questions on 2.5'' teraflex coil lift
11-13-2009, 01:43 PM
#1
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questions on 2.5'' teraflex coil lift
I am looking into the 2.5'' teraflex coil lift.
I want to run 35's but i do not want any rubbing so i was going to
add a 1'' M.O.R.E. body lift just in case..
i know i dont have to worry about driveshaft modifications with the 2.5'' lift but will the added body lift need me to get new drive shafts??
and with the 2.5'' the kit does not come with control arms,
is it a good idea to get them??
thanks in advance,
zach
I want to run 35's but i do not want any rubbing so i was going to
add a 1'' M.O.R.E. body lift just in case..
i know i dont have to worry about driveshaft modifications with the 2.5'' lift but will the added body lift need me to get new drive shafts??
and with the 2.5'' the kit does not come with control arms,
is it a good idea to get them??
thanks in advance,
zach
11-13-2009, 01:51 PM
#2
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You'll get over 3" of lift with that kit. Drive it and decide for yourself, but my opinion is that you will want to adjust the caster.
The body lift will not affect the need for driveshafts. But, don't assume that you will not need new shafts. You'll see posts from people with 2" BB's that needed them. Wheelbase, lift height, transmission type, disconnects, where and how you drive, etc. Too many variables for anyone to tell you that you will or won't need new driveshafts...
The body lift will not affect the need for driveshafts. But, don't assume that you will not need new shafts. You'll see posts from people with 2" BB's that needed them. Wheelbase, lift height, transmission type, disconnects, where and how you drive, etc. Too many variables for anyone to tell you that you will or won't need new driveshafts...
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
A: At bare minimum, you should have a set of 3" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, rear brake line extension brackets, new longer rear sway bar links (factory links can be installed up front), adjustable front track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. Optimally, I would recommend adjustable front upper and lower control arms as well as they will help you set your caster to the appropriate angle it needs to be. Also, if you have a 2-door, adjustable rear upper control arms and a new double cardin U-joint style drive shaft would be highly advisable.
A: At bare minimum, you should have a set of 3" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, rear brake line extension brackets, new longer rear sway bar links (factory links can be installed up front), adjustable front track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. Optimally, I would recommend adjustable front upper and lower control arms as well as they will help you set your caster to the appropriate angle it needs to be. Also, if you have a 2-door, adjustable rear upper control arms and a new double cardin U-joint style drive shaft would be highly advisable.
11-13-2009, 02:07 PM
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You don't need the additional BL to run 35" tires and I wouldn't recommend it. The TF 2.5" coil lift should give you enough tire clearance unless you add much more weight like a winch or heavy tire carrier bumper. You shouldn't need new driveshafts and front lower control arms can be added later if the handling is a little flighty.
11-14-2009, 04:28 AM
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I'm running the 2.5" TF budget boost lift with 35s and Pro Comp wheels with slightly more than 4.5" of backspacing and the only rubbing I get is in reverse with the steering cranked all the way. Very minor and something I can avoid by learning to steer slightly less. My lift ended up being exactly 2.5", with 3" I'm sure you'd be fine. Like they said above though, get the lift and tires first, if there is rubbing and it bothers you just throw in the body spacers, but it probably won't be necessary.
11-14-2009, 01:23 PM
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Mine is a 2-door and I've run it for 25,000 miles on the TF 2.5" lift with the stock shock extenders and 315/70R-17 MTZs. Had factory wheels with 1.5" spacers until very recently with no rubbing. 17X8 soft 8s with 4.5" BS on there now give me just a little more clearance on the inside. Only place it ever rubbed was at the rear of the factory rock sliders and only when flexed. Never saw any point in doing anything about it (it was barely touching) and never had a problem. Ran trails all over Moab and Colorado for 3 years with this setup - love it.
Added the Powerplant and Hanson bumper and replaced the front springs with takeoffs from a 4-door Rubicon and got about 3/4" more lift up front. Never a problem with rubbing. Definitely no need for a body lift with 35s.
Still running stock shafts too...imagine I'm on borrowed time in the rear, but I'm going to run it til it fails that way Mama won't fuss over the $$ for the replacement! No adjustable arms either - would be better with them as it tends to follow low areas (like from heavy trucks) especially when braking. Not unsafe, but I think getting the caster back a little would stop that. I'm just used to it now - guess it's got me trained.
Added the Powerplant and Hanson bumper and replaced the front springs with takeoffs from a 4-door Rubicon and got about 3/4" more lift up front. Never a problem with rubbing. Definitely no need for a body lift with 35s.
Still running stock shafts too...imagine I'm on borrowed time in the rear, but I'm going to run it til it fails that way Mama won't fuss over the $$ for the replacement! No adjustable arms either - would be better with them as it tends to follow low areas (like from heavy trucks) especially when braking. Not unsafe, but I think getting the caster back a little would stop that. I'm just used to it now - guess it's got me trained.