vetmedmck

I purchased a 2010 Sahara unlimited and regret not having waited for a rubicon to arrive at the dealer. So now I am looking at putting in a rear locker for better traction. Already I have put new tires on BFG 32.6 inch AT and a 2.5 skyjacker lift. I called a shop today and they mentioned regearing? I plan on putting on bigger tires when the ones I have wear out. They said I should do the regearing when they install the rear locker. Does this sound right and what type of locker should I be looking at. I don't do a lot of off roading and there are no rocks to climb in FL, but I do encounter a lot of thick sand and mud.

Thanks

Mike

nthinuf

Yes, it sounds right.

When they do your gears, they have to pull the axles apart. When they add lockers, they have to pull the axles apart. So it makes a lot of sense to have both done at the same time.


Do some more research and figure out what type of locker(s) you want.

-Selectables (ARB, Ox, ELocker, etc) are arguably the best choice. Push a button and they are on. Push it again, and you have an open diff - same as not having a locker. But, they are very, very expensive. An ARB is roughly $850, plus the air source, plus the switch panel, plus the switches, plus the mounting bracket.
-Auto lockers (Detroit, lunchboxes, etc) are great traction devices, but they are always on. No switches or compressors or extra costs. Since it is always working, you may have noises and clunking and chirping in tight turns, and possibly shorter tread life. (lunchboxes are cheap autolockers ($250-$350ish) that fit inside your stock diff. A Detroit actually 'replaces' the diff, and is a lot stronger, but also more expensive)
-For LSD's, the only one I would actually consider is the TrueTrac. It is full case, so it replaces your diff like a Detroit, easier on the drivetrain than a full locker, handles well in the front diff, even on ice/snow (which certainly can not be said for any automatic locker) and is the next best thing to a full locker. The only downside to the TT would be if you spend a lot of your time in the rocks with tires in the air. In that instance, a true locker would be the better choice. But, from your description, this may be the best choice for you.

Just depends on if you want a thousand dollar selectable, or a $400 limited that would function just as well for the uses you will put it to.

Can you tell that I am biased towards TrueTracs? Obviously, a selectable front and back would be the best choice, but TT's front and back are plenty good for most conditions, will strain the drivetrain less, have no air lines or electric lines or compressors or switches or levers, half the price, and will lock up with a tap on the brakes to provide locker-like traction when that little bit extra is needed.

But again, it depends on your use and your budget.

vetmedmck

Thanks for the reply. I think I am going to put on air lockers in the rear. Who knows where I will end up down the road and I plan in keeping this Jeep for a long time. Is there any downside to regearing now except the cost. Will it affect my performance since I have smaller tires?

I was quoted about 2,000 to regear and put in the locker.

CTNEDGE

2k seems high for just gears however if they have to drill and tap for an air locker it could go up. Regardless it seems high. My local shop charges $300 plus parts per axle to install gears and he had about another 45 minutes into the locker air line install. Nuthinuf totally hit a homerun with his post by the way.

nthinuf

Yep, from reading other posts about Florida install rates, that's a good price --> assuming it is an ARB and not some Chinese knock-off, and they are gearing both axles, and not just the rear. (You do realize that you need to gear both axles, right?)

If it is only the rear, they had better be including the compressor/inflation kit/bracket/panel/switches/etc and installing all of it. Even then, it's probably still a bit high.


Depends on your transmission and which ratio you are going to.

Red

As a mechanic, I feel that if you are already in the diff, go ahead and do everything you want to at once. No sense in pulling it apart more than once. Now, as far as charging for the work, if you go by book rates, well, it's more money because you are charging for two separate jobs, though they entail many of the same procedures. So, talk to your mechanic and see if he can work something out for you. If you are putting in a locker, you are pulling the diff, sliding off the ring gear and sliding it onto a new diff and putting it all back together. Yes, if it is a selectable locker, there are air lines, or wires or cables and drilling the housing etc. Lets say you go with a Tru Trac or a Detroit (I am also a big fan of a Detroit in the rear and a Tru Trac up front), then there are no cables, wires, or air lines. Once the diff is back in the housing, you need adjust the back lash, and with any luck (which in my experience happens about 80% of the time) you don't need to adjust the pinion depth when just changing the diff. Now, if you do gears at the same time, then you need to go into both the front and the rear, and adjust pinion depth as well, and replace bearings (or not). So, it is way more work and much more expensive, and not having to pull the ring gear off because you are putting a new one on a new diff isn't that big of a time saver. However, if you are already in there, you only have to set it up once, and it is the set up that is a pain and very time consuiming. It means putting it in, measuring, pulling it out, shifting shims to adjust, putting it in, measuring... over and over until it is right. However, you are only doing it once. By book rates, it is twice. So, like I said, talk to the mechanic and see what you can work out. My suggestion on finding a mechanic to do the work is to go to your local drag strip and ask around who the best rear end guy is. Hope this sheds some light on it. By the way, it is also a good time to swap axle shafts and sleeve the axle.

mwbmorley

ROTFL!!!

So sorry...my 7th grade humor just kicked in. LOL

Enclocal

What gears do you have now, 3:73's or 3:27's? If you have 3:73's , those are fine for 32" or 33's My stock 2010 JKU Sport came stock with 3:73 in an Auto with 32's.


If you intend to go larger in tire size, then you might consider regearing. If you are planning to stay around 32's or 33's, you could probably find Rubi 4:10's for a fair price from someone who upgraded...

nthinuf

Rubi gears won't help him, he has a front D30. And even if if he can find some take-out 4.10s from a X/Sahara, that is a ton of money to waste just to go back to a stock ratio.

And without knowing which transmission he has and what size tires he is going to, it's hard to suggest any particular ratio at all.

Enclocal

agreed