kb7our

Currie UCAs arrived today. Already have a lift installed so all I want to do is get the new upper CAs in. What's the best way to proceed with only the UCA install? I have ~3" of OME lift and intend to adjust the length 1/4 to 1/8 shorter than stock to get caster near 6-7. Thanks!

kb7our

Guys, I didn't find any thread that only relates to control arms replacement without having to go through the motions for a lift. What's the minimum effort to get new front UCAs installed? Frame stands and a jack to lower the axle a bit, then do one side at a time?

nthinuf

A saw of some type to chop off the bolt on the passenger side, then it's just removing and replacing. You shouldn't need to put it on stands, just a floorjack to help align the holes.


You have probably already found these down in the write-ups area, but that's all you really need. One side at a time, use the jack as shown in the DIY Alignment writeup to position the holes, bolt it up, move to the other side.

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment

Bnizzle

Did you get uppers only? not lowers in the front?

I am hoping they are the rears?

ugg you where talking about caster, so front...as i understand it, lowers is what you want to do it right..or is it something i dont know about your set up..

JKred

Castor can be adjusted with both uppers and lowers. In reality, lowers are used for position of the axle, and uppers are used for caster/pinion angle adjustment.

The reason lowers are often more recommended is they are much easier to install, and will give you that same range of adjustment, for the most part. Uppers require you to cut the passenger side frame bolt. Bit of a PITA....

JKred

As a note to the OP, be careful with higher caster. You have to balance between good pinion angle and less flighty caster. I'd suggest rather than jumping to a angle, stepping up to it, in small increments. Go until you find a steering you like, but not soft you start getting driveshaft vibes.

That being said I don't think you'll have a problem around 6....

nthinuf

Uppers and lowers do the exact same thing, just backwards from each other.

Front upper -
lengthen to lower caster/raise pinion
shorten to raise caster/lower pinion

Front lower -
shorten to lower caster/raise pinion
lengthen to raise caster/lower pinion

Front uppers are less expensive than lowers, the issue is that some uppers will not adjust short enough to raise the caster where you want it. (depends on actual lift height). Lowers are more expensive, but have a larger range of adjustability, which generally makes them the better choice if you only get one set. But again, either set will allow you to raise and/or lower the caster/pinion.

nukeman

I have your setup (OME 3" lift, Currie uppers).

Cut off the passenger side frame bolt, remove, then drill out the frame mount holes, and install. It should be in your instructions. Pretty easy, just don't drop a socket into your frame. Electrical tape your socket onto your extension.

As said, set your caster to a compromised point between angles and driveability. "6-7" isn't a set rule.

You'll love the currie arms. Never a problem, perfect fit.

kb7our

Thanks everyone for your replies - they helped a lot. No need to lift anything and the hardest part was cutting off the passenger side rear bolt. I've got the arms set at 18.5" to start and will check drivability this morning. I believe factory was 18.75". Arms went on pretty smooth except a little need for some light tapping to seat the front over the bolt holes. I'm running the JKS basic ACOS on front as well with a heavy load (AEV bumper, Warn 9.5, AEV hood, dual batteries) with OME heavy springs no spacer and now the ride sits nice and level with the rear. Time for a test drive to fine tune the CAs. Gettin her all ready for a UMV J30 in Feb or Mar!!!