I am very close to pulling the trigger on a lift, but keep going back and forth between the Rubicon Express 3.5" and Clayton 3.5". Anybody with either can chime in with some inspiration.

For anybody else contemplating this here is what I've gathered:

- Both are fairly complete kits with a front adjustable track bar, extened brake lines, adjustable arms, bilstein shocks (RE are just rebranded), etc.
- With the Clayton you can later move up to a 4.5" lift and 37" tires by simply replacing the springs. Not with the RE.
- It is my impression from talking to both companies that Clayton gives a softer ride and tells me with more confidence the tires rotate left and right fully without rubbing. RE was either less confident or more honest. All this is just my impression, is the Clayton really a softer ride?
- Clayton offers a rear adjustable track bar as a separate option (requires their track bar bracket that comes with the kit).
- Clayton has 8 adjustable arms while RE has 4 adjustable arms... just gives you a bit more tunability, like moving the axle forward or back a bit, but also more ways to mess up with so much tuning.
- RE is about $250 cheaper and probably a bit cheaper to install. $1650 vs $1900. I hear the Clayton will increase by $150 making it $2050, a $400 difference.
- I believe the Clayton 3.5" sits a little higher than the RE 3.5". RE is a true 3.5" but if I remember correctly the Clayton is closer to 4". Can anybody confirm?

There doesn't seem to be much discussion about the REs and Clayton on here.

This is my plan:

RE JK 3.5" SUPER-FLEX KIT, 4 DOOR
RE JK 3.5" MONOTUBE SHOCKS KIT (package of four)

OR

Clayton 3.5"
Rear adj track bar (later)
Bilstein 5100 shock (x4)

AND

Spidertrax 1 1/4" wheel spacers 5x5 bolt pattern pair (x2)
BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2 Tire, 35x12.50R-17 (five)
Tom Woods 1310 front driveshaft, w/ convertion yokes
Tom Woods 1310 rear driveshaft w/ conversion yokes
Bestop HighRock 4x4 slider step
Bestop HIghRock 4x4 oversize tire carrier
Hypertech Speedometer Calibrator

Was going to do 5.13 gears as well but the cost of parts and labor just blows my budget out so maybe down the road.

 

from reading threads like this previously I think the consensus is you'll be happy with either. As to your specific q's, I can't really help.

I can tell you unless you just want new shafts you probably don't need them, especially if you have a 4door. At the worst, drive your old ones until something goes wrong and then replace.

 

We have Clayton lifts on our TJ and XJ. Our JK is currently unlifted, but based on the performance of their products on our other Jeeps, their customer service and warranty, we will be buying Clayton again.

 

I would'nt want radius arms, Claytons arms come with a life time warranty..

 

 

Thanks for all the input. So it sounds like both RE and Clayton would sit at the same height roughly give the same tires. I thought the Clayton sit a bit higher.

Also note the RE shocks are Bilsteins that were specially valved for the RE application while the Clayton use one of the Bilsteins off the shelf.

I like that with the Clayton you can later move up to 37" with replacement springs and all the adjustability, but all the adjustability is also worrying me... how good is the person making the adjustments. Don't the adjustments in the arms (e.g. to move the axle a bit forward or back to clear tire rub for example) need to be made before measuring for a drive shaft and installing it... afterwards there is nothing you can do, no?

 

What did you end up buying?

I have a Superlift 2" BB now, but just bought 35x10.5x16 tires and may want to upgrade to the RE 3.5" Superflex. I'm interested in what you decide and how it works out.

Have you found any posts about anyone with the RE 3.5"?

 

I just imstalled a RE 3.5 SF lift kit. It leveled the vehicle which was one of myconcerns.I got 3.5" in the rear and 4 13/16 in the front. 3.5 in the front would have left it nose down. I did the install myself and it went well and took about a day and a half. They did not include or even recomend and adj rear track bar. Apparently their new style axle mount bracket for the track bar is well dialed in as I am with 1/16 of being perfectly centered.

The non adj lower arms from RE are 1/4 longer than the stock lengths. In the end I decided that I didn't need the lowers to be adjustable.

I don't know that the Clayton will ride softer; the Currie is reputed to ride very softly. On the other hand some local shops who have installed them all told me that RE kits handle the weight of front bumpers and winches, rear bumpers and tire carriers and carriers with gas and water can brackets better. As I planned to do all that plus a Tuffy secuity drawer I went with the RE.

I don't know if it matters but Clayton supplied the same spring or all vehicles while RE has different ones for 2 and 4 dr. Clayton is new to the JK business and told me they've sold about 20 kits; RE has sold a ton.

I spoke to Clayton and RE on the phone and they both were great. I also spoke to Currie twice and in neither case did I feel whoever I spoke to was forthcoming with good info.

I think they're all high end quality kits and you'd be hard pressed to go wrong with any of them.