Eric Rawson

Hey All,

So I just found out my rear passenger axle seal has a leak. This is not a job I feel comfortable tackling given my lack of experience wrenching under a vehicle (slowly but surely I am learning more) so I will be bringing it to my local shop to fix....they also notified me of the leak.

I just want to ask if you guys think there is any other work that I should have done while they have the axle disassembled and are working down there. Obviously my mind is going to e-lockers, re-gearing etc but I'm not sure if it would just be worth it to buy a D44 out of a rubicon instead of installing lockers and gears on my current setup. I wanted a 4.56 ratio though so again not sure if buying a rubi D44 is worth it. (Currently have 35s on a 2.5" metal cloak lift, but I plan on moving to 37s eventually)

At the very least, I'll have the bearings/seals replaced and they should be covered under my extended warranty. I just wanted to consider other upgrades while working down there. I'm going on my first big overland trip this summer and want to be a little more ready for trails with gears and lockers.

Thanks in advance

Sixty4x4

If you install a Rubi locker you will need to change the front ratio unless the gears there are same as a Rubicon which could be 3.73 or 4.11. IMO you are better off to re-gear and add something like an Eaton locker in the rear then find a Ruby front diff and gear match that. Lots of guys here will say going to 37's requires a lot of hardware additions such as stronger diffs, suspension changes etc. If you are a 'gentle' 4 wheeler then 37's may work for you on your existing setup with perhaps chromoly rear axles. A fellow in our club runs a JL Ruby with 37's and no issues as he has a winch that he is not frightened to use in difficult situations. Personally I am happy with 285s and am about to spring on some 34" diameter 285s from Toyo. Just a lot less headaches IMO. Remember though when overlanding it is always the weakest link that lets you down miles from nowhere.

resharp001

Replace the seals and bearings have em clean up the mess in your e-brake assembly and call it a day. If you're not ready to regear there's not much else to do back there. I'd suggest when you do get ready for traction control and gears, just use the non-rubi D44. The locker you put in will be better than the rubi locker.

Jeff Pillsworth

Rear axle seals are on the outer side of the shafts, they never have to open the diff up to do them. You might consider buy new chromoly shafts with bearings and seals already pressed on and installing them yourself, it would probably end up cheaper and you would have upgraded axle shafts.

resharp001

The only issue with this would be that if OP is going to regear and install a locker sometime in the future, that new locker will most likely be 35-spline and require new shafts at that time; otherwise, this is an easier route.