better and the shaft will be happy.

Aftermarket shafts are a completely different story. Although, there's more flexibility on the front shaft since it is not under load.

nick99wj

I'm currently only on a leveling kit. The reason for the more lift isn't really because I want more lift...my friend had 2" synergy springs that he passed on to me and then i'm adding a 1" puck up front on top of those to level the whole thing out since i'm running all stock bumpers out back...putting me a 3" front 2" rear. Also, I don't really like how it currently drives, very bad diving under braking and a little floaty/soft for my liking. The front springs seem to be overwhelmed from the change in height and weight of my winch/bumper

I'm currently on all stock control arms and drive shafts.

I'm also adding a Synergy Trac bar up front, tracbar relo in the back, new shocks, brake lines, and and artec truss....but none of those are that related to the topic on hand.

Invest2m4

Dirtman would be good to chime in on this. My less knowledgable understanding would be that the 1" puck will magnify the issues you are having.

New shocks will help to some degree on brake dive, but geometry is the better solution.

nick99wj

yea, ideally I wouldn't want to add the puck but the synergy springs keep the factory rake...so with the winch and bumper up front and nothing out back it'll just get worse. but yes, that 1" is def going to reduce my caster further.

I'm think I'm just going to have to see how it drives after and if I hate it....splurge on some adj lower CAs.