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Questions About Axles Lengths and options

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Old 10-19-2017 | 08:24 AM
  #1  
jku_13's Avatar
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
Default Questions About Axles Lengths and options

Hey whats up guys. Think Im finally gonna pull the trigger on some axles. Right now Im running a stock dana 30 in the front and a 44 in the back. I have coilovers and bypasses in the front and coilovers in the back.

Heres my dilemma:
I want this thing to be pretty bullet proof but can't afford 12k to ideally do prorock 60s in the front and back

I found a brand new g2 44 core housing that I really want to buy. The concerns Im having is that it is stock width. Does this mean I'd have to keep stock width in the back. I am rubbing and wanted to go with wider axles. If I started with the g2 would I be able top run a dana 60 1 ton conversion in the back? Or a dynatrac 60?

Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Old 10-19-2017 | 10:43 AM
  #2  
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From: Lexington Park, MD
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Originally Posted by jku_13
Hey whats up guys. Think Im finally gonna pull the trigger on some axles. Right now Im running a stock dana 30 in the front and a 44 in the back. I have coilovers and bypasses in the front and coilovers in the back.

Heres my dilemma:
I want this thing to be pretty bullet proof but can't afford 12k to ideally do prorock 60s in the front and back

I found a brand new g2 44 core housing that I really want to buy. The concerns Im having is that it is stock width. Does this mean I'd have to keep stock width in the back. I am rubbing and wanted to go with wider axles. If I started with the g2 would I be able top run a dana 60 1 ton conversion in the back? Or a dynatrac 60?

Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Bullet proof means a lot of different things to a lot of different people. What size tires are you running? How hard do you wheel? If you are already rubbing in the back, I'm guessing you are running pretty big and wide tires. I apologize if you have these details in your profile... I didn't look.

Anyhow, I don't mean for this to come off sounding like an advertisement, but I do have a good suggestion as a solution. Look into Fusion 4x4 and their Hybrid 60/44 front and semifloat 60 rear option. They can make those in custom widths and will give you *almost* the strength of 60s at well below that $12k price tag you mentioned for Dynatrac. And the cool thing about the Hybrid front axle is that is uses JK outers (this means you don't have to change your wheels!).

But back to answering your actual questions. Yes, you can do a 44 in the front and a 60 in the rear, but only a semifloat 60. Because full float 60s will require you to change your bolt pattern on your wheels (and so if you did FF in the rear but a 44 in the front, you'll have different wheels). As far as width goes, in general you want your front to be slightly wider than the rear. I can't recall the details of this, but you either want them matched, or the front like 1" wider. Don't do wider in the rear.
Old 10-19-2017 | 05:13 PM
  #3  
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Don't cheap out and buy a bargain you are going to regret. You want the wider axles and for a good reason.
Old 10-19-2017 | 06:24 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by jku_13
Hey whats up guys. Think Im finally gonna pull the trigger on some axles. Right now Im running a stock dana 30 in the front and a 44 in the back. I have coilovers and bypasses in the front and coilovers in the back.

Heres my dilemma:
I want this thing to be pretty bullet proof but can't afford 12k to ideally do prorock 60s in the front and back

I found a brand new g2 44 core housing that I really want to buy. The concerns Im having is that it is stock width. Does this mean I'd have to keep stock width in the back. I am rubbing and wanted to go with wider axles. If I started with the g2 would I be able top run a dana 60 1 ton conversion in the back? Or a dynatrac 60?

Any help is appreciated
Thanks
What kind of wheeling do you plan on doing? Give us a call 714-421-4314 so we can talk to you about this, take the guesswork out of the cost and see what would be the best way to go for you and your budget. Doesn't cost anything to talk, and it will be invaluable as you figure out exactly what you want to do, and what it will cost to do it.
Old 10-20-2017 | 09:44 AM
  #5  
jku_13's Avatar
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Joined: May 2016
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
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Originally Posted by PsychoCupcake
Bullet proof means a lot of different things to a lot of different people. What size tires are you running? How hard do you wheel? If you are already rubbing in the back, I'm guessing you are running pretty big and wide tires. I apologize if you have these details in your profile... I didn't look.

Anyhow, I don't mean for this to come off sounding like an advertisement, but I do have a good suggestion as a solution. Look into Fusion 4x4 and their Hybrid 60/44 front and semifloat 60 rear option. They can make those in custom widths and will give you *almost* the strength of 60s at well below that $12k price tag you mentioned for Dynatrac. And the cool thing about the Hybrid front axle is that is uses JK outers (this means you don't have to change your wheels!).

But back to answering your actual questions. Yes, you can do a 44 in the front and a 60 in the rear, but only a semifloat 60. Because full float 60s will require you to change your bolt pattern on your wheels (and so if you did FF in the rear but a 44 in the front, you'll have different wheels). As far as width goes, in general you want your front to be slightly wider than the rear. I can't recall the details of this, but you either want them matched, or the front like 1" wider. Don't do wider in the rear.

Thanks for the info. I have an evo long arm kit and I'm running 37s. Not looking to go bigger tires but want to be able to wheel pretty hard. More prerunning and trails but also starting to get into crawling. Right now I have stock power and probably not gonna do much for a while.
Looking more into this I don't think stock width axles are gonna work as it already rubs.
As much as I wanted to pull the trigger on that g2 front axle I think Im gonna have to pass.

I have looked into 1 tons in the past and really think if i could get them built right it would be the best option. Plus correct me if I'm wrong but with the arctic truss I can have my arms mounted to the top and get some more travel
Old 10-21-2017 | 06:12 AM
  #6  
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From: Southwest Reno, NV
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Nt sure what you mean by travel but the control arm placement should not affect the travel. Thats shock length and tire clearance (bump stop)




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