Rednroll

Once my D30 breaks, I think I'll be looking at the Dana Ultimate 44. Refresh my memory because I always seem to get mixed up with all the different options. Is the Ultimate D44 one of the few front HD D44's that will accept a Trutrac? I'ld like to eventually go with Trutracs front and rear, where the last I looked into it, most of the front axle upgrade options wouldn't allow a Trutrac to be installed.

Ryan0260

Keep an eye out on Craigslist, facebook marketplace etc for Rubi takeoff axles. You can fibd them cheap sometimes.

Rednroll

All the Rubi D44 take-offs I've seen, have been in the $2K-$2.5K range and aren't worth the price of admission in my opinion.

Like the OP, I want to avoid the $5K front axle upgrades. My needs just don't justify it. Here's kind of my current thought of upgrading from a D30.

Factory D44 take-off $2500
- Slightly stronger axle
- Larger pumpkin
- Factory locker
- 4.11 gears
Plus add cost of trusses and C Gussets if you're looking for an increase in strength.

or Ultimate D44 for $3K.
- Much stronger chromoly axle shafts
- Larger pumpkin
- Factory lockers
- Your choice of gears included
- Increased strength control arm mounts
- increased strength tubes
- increased strength C's
- improved design U-Joints
- HD diffy cover

Seems like a pretty obvious choice if you're targeting a similar budget price range and coming from a D30 front.
The other thing I personally don't like about the factory D44, is that you can't install a Truetrac LSD in it, if you prefer that option over lockers. Currently trying to understand, if the scenario is the same or not for the Ultimate D44 in regards to the ability to put in a Truetrac LSD.

resharp001

Congratulations, you just bought yourself another trouble-free 100k miles on your factory gearing.

SoK66

Actually, if after his D30 goes to the smelter and he goes Ultimate 44, he can pick from a rnage of gears and then just re-gear and lock the rear.

resharp001

I was just goofing on Rednroll......as I know he's itching for a regear. Saying things like "Once my D30 breaks" only ensures that sucker is gonna last a long time.

Honestly, I think it takes quite a bit more to break even an un-reinforced D30 than most do. Most people aren't abusing them as much as they think they are. The real dilemma is always when it comes to regearing and the thought of putting any money at all in to a D30.....and it's hard to get over the hurdle of tossing a perfectly firn D30 to the side and pony'ing up for an upgraded axle.

ORWJK

The way I look at it, if you are already looking to spend thousands on something, you might as well get it built to your on specifications, and not investing that kind of money into used with unknown mileage or condition (bent or straight). The extra $$$ you spend is insurance that you are getting what you need, and not having to do the labor of removing that axle ever again.

jtphoto JK

I agree, the D30 is still stronger then folks give it credit for but a heavy, quality, diff cover is a must for both the D30 and D44.. A regear is not rocket science but some folks just are not comfortable doing it themselves.

Rednroll

LOL! You know me too well. Been considering that re-gear, then think to myself, maybe I should be more forward thinking and replace the front axle instead which will come with the gears and some additional strength, but you're right I likely won't break that D30 for the mild stuff I do.

My current roadmap plan
4.88 gears
Detroit TrueTrac LSDs front and rear

That's the reason I'm interested in understanding with the Ultimate D44, if I can put a LSD in there or not. Would like to shop around to see if I can order it from somewhere with a Truetrac instead of the locker installed. Considering the price of the UD44, and what I need (knowing I won't likely break the D30), that may be my best upgrade path instead of doing the re-gear and Truetrac additiion to the front D30.

Ryan0260

Honestly I would just save up for a PR44, even a used one, unless you can find used Rubi axle in the $1500 range or less..