Question to all who have installed the 2.5 RK Max travel kit...
#1
Question to all who have installed the 2.5 RK Max travel kit...
I, along with my two cousins(one is a mechanic), are going to be installing this lift on my '13 JKUR next weekend. Just wanted to get some feedback on how long it took people to put this on their jeeps. How many of you were there? Did you use any special tools(air tools, spring compressor, brake bleeder kit, etc,etc). Any input is appreciated, thanks!!
#2
Congrats on getting that lift under there!!!! You should be able to get that under in a few hours. Just make sure to measure the control arm lengths correctly and it should be fairly smooth. We always use air tools on all of the control hardware, you want to make sure they are tight so you don't end up with any issues. You won't need any spring compressors because you can drop the axle far enough away that the springs will slide in and slide out. You will definitely need a brake bleeder since the brake lines are being changed.
One tip is to lock the control arms in a vise and give that jam nut as much as you all have. You should use loctite on the jam nuts as well.
I would say working leisurely you can have that kit installed in a few hours.
If you have any questions or issues with any of it feel free to reach out to us.
Oh and one last thing, remember to take pictures of the before and after product!
One tip is to lock the control arms in a vise and give that jam nut as much as you all have. You should use loctite on the jam nuts as well.
I would say working leisurely you can have that kit installed in a few hours.
If you have any questions or issues with any of it feel free to reach out to us.
Oh and one last thing, remember to take pictures of the before and after product!
#3
Regarding the brake lines, the JKs are a little sensitive. You really want to avoid air getting in the lines. If it gets to the ABS unit, it's a mess. Do one at a time. Disconnect the rubber brake line from the hard line first and have someone plug it with a finger so the fluid doesn't leak out. Put new line on caliper. Open bleed valve (have bleeder kit on) and use a syringe (medicine dropper type, not a dirty needle) and fill the line with fluid. Close bleeder valve. Reconnect to hard line while limiting fluid loss.
Do all four and bleed as normal. Should be all good with no squishy brakes.
Use a torque wrench for all bolts. You should really own one, but if you don't want to pay the money, you can borrow from most auto parts stores.
Lastly, be safe. Use proper jack stands, etc.
Do all four and bleed as normal. Should be all good with no squishy brakes.
Use a torque wrench for all bolts. You should really own one, but if you don't want to pay the money, you can borrow from most auto parts stores.
Lastly, be safe. Use proper jack stands, etc.
#4
Regarding the brake lines, the JKs are a little sensitive. You really want to avoid air getting in the lines. If it gets to the ABS unit, it's a mess. Do one at a time. Disconnect the rubber brake line from the hard line first and have someone plug it with a finger so the fluid doesn't leak out. Put new line on caliper. Open bleed valve (have bleeder kit on) and use a syringe (medicine dropper type, not a dirty needle) and fill the line with fluid. Close bleeder valve. Reconnect to hard line while limiting fluid loss.
Do all four and bleed as normal. Should be all good with no squishy brakes.
Use a torque wrench for all bolts. You should really own one, but if you don't want to pay the money, you can borrow from most auto parts stores.
Lastly, be safe. Use proper jack stands, etc.
Do all four and bleed as normal. Should be all good with no squishy brakes.
Use a torque wrench for all bolts. You should really own one, but if you don't want to pay the money, you can borrow from most auto parts stores.
Lastly, be safe. Use proper jack stands, etc.
#5
I have had my entire brake system off and air in everything on multiple occasions. There is no magic to bleeding the JK, just takes several times to get it all out. Pedal is firm and and works fine.
#6
If I'm just completely off base about how the ABS system works, someone please let me know. Also, sorry to the OP for getting this thread off topic...
#7
Congrats on getting that lift under there!!!! You should be able to get that under in a few hours. Just make sure to measure the control arm lengths correctly and it should be fairly smooth. We always use air tools on all of the control hardware, you want to make sure they are tight so you don't end up with any issues. You won't need any spring compressors because you can drop the axle far enough away that the springs will slide in and slide out. You will definitely need a brake bleeder since the brake lines are being changed.
One tip is to lock the control arms in a vise and give that jam nut as much as you all have. You should use loctite on the jam nuts as well.
I would say working leisurely you can have that kit installed in a few hours.
If you have any questions or issues with any of it feel free to reach out to us.
Oh and one last thing, remember to take pictures of the before and after product!
One tip is to lock the control arms in a vise and give that jam nut as much as you all have. You should use loctite on the jam nuts as well.
I would say working leisurely you can have that kit installed in a few hours.
If you have any questions or issues with any of it feel free to reach out to us.
Oh and one last thing, remember to take pictures of the before and after product!
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#8
I'm pretty sure this won't do anything for getting air out of the ABS system. Unless I'm mistaken about how it works, the valves should be open by default. When you activate the ABS it rapidly closes and opens the valves to pulse the brakes. Any air in the system should be able to be pushed out by pressure bleeding the entire system from the top.
If I'm just completely off base about how the ABS system works, someone please let me know. Also, sorry to the OP for getting this thread off topic...
If I'm just completely off base about how the ABS system works, someone please let me know. Also, sorry to the OP for getting this thread off topic...
#9
My buddy and I did my JKR. It took a little more than one day. If we had done it again after that first one, it would have taken less than 4 hours. Not very difficult. Neither of us are mechanics, just normal guys.
#10
There are some member lift install writeups up in the writeups area. (there is an index stuck to the top. If the links are still broke, just scroll down.) Even with some minor component differences between mfg's, all the lifts go on pretty much the same way, so any of the writeups would be good to look through before you start. And there are always people here to answer any questions you come up with mid-install.
Just take your time and do it right, rather than watch the clock...
Just take your time and do it right, rather than watch the clock...