scorpion111180

Hello, I own a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited 6spd.

And I am in the need of some new tires, and I have been considering the 35x12.50x17 or the 37x13.50x17. I am currently running some 33x12.50x17 Toyo right now on a Rubicon Express 2" lift. (aftermarket wheels) I have just purchased a 1" Performance Accessories Body Lift yesterday (not installed yet)

*** Things i have been kicking around *** (would love some input)

- Buying a 4" lift + the 1" body lift and losing the 2" lift. Should give me 5" lift total. Stock fender flares. And running a 37"

-Keeping the 2" + the 1" body lift. Should give me 3" lift total. Buying Bushwacker flat fenders. And running a 37"

-Keeping the 2" + the 1" Body lift Should give me 3" lift total. Stock fender flares. And running a 35"

I would love some advice from people that have gone through any of these steps. I just am not sure of performance, clearance, rubbing issues. Also when running a 37" tire is there anything that should be changed out besides gearing? (axles, drive shafts, fender trimming, rear tire carrier, etc) Also any pics would be a bonus to see what these setups look like.

Thank you in advance Derek

sa29560

Body lift, Extended Bump Stops, Chopped Stock Fenders, 37s All of the above on the gears, DS, and tire carrier, gusset up those C's and run it till somethin breaks and upgrade accordingly

07JKDakotaEd

I am in this process right now. I have done a 4" TF lift with Upper and lower adj control arms, Tf drag link flip and frame brace with monster track bar, gussetted my Cs, regeared to 5.13s and a new DS, at the end of this month I'm adding PSC hydro assist with a new tie rod. I know I should do axles but I'm gonna wait. These are the main things I feel need to be done in order to run 37s. Hope this helps

nthinuf

Start with the FAQ's stickied to the top of this modified area, and then move on to this one.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...highlight=lift

scorpion111180

I was just thinking do I really need a Drive Shaft if I lift the Jeep 4" or Lower on the suspension? It seems most DS are replaced after 6" of lift. Or is it that the stock DS isn't strong enough?

07JKDakotaEd

Quote:
"Upper and lower adj control arms, Tf drag link flip and frame brace with monster track bar" Did all that stuff you were talking about come in your Lift kit?

nthinuf

Wow, you need to look around some more. Plenty of posts about losing them with as little as 2.5".

Too many variables involved for anyone to say you will or will not need new shafts, but at 4", consider yourself on borrowed time. (start budgeting for shafts. If you don't need them, it's money for something else)

scorpion111180

I was just going by what some of the Suspension lift companies are recommending. Most are saying drive shaft does not need to be altered with at 4" unless its a 2 door or an automatic. And 6" they are saying drive shaft to be replaced. I am new to Jeep sorry, its just what I have been reading, its nice to talk to you guys on the forum that unfortunately have found things out the hard way. And I really appreciate you guys for giving me advice to make my, and other Jeep newbs life easier.

nthinuf

It's a marketing ploy. If they tell you that you might need (or will need) driveshafts also, you won't buy their $300 4-6" lift. They also tell you it is 'complete', and once you find out that it drives like crap, you figure out that you need caster correction and axle centering and your swaybars are angled down and your brake lines are stretched and your tires are ripping the fenders off and...

But as I mentioned above, there are a lot of variables in needing new shafts. Only one of which is lift height. Plenty of people are running 4+ inches on stock driveshafts with no issues (yet). And plenty of people have blown shafts with 2.5 or 3 inches the very first time they hit a trail.

2door or 4door
auto or manual
total lift height
axles centered or not
disconnected or not
longer travel shocks, or shorter
driving habits (all on-road, a few light trails, max flex in the rocks, etc)
-and the great equalizer --> luck

Obviously, some setups are much more likely to run into driveshaft issues than others. Just do a little research, go over your specific setup and driving habits, make a semi-educated guess, and then...



Roll The Dice

runit3

If you're even considering 37's and all that goes with upgrading them skip the 35's. I've been waiting over a year to put 37's in the budget and these damn toyo's just wont wear out keeping your current lift and adding a BL w/ some fender mod is going to be the cheapest, and should leave you a good amount of $$$ to upgrade the axles. Think about it as money you would have to spend anyways, the axles (should) be reinforced no matter what lift you settle on.

You'll also need to trim your rubi rails and fold the pinch seam over a little. A search in threads will give you some write-ups. You could also opt to trim your stock fenders instead of buying new ones.

scorpion111180

Do you have to trim the Rubicon Rails and fold over the pinch the seams for 35" too? Or is that just for 37?