Yea I'm open/open on 35's and have been trying to keep up with guys on 37's and locked, so sometimes I'm a little hard on the jeep.
I also would get some cheapo ujoints from napa or somewhere like that (don't by the cheap ujoints).

 

The ball at the end of the RCV shaft will not fit through the knuckle so you can't slide the shaft out. You need to remove two bolts and flip the knuckle out so you can remove the RCV shaft from the axle. Then you can begin the install of the ball joints, also at the time I did this I did my Tie rod which I know contributed to my alignment being off.

 

I have a 12' w/Dana 44 I originally went with the alloy USA but the right axle kept leaking
I found out that the surface where the seal sit is machined smaller than the factory. So after sending and receiving 2 different sets still the same I ended up getting RCV axles
I believe they are aware of this because I been trying to send them back the axles but they never contacted me back but have gave me a refund so I have them sitting I my garage.
Btw no problems with the left axle just the right side

 

As far as the gears becoming the weak link, it may very well be the case but you will snap a U-joint long before the gears go. Sometimes those U-joints have snapped way too easy.

Dave

 

Don't know about your location but here in San Diego I thought the same thing for Ujoints, Maybe $125 to have a driveline shop replace both ujoints(me bringing in the axles) $252 later because the Rubi Dana 44 Ujoints are just a bit different and damned expensive. if I would've know that from the get go I would have at lease gone with chromoly axles and spicer ujoints. The RCV's are just too pricey for my wallet

 

Sorry to hijack. So, any thoughts on Superior vs Alloy USA. RCV's just too expensive.

 

save your money and upgrade to the D44 stock housing - PR44 or better
for now, ten factory and better u-joints

 

My Alloy's have been holding up awesome since I put them in over a year ago.

 

If you can pony up the cost of the RCV's they're worth the investment.

They are a true high strength CV (constant velocity) joint, so you do not get a pulse when turned and in 4wd/locked. This pulse common with u joints combined with the fact a u joint is weakest at full turn is why u joints snap (inconsistent power transfer). And when a u joint breaks, it often damages the shaft ear, and rips up the lower ball joint.

Also, RCV is one of the few companies that rolls their splines as opposed to cutting them. This makes the shaft stronger at the splines, preventing fracture at the spline which can cause damage to the carrier/locker and moving it to mid shaft (a safer area to break). And RCV's do break. There are more instances of RCV fracture than there are front D44 R&P failure (when properly set up).

Add all that to the fact they carry a bulletproof lifetime warrantee and the joints are about 90$ to rebuild, which is rate if properly maintained... They're worth it.

 

This has been exactly what ive been thinking and its why i havent pulled the trigger on rcvs. I want my ujoints or shafts to break before ANYTHING in my differential