Re-enforcing axle question
#1
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Re-enforcing axle question
My question has to do with the "Next Gen" axles on my '13 JK Sport. Currently I am preparing for a gear change (ordering parts and lining up a shop); since the axles will be apart, it makes sense to do the re-enforcing at the same time. My current axles are D30 front and D44 rear, with 245/75 R16 on a 16x8.5 w/5.25" backspace. My plan is to step up to 295/75 R16 with a 315/75 R 16 down the road a ways. I'm sure that trusses and sleeves are necessary for the D30, because of the added weight of the new tires. My question is, is it also necessary to truss and sleeve the D44?
My normal wheeling is mild logging trails and only occasionally. Most of my driving is on-road (80 percent +) (it's my DD).
Thanks in advance.
My normal wheeling is mild logging trails and only occasionally. Most of my driving is on-road (80 percent +) (it's my DD).
Thanks in advance.
#2
JK Jedi Master
My question has to do with the "Next Gen" axles on my '13 JK Sport. Currently I am preparing for a gear change (ordering parts and lining up a shop); since the axles will be apart, it makes sense to do the re-enforcing at the same time. My current axles are D30 front and D44 rear, with 245/75 R16 on a 16x8.5 w/5.25" backspace. My plan is to step up to 295/75 R16 with a 315/75 R 16 down the road a ways. I'm sure that trusses and sleeves are necessary for the D30, because of the added weight of the new tires. My question is, is it also necessary to truss and sleeve the D44?
My normal wheeling is mild logging trails and only occasionally. Most of my driving is on-road (80 percent +) (it's my DD).
Thanks in advance.
My normal wheeling is mild logging trails and only occasionally. Most of my driving is on-road (80 percent +) (it's my DD).
Thanks in advance.
This is a good one to show you some of what I do, but there are many others ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IldVX63Z8D4
Last edited by Mark Doiron; 07-01-2015 at 05:07 AM. Reason: Clarified.
#3
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The tubes are identical diameter and the axle C's are identical, period, between the two axles. So, in short, yes. I'd recommend either (not both) truss or sleeve the front axle. Also put gussets on the axle C's up front. Check out some of my videos to see how I use my Jeep to give you an idea of what a built D30 can take. Bear in mind that I also have a front locker, though I only rarely need it (can count on two hands the number of times it's been used), and that I have 165K miles on this Jeep, most of that with 35s and 4.88 gears. I am also running Chromoly axles up front. The rear has not been upgraded except for regearing and a Riddler differential cover (same up front).
This is a good one to show you some of what I do, but there are many others ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IldVX63Z8D4
This is a good one to show you some of what I do, but there are many others ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IldVX63Z8D4
#4
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Yep, same length, tube diameter, tube wall thickness, same C's, hubs, brakes, etc. They even use the same 32spline outer shafts. The rubi44 has bigger gears, the locker, thicker inner shafts and joints.
It sounds a bit like you are tossing around the idea of a front axle upgrade to a rubi44 instead of building yours? Might not be a bad idea to go ahead and price out both options and see what makes sense. There was an ebay seller not long ago that builds rubi axles with gears of your choice for under 2k delivered. (haven't seen anyone talking about the ads lately, but he may still be doing it?) As noted above, that would still leave you wanting the same gussets/sleeves/truss/etc as your current d30, but it would get you the rubi internals. And then sell your 30 for whatever you can get to offset some of it.
Also, consider skipping the 34's and going straight to 35's.
It sounds a bit like you are tossing around the idea of a front axle upgrade to a rubi44 instead of building yours? Might not be a bad idea to go ahead and price out both options and see what makes sense. There was an ebay seller not long ago that builds rubi axles with gears of your choice for under 2k delivered. (haven't seen anyone talking about the ads lately, but he may still be doing it?) As noted above, that would still leave you wanting the same gussets/sleeves/truss/etc as your current d30, but it would get you the rubi internals. And then sell your 30 for whatever you can get to offset some of it.
Also, consider skipping the 34's and going straight to 35's.
#5
JK Junkie
I read that as in you are asking about beefing up the rear D44? If so, the answer is no, it is fine. If you did anything, just have the tubes welded to the diff. The plug welds that hold the tubes in are known to fail and then the tube can rotate. Highly unlikely, but if you know someone that can competently weld mild steel to cast, it is cheap insurance.
Paying someone to sleeve and truss a front axle is going to be serious $$$. Might want to pick one and go that route. If you have a truss welded on, be sure it is a person who has experience with full trusses and especially with welding them on weak axle tubes. I don't want to say it is easy to warp the stock axle housing, but it also isn't hard.
Paying someone to sleeve and truss a front axle is going to be serious $$$. Might want to pick one and go that route. If you have a truss welded on, be sure it is a person who has experience with full trusses and especially with welding them on weak axle tubes. I don't want to say it is easy to warp the stock axle housing, but it also isn't hard.
#6
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I read that as in you are asking about beefing up the rear D44? If so, the answer is no, it is fine. If you did anything, just have the tubes welded to the diff. The plug welds that hold the tubes in are known to fail and then the tube can rotate. Highly unlikely, but if you know someone that can competently weld mild steel to cast, it is cheap insurance.
Paying someone to sleeve and truss a front axle is going to be serious $$$. Might want to pick one and go that route. If you have a truss welded on, be sure it is a person who has experience with full trusses and especially with welding them on weak axle tubes. I don't want to say it is easy to warp the stock axle housing, but it also isn't hard.
Paying someone to sleeve and truss a front axle is going to be serious $$$. Might want to pick one and go that route. If you have a truss welded on, be sure it is a person who has experience with full trusses and especially with welding them on weak axle tubes. I don't want to say it is easy to warp the stock axle housing, but it also isn't hard.
Thanks a bunch. You answered my question exactly. Also, thanks for the tip about watching the heat when welding. Since I have the capability to do all the work myself and will be fabricating my own trusses and gussets, I'll use a stitch weld process to allow for cool down which should lessen the warp danger (similar to welding sheet metal when doing body work). Thanks again.
#7
JK Junkie
Thanks a bunch. You answered my question exactly. Also, thanks for the tip about watching the heat when welding. Since I have the capability to do all the work myself and will be fabricating my own trusses and gussets, I'll use a stitch weld process to allow for cool down which should lessen the warp danger (similar to welding sheet metal when doing body work). Thanks again.
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#8
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honestly I wouldn't do anything to it... You are not going to hurt your housing unless you are rock bouncing or bombing though the desert. But if you like/can weld go truss and don't look back.
Last edited by GreatWhite JK; 07-01-2015 at 02:18 PM.