Rear trackbar bracket weak point
03-23-2007, 11:08 AM
#11
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Yes, you can leave it on the ground. With the new track bar set to the correct length you shouldn't have to do much, it should bolt right up. If not, be sure to connect the frame side first, then you can put a jack under either the left or right axle to flex the suspension in the right direction so the axle bracket and track bar bolt hole line up.
If it's a bit too short, jack the right axle, if it's a bit too long, jack the left axle.
husky~
If it's a bit too short, jack the right axle, if it's a bit too long, jack the left axle.
husky~
03-23-2007, 11:18 AM
#12
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I was told they are good from 0.000" to 6.000" lifts. I held the front one up to the Jeep last night and it looked to be the stock length with the Heim Joint adjusted all the way in. I guess I'll find out tonight when I install them.
husky~
03-23-2007, 06:06 PM
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Could someone who is in the know post a list of Lifts that are susceptible to this problem (Designed with the bracket being exposed to greater leverage), and an opposing list of lifts that are not susceptible?
I think that would be helpful to those not very knowledgable about lifts/components.
I think that would be helpful to those not very knowledgable about lifts/components.
03-23-2007, 08:42 PM
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It would seem to make sense that positioning of the bracket may have less to do with failure than the control arms not doing their job. Meaning that the track bar bracket is breaking because the axle is allowed to wander too much. This also could be from bent wheels/poor rear alignment. The rear track bar is supposed to help center the axle, not hold it there by itself. 
Bad or worn out linkages can show them selves as broken track bar mounts as some of the first very apparent problems with the linkages. This is why you should inspect your linkages frequently, particularly on a modified vehicle.
Flexy rod ends will require a stout track bar and more than the factory tin to hold it in place. This is evident from most weld on buildups where the track bar and bracket is significantly beefed up or even not used in the case of triangulated upper control arms (Y or V-link) to take the center job from the removed track bar.
Bad or worn out linkages can show them selves as broken track bar mounts as some of the first very apparent problems with the linkages. This is why you should inspect your linkages frequently, particularly on a modified vehicle.
Flexy rod ends will require a stout track bar and more than the factory tin to hold it in place. This is evident from most weld on buildups where the track bar and bracket is significantly beefed up or even not used in the case of triangulated upper control arms (Y or V-link) to take the center job from the removed track bar.
03-24-2007, 02:41 AM
#16
JK Junkie
Could someone who is in the know post a list of Lifts that are susceptible to this problem (Designed with the bracket being exposed to greater leverage), and an opposing list of lifts that are not susceptible?
I think that would be helpful to those not very knowledgable about lifts/components.
I think that would be helpful to those not very knowledgable about lifts/components.
03-24-2007, 04:21 AM
#17
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Sorry if i miss this, but can anybody explain how "Drop Bracket" works? I know that riser bracket attached to the factory bracket. WHere does "Drop Bracket" attached too? and is this a better solution than an adjustable track bar (mounted on stock bracket)?
THanks
THanks
03-24-2007, 05:01 AM
#18
JK Junkie
The "drop" bracket attaches to the frame end, which is a stronger attachment point. The Teraflex bracket actually has 4 bolt holes where it attaches to multiple points. It is my opinion that using both a frame mounted bracket along with an adjustable arm would be the best setup. The bracket allows the up and down "track" of the axle to remain near stock, while the adjustable bar allows you to center the axle properly.
03-24-2007, 03:28 PM
#20
JK Junkie