RC 2.5" w/ stock rear shocks?
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Hey folks,
I have a problem with one of the bushings on my 2.2 performance shocks from Rough Country... in the meantime while I try to get the bushings replaced, I'm wondering if it's okay to use the stock rear shocks with the 2.5" lift?
My tech tells me that it'll rip the pistons apart if I flex out.. just thought I would ask here to see what ya'll had to say.
Thanks!
Vex
I have a problem with one of the bushings on my 2.2 performance shocks from Rough Country... in the meantime while I try to get the bushings replaced, I'm wondering if it's okay to use the stock rear shocks with the 2.5" lift?
My tech tells me that it'll rip the pistons apart if I flex out.. just thought I would ask here to see what ya'll had to say.
Thanks!
Vex
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If you're just driving around town it'll be fine, but I wouldn't take it off road like that.....do you have a local auto zone or something like it? They should have replacement bushings there made by Energy Suspension that are much more durable.
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Hey folks,
I have a problem with one of the bushings on my 2.2 performance shocks from Rough Country... in the meantime while I try to get the bushings replaced, I'm wondering if it's okay to use the stock rear shocks with the 2.5" lift?
My tech tells me that it'll rip the pistons apart if I flex out.. just thought I would ask here to see what ya'll had to say.
Thanks!
Vex
I have a problem with one of the bushings on my 2.2 performance shocks from Rough Country... in the meantime while I try to get the bushings replaced, I'm wondering if it's okay to use the stock rear shocks with the 2.5" lift?
My tech tells me that it'll rip the pistons apart if I flex out.. just thought I would ask here to see what ya'll had to say.
Thanks!
Vex
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what would b the difference the shocks are more or less always the limiting factor when it come to droop
also when your jeep goes on a lift and your wheels drop down in the shop whats the difference there and on the trail
on the lift you get the whole weight of your axels on the piston
on the trail some of the weight remains on the wheel that touches the ground but there is also some levrage there too
Last edited by -MAW-; 09-09-2008 at 06:21 PM.
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sounds like cheap shocks then ![Thinking](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/thinking.gif)
what would b the difference the shocks are more or less always the limiting factor when it come to droop
also when your jeep goes on a lift and your wheels drop down in the shop whats the difference there and on the trail
on the lift you get the whole weight of your axels on the piston
on the trail some of the weight remains on the wheel that touches the ground but there is also some levrage there too
![Thinking](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/thinking.gif)
what would b the difference the shocks are more or less always the limiting factor when it come to droop
also when your jeep goes on a lift and your wheels drop down in the shop whats the difference there and on the trail
on the lift you get the whole weight of your axels on the piston
on the trail some of the weight remains on the wheel that touches the ground but there is also some levrage there too
The 2.2 shocks are longer.
The drop isn't as much, because both wheels are dropping the same amount instead of one stuffed in the fender and the other stretched to the ground. Also, the sway bar links and trackbar keep the axle from dropping too much when on a lift
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I know that there are differances between the two scenarios
and the shocks are longer but I don't see that the difference btween disconected like on my rubi or on the lift would cause the pistons to tear apart
even teraflex says you can use the bb w/t stock shocks and no extensions
i've been running mt 2.5 tf bb w/t rubicon express monos for a 2-3 " lift and have not had a single issue w/t them
all the stock shocks will do is limit his droop and nothing more
and the shocks are longer but I don't see that the difference btween disconected like on my rubi or on the lift would cause the pistons to tear apart
even teraflex says you can use the bb w/t stock shocks and no extensions
i've been running mt 2.5 tf bb w/t rubicon express monos for a 2-3 " lift and have not had a single issue w/t them
all the stock shocks will do is limit his droop and nothing more
#6
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Rip them apart, I doubt it. Weaken and fail over time, probably. I used my stock shocks for a couple weeks after I installed my RE BB until I could figure out an easy way to remove the sleeves and bars from my stock shocks to put in the RE shocks. In that time, every time I took a curve a little fast or hit a speed hump, I could hear a "bump" which was my factory shocks topping out. By the way, my rear spacer was 1-3/4" so if yours is 2-1/2" then yours will bump alot more than mine.
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I know that there are differances between the two scenarios
and the shocks are longer but I don't see that the difference btween disconected like on my rubi or on the lift would cause the pistons to tear apart
even teraflex says you can use the bb w/t stock shocks and no extensions
i've been running mt 2.5 tf bb w/t rubicon express monos for a 2-3 " lift and have not had a single issue w/t them
all the stock shocks will do is limit his droop and nothing more
and the shocks are longer but I don't see that the difference btween disconected like on my rubi or on the lift would cause the pistons to tear apart
even teraflex says you can use the bb w/t stock shocks and no extensions
i've been running mt 2.5 tf bb w/t rubicon express monos for a 2-3 " lift and have not had a single issue w/t them
all the stock shocks will do is limit his droop and nothing more
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just joking w/t ya
just wondering what would it take to pull the piston apart
this is my 3rd wrangle and haven't broke a shock yet
knock on wood
#9
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The mechanic is an idiot, sorry.
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Get a new mechanic...in fact, learn to do the work yourself.![eek 2](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/sSc_eek2.gif)
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Shocks are always being fully extended...every time you hang a tire.
Most suspensions are set up so the shock is a limiting factor (Also mentioned above...)
So - they are MADE to act as a travel stop.
There are SOME exceptions...not stock, but some after market shocks are NOT designed to do this, and, they warn you not to, and to use a limit strap, etc, instead.
________
And - to clarify...The shocks are MORE extended on a lift with BOTH tires drooped straight down, than they are when one tire is stuffed, and the other fully drooped.
The reason is that the shocks are inboard of the tires, and raising one end compresses the OTHER shock too.
If you can't see this, measure your shocks eye to eye...and jack up the truck so the tires drop in a straight dead level droop, as on a lift, etc....and remeasure the eye to eye distances.
Now, just lift one tire until its tucked into the wheel well, and raise the truck by it until the other tire is just off the ground, and Re-Measure the eye to eye distances.
The straight droop distances will be longer than the opposite stuffage/drooped distances.
Trust me on this, I've set-up enough suspensions.
![Big Grin](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.png)
Get a new mechanic...in fact, learn to do the work yourself.
![eek 2](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/sSc_eek2.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.png)
Shocks are always being fully extended...every time you hang a tire.
Most suspensions are set up so the shock is a limiting factor (Also mentioned above...)
![Big Grin](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.png)
There are SOME exceptions...not stock, but some after market shocks are NOT designed to do this, and, they warn you not to, and to use a limit strap, etc, instead.
________
And - to clarify...The shocks are MORE extended on a lift with BOTH tires drooped straight down, than they are when one tire is stuffed, and the other fully drooped.
The reason is that the shocks are inboard of the tires, and raising one end compresses the OTHER shock too.
If you can't see this, measure your shocks eye to eye...and jack up the truck so the tires drop in a straight dead level droop, as on a lift, etc....and remeasure the eye to eye distances.
Now, just lift one tire until its tucked into the wheel well, and raise the truck by it until the other tire is just off the ground, and Re-Measure the eye to eye distances.
The straight droop distances will be longer than the opposite stuffage/drooped distances.
Trust me on this, I've set-up enough suspensions.
![Big Grin](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.png)