jsmoriss

That's really excellent -- if I had known this a few months ago when I installed the tire carrier, I would have recognized the problem immediately. Instead I had to figure out something was wrong after I'd re-tightened the carrier several times. I expect there are others with missing races, so your diagram will probably help if/when they find this thread.

Thanks,
js.

RAZORBACK

I also installed a rear tire carrier from Expedition One a couple of months ago. The directions were sub par (need more pictures of the bearings installed properly) however James answered all of my questions and Sarah shipped out the missing parts promptly. I did not realize I too was missing the top and bottom race until reading this thread. but I'm sure they will take care of it.

still the best looking rear bumper/tire carrier system out there imho.

glwood6

Sorry to revive this thread, but in fairness to Expedition One, I needed to let folks know that they resolved the issue I had with the connecting coupling as soon as possible and shipped the part to me. This was not related to the bearings, but had to do with the coupler between the tailgate and tire carrier. They mfg'd a new part and sent it to me. I've been out of town, so I haven't had a chance to put it on yet, but I let EO know that I would notify folks on here that they do in fact care about fixing any and all issues, and will make things right.

High Desert Drifter

Hey fellas...I"m going to bat for Sarah and James !
I have there front and rear trail series bumpers/with tire carrier, and quality and service is second to none in my opinion! I received a tire carrier with the top bearing race missing and noticed it right away and did not install it on the spindle. But I"ve been working on cars and bikes since I was a youngster. The carrier and bearings assemble on the spindle just like a front wheel rotor on a front spindle on a car. It"s not rocket science. So I called James and Sarah about the issue, and was told they had a few call ins about the same problem.
The bearing races WERE installed in the carrier prior to goin to the powder-coating facility. As you know, the parts are heated to a high temperature in big oven, in the powder-coating process. Metal expands at different rates from the
distance of heat source....and unknown to everyone involved...the bearing races fell out to the bottom of the oven. So NOW the races are installed AFTER
the parts get back from the powder-coating facility. After a nice conversation with Sarah and James, I was sent a bearing race next day-air. Got the race the very next day...threw it in the ice box for a day, to contract it, next day, used a heat gun on the spindle housing where the top race gos and it damn
near falls right in place. Take a punch and small hammer and cross tap it and seat in. Now here is a little tip in adjusting the tire carrier and the tail-gate. You must match the tire carrier swing to the tail-gate swing so the coupling does not bind through the complete swing of the tail-gate. The tail-gate swings at an angle so the carrier must match the swing to the gate.
I was informed that there will be revised instructions for the rear bumper and tire carrier. For me personally it wasn't that big of a deal to install the front and rear bumpers and tire carrier. But like I said before, I'm sort of a backyard engineer and fabricator and I have been working on vehicles for a long time, but I understand some of you aren't so I don't mean to offend anyone's abilities to install such accessories. Just trying to help.
I am completely satisfied with Sarah and James' mechanical and engineering capabilities in building such fine products from Expedition One Off-Road Research and Equipment.

glwood6

Although I think I've pretty much figured out the tailgate/tire swing thing, 'cause mine works ok, I am curious how you 'matched the carrier swing to the tail-gate swing'...what was your method of matching those together? I'm hoping the revised instructions have a little more to say on that, it was kind of vague...

High Desert Drifter

Okay. With the rear bumper attached to the frame of the Jeep, the bolts being lightly snugged down, with the tire carrier on and the rear coupling plate mounted to the tail-gate. Mount the coupling to the rear coupling plate that is on the tail-gate. Swing the tire carrier into the carrier bump stop. Adjust the coupling to the carrier with the tail-gate half latched on, so the carrier is snug against the rubber bump stop on the tail-gate. Now what I did to match the swing of the tail-gate to the carrier is I took the bolt out of the coupling on the carrier side. And what I did was I unlatched the tail-gate and slowly swung the tail-gate out as I manually by hand held the coupler into position on the carrier side and watched as the tail-gate swung so the coupler stayed snug on the bottom flange of the carrier's coupling attachment where the bolt goes through. And when it swings, if the coupling starts to raise too high or too low from the bottom flange of the carrier's coupling attachment point that's when you release by hand and separate the carrier from the coupling and swing the carrier out to 90 degrees of the bumper and lift up or push down as needed to match the swing of the tail-gate and the carrier that's why you need to have the bumper bolts snug and tight enough so it will stay in the position that you have adjusted it to. You must check the coupler to carrier position through the full swing of the tail-gate and carrier to make sure there is no binding. It might take a few swings to get it right and once you are satisified that there is very little binding on the tail-gate and carrier through the full swing then tighten up all the bolts on the bumper. Hook the coupling and the carrier together with the bolt and the flat washers for spacers, lightly snug it up and then do the full swing of the tire carrier and the tail-gate to make sure everything not binding, it should be snug as you open the door and there will be slight resistance of the total swing of the door and carrier assembly, which is normal, which before the tail-gate swung into you freely with the stock set up. As you fully close the tail-gate the tire carrier should be drawed up snug on the rubber bump stop. That is why when you are first adjusting the coupling you adjusted it with the tail-gate half latched so when it is fully closed it pulls the carrier into the bump stop snug. I think that is about it, I hope this helps.

jeepnag

But that guy Jason at RedRock is a real jackass! [/rolls eyes]

SaginawMike

I'm glad things seem to be working out.

Has Expedition One found the root cause yet?

From what I see either the race wasn't installed or it fell out at some point.
I assume the two races come installed into the hub. There should be an interference fit to the hub. If not the outer races will fall out during handling before installation. They need to be pressed into the hub. If the races just slip into the hub the bore has been machined oversized and the bearing will never fit right.

An improper fit may allow the bearing to creep on the shaft or in the hub. Creep is defined as the inner ring slipping on the shaft or the outer ring slipping in the housing. This occurs when the interference fit is not sufficient for the operating conditions. As a result, creep can cause wear, ring fracture and excessive vibration. (rattle)

High Desert Drifter

Yes the races are pressed in, but like I said during the powder-coating process,there is a external heat source that raise the temperature up just enough to expand the housing on the carrier that slides over the spindle,that the race fell out during the handling inside the oven. I still had to tap the race in about 3/16"s of IN.( after I heated up the carrier spindle housing, a big industrial oven can heat a big chunk of steel a whole lot better than my little ole heat gun) to bottom it out. Now the races are pressed in AFTER the parts come back back from the powder-coating facility. Once everything is assembled
right and snug down, it works like it was designed for. Remember the tail-gate
only swings about 95 degrees, its not a like a wheel bearing where it must with stand high RPM"s, even though the bearings are Timken Tapered Roller design, believe me the spindle and bearing/races are stout enough to handle the load. ( Designed for up to a 40 IN. tire and wheel )

SaginawMike

Good work!